i really like the looks of these tyoe of bows. i was wondering how is there performance and such .
thanks
Dustin Parker
anyone?
I have not personally made one, although i want to. i would assume the performance is good. as it would be similar to the pyramid bows that i have made so far... i have found that if a bow is wide enough not to take set, but the tips are light, that i have generally had good performance. I haven't heat treated yet, but i bought a heat gun and think it would increase a white wood holmegard.
Any idea how short this design can be made, if from hickory, white oak, osage, or if bamboo backed?
I have one that I bought because I liked the looks and it is rattler backed however it is the slowest of the bows that I have, but I like to shoot it anyway. Speed isn't every thing.
thanks guys. does any have any pictures
This is mine. (http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx67/fixer_02/holmgarrd/archery01104.jpg)
another. (http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx67/fixer_02/holmgarrd/archery01105.jpg)
One more. (http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx67/fixer_02/holmgarrd/archery01106.jpg)
wow that is nice did you make it or buy it from another maker
I purchased it from a guy off of stickbow, then I redid the grip and put on an antler arrow rest as I didn't care for shooting off my hand. The bow is upside down so you can see the arrow rest on the lower left side if you look real close.
More pictures before I purchased. (http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx67/fixer_02/holmgarrd/holmgaard.jpg). (http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx67/fixer_02/holmgarrd/holmgaard3.jpg). (http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx67/fixer_02/holmgarrd/holmgaard4.jpg). (http://i742.photobucket.com/albums/xx67/fixer_02/holmgarrd/holmgaard2.jpg). Better view of limbs.
is there a tried and true formula? outter one third of the limb is static? what if the tips were longer, less mass at the end, more work at the fade?
Loren, here you go:
http://www.fiarc.org/public/Forum/Data/jeval/2005102714414_Tillering%20the%20Holmegaard%20Bow-2.pdf
fixer, I can see right away why that bow is a dog... way too much mass in the outer limbs. You only really need to add a little bit of thickness at the transition to keep the limbs static.
Jeremy;
You are likely correct there is a lot of mass out there. As it was purchased mainly as a collection or display bow I was not going to try to modify it, maybe some day if I get the urge to shave it and refinish it would be interesting to see how much it would improve the performance.
QuoteOriginally posted by Jeremy:
Loren, here you go:
http://www.fiarc.org/public/Forum/Data/jeval/2005102714414_Tillering%20the%20Holmegaard%20Bow-2.pdf
fixer, I can see right away why that bow is a dog... way too much mass in the outer limbs. You only really need to add a little bit of thickness at the transition to keep the limbs static.
So really, when doing one of these, you want to take off just enough material to where the outer limbs stay stiff? No more and no less?
bc, yup. "Dutchwarbow" did I nice one last year and he put up a real grat pic.
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=001621
here's another
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=003192#000000
he probably could have scraped the tips down a little thinner, but it's a sweet looking bow
QuoteSo really, when doing one of these, you want to take off just enough material to where the outer limbs stay stiff? No more and no less?
If you let the outer limbs bend a litle, you get a faster and better bow.