Here is the start of a bow build for Oliver Stacy. She will be my Cumberland straight longbow model. She will have an ebony riser with an osage canine accent. Josh supplied the osage. Here are the riser pieces laid out.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-14-10-1.jpg)
Notice my plexiglass template. This is mainly used to lay out how I want my accents.
Next I find the grain on each piece so that I layout the riser for the most strength. Notice how I draw lines on the cut end so that I can tell at a glance the grain is proper. The grain is really hard to see in the ebony. Then I cut each piece down to just over 1 1/2" wide. I want them the same width when I start to laminate them together. The thin piece will be used for accents behind the riser and on the tips.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-14-10-2.jpg)
I then cut my arch on the osage and sand it close to the line.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-14-10-4.jpg)
Then I trace the osage to the ebony and cut it outside the line.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-14-10-6.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-14-10-7.jpg)
Next is a lot of fitting until no light shines between the pieces. Tomorrow you will see the next laminating step.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-14-10-8.jpg)
Thanks Apex, I have been wanting to attempt my first laminated riser and may just do it now.
It's posts like these that gave me the confidence to give it a go to glue up a riser block. I really appreciate your openness, Marty, as well as all the other men, who share your work in these pictorials. As soon as I get a little farther along in the finishing details I will post some pictures of a bow you and all the others on here have helped to inspire.
I'll check back in, tomorrow, for more of this exciting episode.
COOL........as always!!!!
Oh man is this going to be good!
Can't wait to see it all come together!
Josh
:thumbsup: :campfire:
Looking good. Nice choices Josh.
Ebony and Osage = :thumbsup:
Sure is beautiful wood. Never priced some of these exotics-how much do they run? Thanks
Jeremy
I bought this ebony from Gilmer Woods. The piece was roughly 2X2X24 and cost about $65 with shipping. That is figuring 1/3 of total shipping, cause I bought three different pieces in the order. Their minimum is $100.
I have to go do some more work on her, but will update in a couple of hours.
Here I am using my plexiglass pattern to see how the canine accent will look.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-15-10-1.jpg)
Off to the bandsaw! I use this sander to take her to the line that I drew.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-15-10-2.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-15-10-3.jpg)
Glue lines look fabulous!
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-15-10-5.jpg)
Now I use my riser to draw a line on the cut-out piece of ebony. After the first test fitting I can see some high spots. I mark them like this and take it to the sander again. Lots of back and forth fitting and sanding here.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-15-10-6.jpg)
I have the pieces fitting well, so now I lay my template back on top to see how everything is gonna look.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-15-10-7.jpg)
Time for the second laminating stage for the riser!
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-15-10-8.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-15-10-9.jpg)
150 degrees for four hours ought to do it! Stay tuned!
QuoteOriginally posted by Apex Predator:
]
Glue lines look fabulous!
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-15-10-5.jpg)
:notworthy: :eek: :notworthy:
That joint is a work of art! Seriously, I'd have that over the fireplace just to look at. AWESOME attention to detail! :notworthy:
apex you never sease to amaze me...this is just absolutely beauty in the making! good work here
This thing is going to look amazing!
WOW I can't wait to send some arrows down range!
Josh
Yep... :wavey:
This morning I started by sanding all the glue boogers off the sides of the riser. Then I layed out the riser with my template again.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-16-10-1.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-16-10-2.jpg)
Now it's off to the bandsaw!
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-16-10-3.jpg)
Then it's time to sand the fades. I start with the belt attachment on my combo sander, since it has 50 grit paper, then move on the the spindle attachment for finer work. The Rigid combo unit is the most used piece of equipment in my shop! For $200 it's a must have for the serious hobbiest or amatuer bowyer.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-16-10-4.jpg)
Notice the piece it's attached to. It's square to the sander and has an aluminum surface. This backing piece allows me to get the end of the fades super thin.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-16-10-5.jpg)
A little hand sanding at the very ends, and it is ready for glue-up! The riser will stay on this sanding block until ready to lay-up the bow. This will protect the very fragile fade-out ends.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-16-10-6.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-16-10-7.jpg)
Thanks Marty. I really enjoy your build alongs.
The contrast of the ebony and osage is excellent. And as always, the build is clean and precise. Looking forward to seeing those limbs.
Wow great lookin riser Marty
Very nice work! Thanks for sharing your methods and jigs. The riser and fades are top notch!
Nice idea with the aluminum strip. I am going to encorporate that on mine. That ridgid is a sweet little tool for sure.
I have a grin that looks a lot like this:
(http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/oliverstacy/Smile.jpg)
That is the contrast that I was hoping for...very well done Marty!
Wait to you see the limbs!
Josh
looks great :thumbsup:
That is looking great.
That is a great idea how you do your fades, I like the rigid sander combo can you get that at lowes/homedepot?
nice looking riser, can't wait to see more of this build.
Yes Bob, Home Depot has them for $200.
That is beautiful! The detail and methods used are impressive.
Very cool! I love your color choices!
Keep the pictures coming...
This morning it's time to start on prepping the lams. Here they are all layed out. The cherry is awesome! It will darken and the grain will pop when under the glass. I start by carefully measuring each lam at the fat end. These are always very close to what I ordered, if not exactly. I record all the data in my book for future reference.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-17-10-1.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-17-10-2.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-17-10-3.jpg)
I then sand the ends of both lams together so that I can join them into one lam. This is for all except the belly lam, which will stay in two pieces.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-17-10-4.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-17-10-5.jpg)
When I flip the top one over it should mate to the first one.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-17-10-6.jpg)
I've drawn lines on my bench to use as guides to make sure I glue them together parallel.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-17-10-7.jpg)
I use a quality CA gel and an accelerator to join them.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-17-10-8.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-17-10-9.jpg)
I want the joints as tight as possible for asthetics. You could have a gap here, and it would work fine because they are normally right behind the thick part of your riser. I like tight lines myself!
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-17-10-10.jpg)
Next is sanding the edges of the lams to knock off the splinters. These can get trapped between lams, or under the glass and will look horrible if not taken care of.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-17-10-11.jpg)
:thumbsup:
Unbelievable, well, not really I guess. I just looked at it. I'm just having a hard time comprehending the workmanship. There's a lot of talent right there. Nice job and thanks for sharing with us.
-Jeremy
Fantastic work Marty. Waiting for the next lesson.
Nice work as always. Be looking forward to more.
Tim
Simply amazing! Can't wait for the bow to come out of the oven!
Keep it coming!!!
Josh
I found myself without the glass I need!!!! Kenny shipped it Sat, so I should have it Tue. Stay tuned!
I appreciate all the kind words!
My glass came yesterday, so this morning I am prepping everything for glue-up. The belly lams have to be trimmed down some in length. I tape the back side of the glass to keep off the smooth-on.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-21-10-1.jpg)
Then it's time for a dry run. I clean all the lams with acetone, and stack them on the form in proper order. For this bow it will be glass, cherry, boo, boo, riser, cherry, and glass. This cherry is awesome, and quickly becoming my favorite!
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-21-10-2.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-21-10-3.jpg)
I put the pressure strips on top, and with hand pressure determine if the riser fades are going to fade like they are supposed to. I don't want any gaps here at all.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-21-10-4.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-21-10-5.jpg)
You can see a shadow where the lams over-hang the riser in the last photo.
I have to pick up an extra bicycle inner tube and another seam roller today, and should then be all set for the lay-up.
Marty,
Are the back cherry and boo tapers?
Mike
Teagus, all four lams are .001 tapers.
Looking good! Is something cooking?
Wow are the Cherry limbs going to look nice!
Josh
Time for lay-up!
Here is my method for glue-up, which I don't think I've shared much of. It's really hard to take photos cause you are covered with epoxy! Don't really want to ruin my camera. Here you see the smooth-on all mixed up, a 1" wallpaper seam roller, and a wooden stick. I dab the epoxy down the lam and then roll it out with the roller. Works well for me.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-21-10-6.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-21-10-7.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-21-10-8.jpg)
After the roller, I eye-ball the whole lam looking for this, a dry spot! Can't have those.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-21-10-9.jpg)
After all the bottom lams are buttered and stacked, I butter the riser bottom and clamp it on top of the stack. I make sure the center is indexed to my form.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-21-10-10.jpg)
Check out this cherry with smooth-on applied. This is close to what it will look like under the glass.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-21-10-11.jpg)
Now I fold the plastic wrap over the bow from each side and secure the whole works with a couple of wraps of electrical tape. I'm careful here not to trap any plastic wrap between the lams.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-21-10-12.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-21-10-13.jpg)
Next I place the pressure strips on top and start wrapping bicycle innertube clamps. I use lots of rubber here folks! About 7 strips per side. A typical bike tube will yeild 2-3 strips depending on the diameter of the tube. I pay special attention to the fadeouts here.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-21-10-14.jpg)
Then I set up my oven. It's a simple affair, but works great! During the colder months I will use four 100W bulbs. When it's warmer, like now, I use four 75W bulbs. My timer is a $6 job from Lowes. I want 140-160 degrees here for around five hours to set the smooth-on epoxy. My cover is made of pvc and plastic/foil water heater insulation.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-21-10-16.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-21-10-15.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-21-10-17.jpg)
Medium-rare beef is what we are shooting for! :) It takes about an hour to get up to full temperature.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-21-10-18.jpg)
That cook'n smells good to me!
Awesome!!!
Josh
That cherry looks real good Marty!! As does your work! :notworthy:
This morning I took her out of the form. Here is the blank with all the excess epoxy on the sides. I've always been one to use too much, but I sleep good after putting one in the oven. It only takes an hour, or even less to clean it up. First the bandsaw, then the belt sander.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-22-10-1.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-22-10-2.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-22-10-4.jpg)
My favorite part of bow building is cleaning up the blank and peeling the tape! This one looks really good. Perfect glue lines and zero air bubbles under the glass.
I'm really liking the wood combos Josh chose!
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-22-10-5.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-22-10-7.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-22-10-8.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-22-10-9.jpg)
Wow Marty. That looks great. Perfect glue joints.
I'm drooling over that combo! And that riser is some kinda' fine. Go slow now, so I can savor every upcoming moment.
CHA CHING....that rise is money. I have got to get ahold of some ebony soon.
Marty...when you posted the picture of that Cherry limbed bow last fall I was just sucked in!
It is all that I was looking for and much more, glad I went with the Ebony as it should be amazing when sprayed! The lines are flawless and the limbs just came alive under the glass.
Josh
That is one sweet glue up - the fades are inspirational. You have set the standard high for quality. Thanks for showing us how.
Next step is to mark the center of the riser. I use my fancy centering jig here to mark the center of the riser. Then I stretch a line that bi-sects the center, then mark the tip centers.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-23-10-1.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-23-10-2.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-23-10-3.jpg)
Then I mark the top of the limbs 3" outside the fades, and make marks on either side of the tip centers for a 5/8" wide tip. I draw a straight lines from mark to mark.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-23-10-4.jpg)
Then I take it to the belt sander and take the limbs down to the line. After sanding there will be small fiberglass splinters on the edges, so be careful handling the bow.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-23-10-5.jpg)
I then take another little jig I made and make lines parallel to the limb edges on the last 10" of limb. I then taper the last 10" down to these lines at the tips, until my tips just fit in my nock groove line drawing jig. Lot's of jigs huh?
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-23-10-6.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-23-10-7.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-23-10-8.jpg)
I draw my lines with the little line jig in place, and then I cut shallow grooves. I progress through the grooves with three tools in order. I start with a tiny jewlers triangle file, then to the tile saw blade, and finally the chainsaw file. The three steps allows me to make any needed corrections each time I move up to the bigger tool.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-23-10-9.jpg)
This lady now gets her first stringing! Alignment looks good, the bottom limb is just a little stiffer, and she draws 65@29. Perfect for this stage of the game. I want her to be around 8# over my target draw weight, cause there is limb timing, tiller, and limb narrowing ahead.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-23-10-10.jpg)
Here she is with a little too low of brace. Need to find a little shorter string before I continue.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-23-10-11.jpg)
Now its time to build my overlays. I use my belt/spindle combo sander for this. The fence I use is square to the sandpaper. I thin pieces of osage and ebony for the overlays.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-23-10-12.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-23-10-13.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-23-10-14.jpg)
I will laminate the overlays on tonight.
There is no doubt that if I were in the market to buy a bow I would buy from you.
I was wondering about the secondary taper the last 10". At first I thought you were going to trap the last 10". Curious why not a straight taper from the 3" past fade? I'm thinkin it's about tip bend?
Mike
It will, for all practical purposes, be a straight taper before I am done. I like to start wide and work into the final limb profile in case I have any twist issues. Still a good bit of limb width to reduce. I have eight pounds to go!
Marty,
When you make tip overlays, considering if you want some overlay material remaining in the bottom of the string groove, and considering the loop diameter of a served three-lay 15 strand string, do you have a minimum target thickness of your total overlay? I just finished overlays on recurve tips consisting of .030 wht. glass/.030 blk glass/.060 bubinga. Looks great but wish I had gone thicker.
Mike
I normally shoot for around .200 for the total overlay.
Marty...looks great!
It will be FF approved correct?
Josh
Yes it will Josh.
WOW, you knocked me off my feet. Marty that bow is just looking AWESOME !!!! Fantastic wood combo. I can see there's still a lot to learn for me.
----------
Andy
I rough up the glass under the overlays with 80 grit by hand, then clean all the pieces with acetone. Do a dry run here to make sure everything mates well! Sometimes you have to get creative in your clamping. Overlays want to slide all over the place. When using two pieces it's even worse. Then it's on to the smooth-on. Like always, I use too much! :)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-24-10-1.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-24-10-2.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-24-10-3.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-24-10-4.jpg)
My three headed monster supplies a little heat. I just want to keep everything nice and warm for several hours while the epoxy cures.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-24-10-5.jpg)
I see a run on the Ebony market. Seeing this build and having shot a recurve recently with an ebony riser I am impressed by the beauty of the wood and the additional weight.
Marty how much heavier will this bow be compared to your other cumberlands. I could not believe the difference between my zebrawood riser vs the ebony riser.
In a straight longbow riser, which is pretty small, the difference is noticeable, but not very much. The following is a specific gravity list of some favorite riser woods.
Kingwood 1.20, cocobolo 1.10, gaboon ebony 1.03, bloodwood .96, bubinga .88, wenge .88, granadillo .79, osage .76, zebra .74, hard maple .72, walnut .64.
Anything higher than 1.00 will sink in water.
I'm going to have my wife print this when it's finished so I can always go back and look at it.
The Ebony will help stabilize the bow along with a quiver full of arrows.
Looking great!
Josh
Today I cleaned up the edge of the riser and tip overlays first. Then I start to work on the tips. I carry my string groove across the overlay on the tip. Then I start to shape them. First I have to narrow the tips, being carefull not to sand all my groove away. I continue to deepen them as the tips width narrows. Here are some photos.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-25-10-1.jpg)
I got on a roll and forgot to take some photos! I used my free standing belt sander for most of the tip shaping. Then I carefully sanded the joint with a dremel and then sandpaper by hand. Here are the tips 80 percent complete.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-25-10-8.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-25-10-9.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-25-10-10.jpg)
Now to work on the riser overlay. I use my 1" belt sander to thin the bevel some, then I tape the glass and dremel up to the tape. Hand sanding finishes them out. The joint on the tips get the same treatment.
Here are some before and after photos.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-25-10-2.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-25-10-4.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-25-10-6.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-25-10-7.jpg)
I got some work done on the riser as well! I'm gonna hate to put a piece of leather on this one. I'm really diggin' it!
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-25-10-11.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-25-10-12.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-25-10-13.jpg)
Simply. WOW!!!!!
No leather ...I agree to cover it up would be a shame!
It is simply too nice!
Josh
Marty, this last page has shown me that I am not too far off in my methods in smoothing out the overlays. But, you expertise definetly shows through!
I agree, some risers just don't need a leather grip glued to them. If a grip is necessary at all for hunting then pull over a section of bike innertube, inside out, for traction and peel it off when you want to admire the beautiful work.
Again, great job.
Goodness Marty, that is some fine work! Your glue lines are simply flawless!!
Really likeing this so far!
I'm spinning in my chair like a school kid! Simply masterful. And I agree; ix-nay on the eather-lay.
Another vote for no leather-WAY too cool looking as is. Great job
Great lookin bow Marty. Can you say checkered grip :)
Very,Very nice Marty, of course you know the Cumberland you built for me was prettier...lol! Oliverstacy you got a nice one there!!!!!
Wow great lookin bow Marty. Nice work
Excellent!
Bear with my folks! Not much to see right now. Lots of hand sanding.
Not a lot to show right now. I've got her hand sanded down through 150 grit. After 220 grit I will fill the pores in the riser, then time to spray.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-28-10-1.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-28-10-2.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-28-10-3.jpg)
man.... thats some nice work! cant wait to see the finished bow. Great post, makes me want to put my order in.
Wow it just keeps getting better!
Simply amazing!
Josh
I've got her sanded through 220 grit now. Here she is after the first coat of CA (super glue). This will fill the wood pores to give the riser a nice level look after spraying. I will sand this down with 220 grit. Ebony and osage aren't particularily porous, so this one coat may be enough. Some woods like wenge or walnut need quite a few leveling coats. This photo shows how dark the ebony will be under finish.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-29-10-1.jpg)
Those lines are excellent and well proportioned.
When sanding down the super glue, you can easily see the low spots that need more sanding, or another application.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-30-10-1.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bow%20Building/4-30-10-2.jpg)
I actually got the string made and out the door today...you should have it Monday!
Should look nice on it!
Josh
Here she is folks!
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Apex%20bows/03210-1.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Apex%20bows/03210-2.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Apex%20bows/03210-3.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Apex%20bows/03210-4.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Apex%20bows/03210-5.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Apex%20bows/03210-6.jpg)
Here are a few more photos!
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Apex%20bows/03210-7.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Apex%20bows/03210-8.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Apex%20bows/03210-9.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Apex%20bows/03210-10.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Apex%20bows/03210-11.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Apex%20bows/03210-12.jpg)
Wow does that thing look amazing! I love how a great looking bow comes alive when it's sprayed!
Marty...one heck of a job!
Can't wait to get it send come carbon down range!
Josh
looks great, nice finish is that Fullerblast?
Yes Bob, it's Fullerplast.
Man-that's a beauty!!
Wow Marty!!!! Another masterpiece. Beautiful work.
Congrats Josh. Anyone would be proud to carry that bow and how many people have the process from beginning to end available to them. Enjoy!! :thumbsup:
Fantastic!!!!!!!
GREAT JOB!!
That is one sweet bow! Congrats Oliver!
REAL Nice, Marty! Great work :bigsmyl:
Black and yellow fletch, yellar nocs, black cap and yellar shaft stain, oh yeah!
exceptional work, someday I will have one of your R/D bows.
Hazah! That is a beauty!!!!!!!
Wow Marty. That looks great. Another nice bow
Well done!!!
WOW !!! Marty that's a awesome looking bow. Fantastic job.
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Andy
Super build along and a great looking bow.
Congrats!
Perfect Fit and Finish!!! Gotta love that slight textured finish!!!
Well done!
That is a great looking bow ! I like the wood combinations.
Where did you get your ebony ?
Bill
Bill, I bought this piece at Gilmer Woods online. I like the fact that they have quite a selection and photos of every piece. I don't like that the best stuff goes quickly, they have a $100 minimum, and the shipping isn't cheap for me.
Bill, I bought this piece at Gilmer Woods online. I like the fact that they have quite a selection and photos of every piece. I don't like that the best stuff goes quickly, they have a $100 minimum, and the shipping isn't cheap for me.
Very nice Marty.
Here are some more photos! I'm just getting it all set up and since it's been horrible weather since it showed up I'm hopefully going to get it up and running on Monday!
Love these!
(http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/oliverstacy/IMG_1315.jpg)
(http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/oliverstacy/IMG_13141.jpg)
Nice packaging!
(http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/oliverstacy/IMG_1310.jpg)
(http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/oliverstacy/IMG_1311.jpg)
(http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/oliverstacy/IMG_1312.jpg)
Marty, your glue lines, overlays, fades, finish, and overall attention to detail are positively amazing. Inspirational, even. It makes me want to go make yellow dust! :thumbsup:
Great Job Marty. What a beautiful bow
epoxy glulams can be much stronger than the woods that compose them.