Ive recently switched to 3 fingers under. Im real happy with the results. Anyone shoot selfbows like this? Any advice for tillering a selfbow to shoot 3 under? Id imagine its alot harder on the lower limb and it will need to be left stiffer. Right?
Make the lower limb 1" shorter.
Donald
Yes I shoot 3 under with my selfbows. As far as tillering them any different, I havn't. Should I? maybe but I just tune them until they shoot good and keep shooting and don't worry about it. But that's just me.
David
When I tiller a selfbow for a 3 under shooter I start with dead even limbs and may go to 1/8" positive on the top limb if the bow is a little shocky.
QuoteOriginally posted by Osagetree:
Make the lower limb 1" shorter.
I recently started doing this for 3 under, actually 1.5" shorter, and am pleased with the results. The only down side is its nice to have the option of changing top and bottom limbs when done.
I shoot 3 under. Most of my bows have a 1-1.5" longer upper limb. I tiller all bows by placing the hook at the center of the string.
John S.,
"I tiller all bows by placing the hook at the center of the string."
I've read where you've been involved with at least one of Dean Torges' performance critiques in the past. What are your thoughts on his tillering practice of placing the handle and tillering string at the point where the bow hand and drawing fingers are normally found when shooting a bow? In your mind is there enough merrit to set up a build this way or is it too much trouble for the average bow builder for the results?
Just curious.
BTW, I've tried the off set tillering method but like you gravitate toward the center string hook, too.
I pretty much do that. My goal is to make the center of the bow and the center of the string the place where my bow hand and middle finger of my string hand contact. It can't be perfect but it is what I aspire to. That being said, the tiller tree is only the beginning. In the end I final tiller in the hand, shoot a bow in and find the sweet spot. Then check tiller on the tree or wit a photo again.
Adjust and balance your goals. It's not a science, it's an art.
i shoot split finger, and when i built my sisters bow i designed it asymetrically so the top limb is an inch longer than the bottom one. the neck of the grip and where you nock the arrow are about dead center of the bow, with the arrow pass being just about 1 inch above that. its the closest ive been able to get to the arrow being truly centered, and the bow was absolutely the best shooter i made so far. i think this design ultimately allows the bottom limb to have more working area than the traditional layout, as you are gripping less of the lower limb in the end.