I have been surfacing the bottom side of forms with formica A'la Bingham. Was curious about any other options that some of you have tried. The formica works great, but it seems like there may be some other more readily available options.
Any thoughts on this?
Ive used a thin strip of hickory on several of my forms...thats probably the easiest and cheapest route. But also a strip of alluminum, fiberglass or even a strip of rubber works great as well.
I use a piece of bow glass on mine.
The guy who let me use his form (R/D longbow) had a thin strip of aluminum on his. Worked well for me.
Jeremy
I have built hundreds of bows on forms with aluminum strips and really like them. Much easier to keep clean.
Only problem is that they must be taped in place. I havn't found a glue that will hold them down. Still not a big problem. Use the 1/8" and it will span across any washboarding or small inperfections in the form.
bigjim
On most of my bows, which are straight longbows, I use forms made from aluminum channel mounted on clear fir. These forms have been fantastic, making 20 bows now and still in perfect condition. However, I occasionally use 1 3/4" glass and they don't make 1 3/4" channel, so I had a piece of 2" x 1/4" alum strap cut down to 1 3/4 and just mounted it on top of the plank, using inset screws with the holes filled with bondo. Works really great. I'm about ready to try shaping a new form that won't be dead flat in order to try more string follow and will just use the alum strap approach. Anyone interested in seeing my forms and how I went about building them can check them out at:
http://oldpharttsarchery.com/bowbuilding/buidlingform/buildingform.html
Looks like a trip to lowes is in order!
Thanks guys
I have black fiberglass on my 2 forms.
I used a spray on adhesive 3M "High Strenth 90" to glue the glass to my wood forms, it says it's heat resistant on the label..
Big Jim, I wonder if 3M 5200 marine sealant would hold up to the heat? I have used it to "glue" aluminum to fiberglass boats..the 3M 90 may work too..
Smooth-on would work wouldn't it? You guys may not have any though cause it's a glass lam bow thing. As far as I know most of the epoxies will bond metal to wood.
wouldn't the smooth on let loose at bow cooking temps? I know it will have alot of pressure on it and perhaps side washers.. I have 5 bows off of one form and the glass has not moved. but I have been cooking at 165-170 degrees not 180 degrees. So far the "3M high strength 90" heat resistant spray adhesive is holding the 040 glass on my recurve form, I used 050 glass on my R/D longbow form.
I can see where the aluminum would make a great surface to glue bows on and Big Jims experiance is extensive and his bows show it.
I think KennyM gets his plywood forms so perfect that he dosen't use anything.
I think Jims alum. strip would be great for taking whoop de doos out!
My forms only get 1 or 2 built before testing another idea sometimes tho,so I keep any added work to a minimum! Plus I only make 4 or 5 bows most years.
When I make a form template,I bend a metal yardstick or thick glass around the curves to check for bumps and dips before routing the form.
I work at a plastic extrusion factory and have used line trim from there with good results. I have used thicknesses from .040-.125 mil. The thinner stuff really works great