I'm going to try to apply snake skins to my sons bow and after reading as many threads on the subject as I can find I still have some questions.( Its going to be tuff to take sand paper to his bow :^)Any way I cant seem to find the spray varithane I read about and was wondering if a good spray polyurathane is as good or a Spar urathane.Whats the difference and how does a spray,or brushed on protectent for that matter, not crack or seperate when the limb is extended and flexed?
Thanks for any advise you can give.
Tom
Spar urathane is what I have used on selfbows.
Why does it not crack??? Another archers parodox as far as I'm concerned.
Spar Varnish or Spar Urethane is a long oil varnish.
So it has a higher oil content then a pure polyurethane. This is partly why it takes longer to cure, and is techinically a softer finish then a pure poly finish.
The oil and the softness is a win in a bow since it leaves if flexible. If the finish is too hard then it would just crack. This is what happens with some of the new hardwood floor finishes they use in factories. They are UV cure finishes and are hard as nails, but don't take a hit very well. So if you drop something hard enough, the wood will dent and the finish will crack.
The finish is there to keep the wood from beind exposed to the elements and allow you to keep it clean, beyond that its all just about pretty.
I have used tru oil over snake skins. I have also used the spar urethane over them. They both turned out good, the tru oil had more of a shine.
A quick shot of satin poly over the Tru-Oil will cut the shine. I do this on all my hunting bows.
Thanks all,really. So If I want more of a gloss finnish true oil and steel wool several coats?
pm sent
Bob; Thank you very much for the detailed instructions. Now when I get up the nerve to sand the finnish, I will begin.
I did 3 this past weekend...just do it and have fun. :)
Bob