I'm doing a hickory backed osage board longbow. How much reflex is recommended and how far down the limb should I start? Should I heat temper it?
Jim, on the hickory backed osage bows I built I put in about 3"- 3 1/2" of reflex from handle to tip. I pre tillered the osage first so it would bend in a nice even bend so after glue up I had a nice even bend to the bow. I usually ended up with about 1" of reflex or flat after shot in. If you try to add much more reflex you'll usually end up with more set.
Pat, did you tiller the osage before adding the hickory?
Jim, how wide is your osage bow?
Stan
1 3/4"
How much if I was using boo?
Jim, You can do 1 3/8" from the fades out 6" to 8" on osage with a hickory backing. Taper from there to 1/2" tips for now. When everything is lined up, reduce to 3/8" or less. What length are you working with and what is your draw length?
Stan, I tillered it to bend evenly but not a final tiller for bend and weight. I guess you can get the same effect by tapering the belly with a band saw first. I prefer to use a rasp and scraper.
28" draw and 64" ntn. Would like 50lbs @28"
Perfect. You will love the way it shoots. Make it 1 3/8" wide at the fades and out 6"to 8" then taper to the tips. You could go more than 50# if you wanted.
Jim, can I ask where you got your osage board? I have some hickory backing and would like to use it up.
Thanks Pat.
Osage, I use a sawmill in Salina Oklahoma that specializes in hardwoods found here in Oklahoma. It is called Grandriver Hardwoods. He's not doing any internet business for a while but I could go up there and pick you out a board on any Friday if you want.
Thanks, Pat. Good luck, Jim. Sounds like we're working on a similar project.
Stan
If you try to add much more reflex you'll usually end up with more set.
Why is that Pat?
Roy, it over stresses the wood. You are stretching the backing and compression the belly just to bring the bow to a flat profile and even more getting to brace. So by the time you get it to full draw the wood is really stressed and, because it is a natural material it has limits. For a typical hunting weight bow it is not necessary to add more reflex.You will get better performance from the proper design for the woods used and good tillering.
With a lot of reflex the stave is unstable to work on too. The sideways leverage can lead to twisting and adds an uncertain element to early tillering.
Ok thanks Pat.
Jim, How's this osage bow coming along. Mine bit the dust. I'm hoping your's made a bow.
Stan
Haven't had time to work on it really. Too damn hot too!
I do have it roughly shaped but need to get it to floor tiller stage.
Ok... I just had to suck it up and work on this bow. It's not as hot as it has been.
I have it to a heavy floor tiller now and the tips tapered down to about 1/2".
I roughed it in with a bandsaw, then went to the belt sander, then to the disk sander to even the belly out.
Now to the scraper.
Looks like this bow is going to be a good shooter. Osage never ceases to amaze me with its strength and flexibility.
I screwed one tip up filing the string nocks so I lost an inch off that limb. It was an inch longer before so now both limbs are the same length.
I have it pulling 40 @ 20" I'll get some pics posted tonight. Here are the pics.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v42/keyman/CIMG1715.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v42/keyman/CIMG1716.jpg)