Welcome to the build along my friends. Lets all sit back and see if Marty and Biggie make their way over here to say hello. As you may be aware FerrettWYO won a hog hunt and a bow. Well building the bow is my job so here goes. When I took on the bow build I contacted Ferrett and asked about what his preference was for woods and weights. Well about mid 50's at 28" and as for the wood lets just say it was unobtanium. HM where to get that. Never built one out of that before... A few phone calls and such and I had a supplier lined up. After I placed the order I found out that delivery was a little bit longer than expected.
Well, Today that delivery occurred. Just in time I might add.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0837.jpg)
Let me tell you the block of wood weighs in at 10 pounds. Can you guess?
here is a little more
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0840.jpg)
pete
:clapper: :clapper: :clapper: That is one nice piece of _ _ _ _ _.
Hey is that my new longbow in the background
Is it African Blackwood or Burmese Blackwood?
Doesn't quite look like ebony to me. The pic looks like it as more grain than typical ebony. It's going to be pretty whatever is made from it.
Hard to tell, but it looks like it might be maccasar ebony to me. Whatever it is, it is pretty.
Allan
Coccobolo
pete we need some pictures fast. Scott is honing in.
These guys are good.
Vanillabear? got it!
Gabon Ebony it is!!!
Now I know why it takes me so long to build a bow. Pics. Download, Photo bucket, Trad gang, Type a post!!!!!
pete.
More pics later tonight after glue UP@
pete
and the Lams are?? under what glass
What are lams?
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0842.jpg)
oh the bendy things! With lams like that I promise to put them under black glass!
Nuf of the silliness. on with the build!
The first thing I had to do was lay out the riser. I use the bow form to lay out the platform.
To see the layout I put masking tape on the block.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0845.jpg)
and then it was time to square the band saw. I am glad I checked cause it was out just a skoch.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0847.jpg)
and then it was time to start cutting. Here is where I follow the advice of my friend and mentor Graywolf who preaches. "Cut out side the line. Sand to the line!" So that is what I do.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0848.jpg)
Using a new 3/8 6 tpi blade made cutting the ebony easy. I just took my time and voila...
a rough cut riser.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0849.jpg)
After the initial sanding to the line it was time for a test fit. YOu can see that I put a piece of white poster board behind my form. this makes it easy to see the gaps between the riser and the bow form.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0855.jpg)
pete
The process is to now go back and forth from the form to the table sander. Note the tape with the center line in the third picture. This is important because it makes it easier to position the block the same every time. Sometimes when you remove just a little bit of wood it changes the whole fit and will slide the block a little left or right. I also switched the sanding drum to a new one for the final fittings.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0853.jpg)
as the fit starts getting tighter and tighter I switch to hand tools. A rubber backed sanding block, the rubber block is actually a piece of conveyor belting from a quarry, and a card scraper that I made from an old saw. These tools allow me to remove only bits of wood so I can get the fit close to light tight.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0856.jpg)
in this next pic we are almost light tight. I tried to take a photo showing the little spot of light right at the top of the riser and just couldn't get it. When I get this close I will use a piece of masking tape on the form to fill the space. If one piece of tape doesn't make it light tight the tape is removed and the sanding continues.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0857.jpg)
When the riser is light tight I use a hack saw blade mounted in a bench vice to tooth the wood. I like the 18 TPI blades for this purpose.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0859.jpg)
I then clean the wood with my trusty brass brush. It gets rid of the loose wood fibers very quickly.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0862.jpg)
That is all for now.
pete
Lookin sharp, thanks for the buildalong tips. I like the blade in the vice idea as well as the tape on the form for light tight. I will be using these for my next one.
Thanks
Josh
Looking good Bro. So I guess glue up is next.
Can't wait to see the bow on the 9th.
Are you bringing the 36# training bow and the new longbow?
Did all the feeders last week, boy was it wet out there and hog sign all over. Make sure you bring a Thermacell you are gonna want it.
Nice tips Pete! What kind of band saw are you using? Seems to make a nice smoothe cut through that dense ebony. New blade helps but I always have problems with wood that thick...than again, my band saw is small and weak...Like that template you use, great idea making it out of plastic.
Biggie and I have zero talent when it comes to building things! We buy em! Looks like a lighter knot stump to me! Now those I can identify. So you're tellin me thast thing will be finished in 2 weeks? What takes these custom bowyers so long then? Are they THAT busy? Good for them.
Pete that is amazing. I have several bows but have never seen the process. This is gaining meaning even before completion. The craftsmanship and talent it takes to make things so perfect is amazing to me.
Enjoying this one Pete!
Really enjoying it.
Randy these guys are still around. Pretty sure
"We can put you on them" if I can keep Pete out of the stand. It is one of this favorites for sunrise.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/st%20judes/CDY_0021.jpg)
When you get to camp you may see some similar bows handing around.
Here is Marty with his "Peanut Master"
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/AAHUNT/martydoe.jpg)
me with "Lighting"
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/racoon/DSCN4745.jpg)
Pete with "Chocolate Swirl"
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/DSCN4635.jpg)
Those are huge.
Beautiful bows. I can't wait to meet you all.
Tommy,
To answer your band saw question, mine is a Craftsman 12 inch one HP. Nothing fancy BUT!!!! there are a few things that I have done to make sure it cuts well. First involved with set up, I change my blade trailing bearings at the first sign of imperfection. THse are the bearings that the blade bumps in to if you put too much tension on the blade. I constantly smooth the blade guide pins. My next set is going to be teflon coated if I can find something that will work. Third I adjust the set up of the saw very close. The trailing bearings are set so that they just barley spin with the saw on and no pressure on the blade. The guide pins are set so that a dollar bill will not fall out from between the blade and the guide. CLOSE. the final trick is to cut slowly! I push the wood very gently through the saw. IT is not a race. If I take 10 minutes to make one cut it is very easy to control the cut and it does not pressure the saw or burn the wood. Patience must be in supply.
Marty as far as the custom bows...
The more detail that is in the riser the longer it will take to build the bow. For example, the riser in Les longbow,
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/les%20longbow/DSCN0829.jpg)
involved three fittings and glue ups just to make the riser block and then I had to do all of the shaping before it even got near the bow form. That right there is three days of wait time. When I build a bow I can figure 30-40 hours. Seeing that I hold down a full time job... YEA it takes time. This bow will get done because I have cleared the decks to get it done. Wifey knows that I am under the gun because of work... so the honey do list is canceled along with all social obligations. In other words I am locked In my SHOP YEA! YES! OH I LOVE IT!
Now on to the build,
No Metsastaja glue up is not next. I have to finish shaping the riser. After the bottom of the riser is light tight I have to finish shaping the belly portion of the riser. To do this I taped the riser and used my clear plastic form to trace the outline on to the block.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0863.jpg)
taking my time I stay outside of the line!
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0865.jpg)
The tape is on the riser block that will be used for the bow. I have set the nock off back in place in this picture.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0866.jpg)
and then I sand to the line
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0868.jpg)
When both sides are done to the line it is time to finish the fades!
pete
Absolutely amazing Pete!!! Bravo my man, can't wait to see the next step!!!
TJW
Ferret,
I let ya down and didn't take pics of the fade grinding. So I have to go back to a previous build and show ya. First, Credit needs to be given where credit is due. Cutting the fades used to be one of those things that I found difficult until Apex Predator showed me how. IT is easy now!
The entire trick is to back the riser block with a solid piece of wood. IT makes it easy. And again I thank Apex for sharing.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/peanut/DSCN0021.jpg)
I can make it thin enough that light shines through the wood.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/peanut/DSCN0023.jpg)
After the block is to this level it is toothed on the belly and then set aside to prep for the dry run and glue up. Dry run and Glue up is a process that I use a check list on because if you forget one thing you are screwed.
DO NOT ASK HOW I KNOW THIS!!!!! Ok you can ask but I am likely to not answer you!
First process in the dry run/glue up is to prep the press. Here my bow form is ready for the glue up. FIrst thing I do is wax the form anywhere within 5 inches of the gluing surface. I then put plastic wrap over the glue surface and hold it in place with masking tape. Then I attache the eccentric washers. In this pic you can see the tape that I put in place to make the form light tight to the riser block.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0869.jpg)
The eccentric washers are used to keep everything lined up on the form. OF all the tricks I have learned this one is one I consider a requirement.
Then I begin laying out all of the supplies I will need. Paper towel, Rubber bands or air hose and air pump, strapping tape, Clear plastic wrap, glue cups, mixing sticks, nitrile gloves a box of them, alcohol, scisors,... This list goes on!
A dry run is then done to make sure that every thing fits together and works. I have to admit something here. I do not do a full dry run. I have built a fair number of bows and now know where things go wrong. I do put all parts on the form but do not attach all the bands. I also do not glue the back laminations together until I am ready to do the glue up because they break apart under the stress. I will explain this later. That is all for now...
pete
So now it's time for the glue up.
You didn't let on my riser looked that cool. How about you send that and the training bow ahead. I could get some practice in. :bigsmyl:
You'd be surprised what comes out of your nose after working with ebony........
Sweet! I'll be watching this one as well!
QuoteOriginally posted by highpoint forge:
You'd be surprised what comes out of your nose after working with ebony........
Knowing my brother he was probably wearing an
AOSsaftey 8051 Chemical Cartridge face mask.
NO WORRIES LAst thing he wants is black boogers in his glue boogers
Nice build along, thanks. It is looking great!
This brings a while new appreciation for the bow. It is looking great.
Looking great, Pete!
Spoke to Pete... He is changing out his band saw blades. that was at 4:30
nice build a long, thanks for posting the pics.
This is awesome, can't wait to see more Also I love those bows in the hunting pics!!!
I really like this kind of stuff, I need to get a kit and start building these along with you all. I only made one self bow from hickory and that turned out real nice. I changed a few things from the plans and it seems to work great. I was shooting nocks off last night with the ole girl
We'd love to see pics I'm sure stick!!!! Of the bow I mean
OK I have the time and where with-all left in my wits to start the glue up procedure.
What do I mean by that? The glue up is kind of like the point of no return once you start applying the glue. I always like to have plenty of time. It usually only takes me 45 minutes from the time I have the glue mixed but set up and the double check of everything is critical.
First I go over my glue up check list and make sure that I have everything taken care of. Hot box on and laminations warming. Normally I would warm the riser too but a friend of mine who has worked with ebony suggested that I not heat it because of the oil. Greywolf has never lead me astray so I figured I would follow his lead.
Well here we go. Here I am gluing the laminations together with ca gel so they do not spread apart when they are in the bow form. You will also notice that the fiberglass has blue tape on the shiney side.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0870-1.jpg)
Now here comes the bummer part. I was in a hurry and did not get to take pics of the glue up so, here is a vid of a glue up of the same design bow.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/peanut/th_DSCN0043.jpg) (http://s214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/peanut/?action=view¤t=DSCN0043.flv)
after all of the parts are smeared with glue it is time to cover them with clear plastic wrap and strap the bow down to the form. Here you can see the strapping tape and the start of the rubber bands that apply the pressure.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0874-1.jpg)
here you can see the eccentric washers keeping the laminations in line.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0882.jpg)
here is the form in the oven ready for 7 hours at about 150-170 degrees
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0876-1.jpg)
That is awesome.
Wait till Pete gets his posts caught up to where he is in the process. :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
I dont want to wait :biglaugh:
This just keeps getting better.
What day is it?
I have been busier than the posts because of work and time restraints I have been focusing on getting the bow done not posting. Well I have it in the oven baking and have a few so I will try to get a little closer than I have been.
Now WHere was I?
THe bow was in the oven! TIme to come out!
(This was actually Tuesday)
This next photo shows the bow form out of the oven with all of the rubber bands removed. If you look at the top of the form you see the pressure strips that are put on the top of the bow. THese keep the pressure from the bands square to the top of the bow. The strips are a 1/16 strip of aluminum that is wrapped in plastic wrap and on the top a piece of Masonite. The strapping tape is used to keep the slimy glue and wood and fiberglass mess in place.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0878-1.jpg)
At this point you start cutting the tape and removing the pressure strips from the top of the bow. You end up with a bow form with a bow on the top held securely to the form with what I call Glue Boogers. The good thing about lots of glue boogers is that it means the bow is not glue starved. You need to be careful pulling the bow off the form because you can cut yourself on the glue if you are not careful. Here is the bow coming off the form.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0883.jpg)
Meet a glue booger and the tool I use to remove them. An old pair of nock pliers.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0886.jpg)
my next chore is to clean up the bow blank. Normally I do this outside on my large table belt sander but it was night and I had to get it done so I used the tabletop model with the dust collection system. It still puts a little dust in the air so use a respirator. No dust mask for me. I use a HEPA/acid Gas/chlorinated solvent cartridge. Fiber Glass is nasty.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0889.jpg)
Here is a hint of what it might look like.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0891.jpg)
pete
That first pc of tape is always a cliffhanger!! Lookin good Pete!!
Pete it's Friday. Come on give Randy a break
Wow, you are really keeping me on the edge of my seat haha. I keep hoping you haven't gone to bed yet!
Looking great buddy!
First things first,
THANK you KENNY M. This bow is going to be a success only because of you! THANK YOU for saving MY butt. Film at 11:00. Note I did not say tonight. May not get there for a day or so but you helped me avert disaster!
Now, Where were we? Hm I know where I am today but I need to go back a page and see where I left off. Ahhhh yes the first glimpse of the bow with tape removed. One of the things I really don't like about building bows is removing the tape. It always seems to take too long by a factor of 100. Well anyway it is a necessary step.
Here is the cleaned up bow blank. This is always a nervous time for me. Is there a flaw in the the Fiber Glass, a spot with no glue, or a hair under the glass? Inspection of this bow showed no issues that I could pick up. WHEWW. Under fluorescent light.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0898.jpg)
and under natural light.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0902.jpg)
The next step is to measure the limb length. There are two marks. The first is the location of the string nock and the second the end of the limb which is cut. You will notice that the bow is taped up again this time with white masking tape. This allows easy visual acquisition of pencil marks on dark wood and there are going to be a number of them. The other thing that the tape does is protect the finish of the glass. And just in case you are wondering why I work on a piece of carpet there are a few reasons. First it is a soft surface that will not mar wood or fiberglass. Second it allows the bow to settle down in to the knapp of the carpet and helps it to stay in place when I am working on it. Third it gives saw dust a place to settle without spreading all over the place. A quick hit with the vacuum cleaner and it is gone. I build my bows in a bedroom turned shop. Dust is a problem. When cutting the bow ends it is critical to back up the cutting with a piece of wood lest you pull up a splinter of the glass.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0906.jpg)
Next we need a center line. I have used a number of methods since I began building bows and have settled on a method using string. The first step is to find the center of the back of the bow. To do this I use a diagonal measuring method. You will notice that I have the ruler diagonally placed across the limb. With the limb width being 1 1/2 inches I measure two inches across the limbs. IT makes the inch mark the center. I draw a line along the ruler. I then twist the ruler to the other diagonal and repeat the process and I have an x marking the center of the bow.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0908.jpg)
I then mark the center of the limb at the end and stretch a weighted string across the length of the bow. I line up the string by eyeball on the center marks that I made in the center of the bow and rest the string on the other limb. By marking the spot where the string hits the limb I have center points.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0909.jpg)
Fixing the centerline is easy using a flexible straight edge and a number of spring clamps.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0911.jpg)
pete
Don't stop now :D
Looking great
Way to go bro. I can tell it's posting time..I'll bet you have even shot the bow..
Anticipation and suspense for the new owner..
Yes stopping now is not nice
Still Posting, I have a lot of catch up!
With the center line drawn it it time to lay out the limbs. To do this I use a template that is made out of Formica. It has a line drawn across the location of the string nock and a v notch cut in the end. This allows me to get the template in the exact same spot on the limb by putting the v notch right on the center line.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0913.jpg)
After I trace the one side of the limb I flip the template over and trace the other side. In this pic you can see how I marked the limb template to show which side is to be used. No means NO!!!! The reason I flip the template is to keep the sides as close to identical as possible. This little trick has made tillering much easier in the long run. (Sometimes totally unnecessary!)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0914.jpg)
After marking out the limbs I use my band saw to cut them down to size. About this you need to understand the Fiber Glass destroys band saw blades in about 15 seconds. I use a 1/2 inch 6TPI blade to cut the limbs. I run it slowly outside of the line. After cutting the limbs I remove the blade from the saw, coil it and tape it and and mark it FG only for the next time that I need it.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0918.jpg)
Then I go outside and use my bench sander to sand to the line. This is done outside because of the amount of dust.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0920.jpg)
After the limbs are sanded to the line it is time to file the string nocks in to place. To do this I refer to a couple of pencil lines that were drawn before the limb was shaped. (Easier to keep square.) The line on the back of the limb is connected to the line on the belly of the limb. This gives the same angle on both sides of the limb for the nock groves.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0929.jpg)
and then the depth of the nock grove is measured on both sides of the limb.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0931.jpg)
I use a triangle file to initially cut the string nock. you can see this on the right side of the limb in the photo below. I then use a small chain saw file to round the nock grove as seen on the left side of the limb. A key for good tiller is to make sure that the groves are even. You can see that I had to "Lower" the right side nock grove a little to match the left.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0933.jpg)
pete
Sorry I have to come up for air every so often! Still posting. Yea it has flung an arra or two.
After all of the nocks are filed it is time to put a string on the bow and tiller it. The way that I build a bow there are two ways that it is tillered. The first phase is to make sure that the limbs are pulling straight back from the bow and not twisting. To check this you look at the bow down the length and look to see if the tip of the bow is pulling to one side or the other. A quick look at this one showed that the limbs were straight at low brace. I then use a 20 inch tillering stick on the bow to check it at 1/2 draw. In this next picture you can see that the limb tip is pointing to the pencil. To balance the limb I had to remove a small amount of material from the strong side of the limb. The strong side is the side it is pointing to. If you look carefully you can see the pencil mark on the tape that shows which side I needed to remove the wood from. The reason I mark it is because it is easy to get twisted around when you unstring the bow and lay it down.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0942.jpg)
After a few tries I had both limbs of the bow pulling straight. Then it was time to check the balance tiller of the limb top limb to bottom limb. To do this I measure the fades using a bow square. I want the lower limb to be 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch stronger than the top limb.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0944.jpg)
The initial readings were 7 3/16 inches and 7 1/2 inches. To balance the limb I sanded the lower limb using 120 grit paper. I use a long straight edge and remove a few swipes from each side of the limb and then I sand the glass surface using a rubber sanding block. Once I have the limbs in balance I put the bow on my tillering tree and view the limbs from a few feet back and I also watch them bend. This is also when I check the initial weight. The Marty 300 came in at a whopping 82#. Just right for a neanderthal! What am I going to do! Oh April Fools day was a couple days ago. It actually came in at 65# at 28". This is not too bad. I am aiming for 57# at 28". A tiny bit hefty but the bow will end up in the neighborhood. Notice the balance in the bending of the limbs and how the top and bottom tips are similarly balanced above the black line. This is a good thing.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0939.jpg)
Weight loss is accomplished by thinning the width of the limb and the thickness. It is a slow easy process with continual check of the tillers. It is easy to go slowly and keep it balanced. With the bow down to 60 # it was time to move forward and really make this thing look like a bow. This next photo shows the initial layout of the bow. I used a black marker to make it easy to see. normally I use a pencil. I also marked all my little notes with marker so you could see them. Weight and tiller measurements don't get lost this way.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0946.jpg)
Additional layout markings.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0947.jpg)
Remember that blade I mentioned? It is again time to cut fiberglass...To cut out the riser I use a 3/8 6tpi. I have a number of blades marked FG.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0949.jpg)
CUT AWAY!
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0952.jpg)
and how I cut the shelf out.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0953.jpg)
I then use a hack saw blade to continue the sight window cut down to the shelf. The next step is to start rounding the square blocky riser in to a thing of comfort and beauty. This is one of the most exciting phases of bowyering because you go from Blocky to comfortable in less time than a glue up!
pete
Excellent build along Pete...I cant wait to see that riser come to life.
This has been a power build followed by a power posting session.
The main tool used to go from blocky to sexy is the bench sander but the files, card scraper and sanding block get a lot of use too. This photo shows how I hold the riser still when I am using the hand tools.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0956.jpg)
with a little sanding it is starting to look like a bow.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0959.jpg)
Do you remember that big block of wood that I started with? THe one that I cut the riser out of? It is time to go did it out of the wood pile and get my next part. A quick cut with the band saw along the line...
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0963.jpg)
hm where does it go???
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0964.jpg)
Oh said the blind bowyer as he picked up his hammer and saw! It is also time to cut the limb pads out of the blocks that were cut off of the riser.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0965.jpg)
To shape these to the curve of the limb I usually use dry heat and bend the wood gently to match the curve of the limb. I do not want stress built in to the limb because the ebony is straining to pull away from the glue joint. I want this as close as I can make it.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0968.jpg)
Here we are close. If you look carefully near the tip of the limb you can see my problem. THe ebony is starting to split.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0969.jpg)
I cut a second piece and got it really close to fitting. In this pic you can see that I have it clamped to the limb but this took more pressure than I liked. As I was bending this piece to fit it too cracked.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0970.jpg)
What to do? I quit for the night at this point to think about my options.
pete
Wow, really great build along. That bow is really making tracks!
Your like the energizer bunny tonight you keep on going and going and going.. Pete you know the other half of the ebony...I call dibs.
Its looking awesome.
dibbs, schmibbs...
possession is nine tenths of the law. Hmmmm. I may just need to forget to get this one one the plane!
:bigsmyl: :bigsmyl: :bigsmyl:
pete
Pete, that is a fantastic looking bow! WOW!! I'm not a recurve guy, but yours look incredible. What a beauty.
I think you are gonna just have to thin the piece more buddy! Maybe two layers?
Its time how did you fix the problem. I know you are a lot farther along then what you are telling us. :pray:
Ok Time to keep the build going butfirst things first. I had gotten home and it was a new day and time to take a look at the bow through a new eye.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0972.jpg)
and now from the shooters perspective.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0976.jpg)
Now for the resolution. After trying the thinner ebony and having it crack I decided that I needed to take a look elsewhere in my shop for another string pad option. While considering the options I saw pieces of purple heart, zebra wood, birdseye maple, cherry, walnut, osage, bubinga, ash and then my eye fell on a piece of junk packing wood that Kenny M had used to protect the lams. How many lam suppliers do you know who put a strip of packing wood in the box with the lams that matches the laminations? There sitting next to my desk was a beautiful piece of cocobolo just itching to become a piece of the bow. OVERLAY!!!!!!!! and Cocobolo bends nicely! Thank you Kenny M.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0979.jpg)
and fits quickly
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0980.jpg)
This photo shows all the little parts that need to be glued to the bow, The phenolic limb tips, Cocobolo string pads and the ebony riser doubler.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0981.jpg)
gluing the riser doubler in place.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0986.jpg)
securing it with clear plastic and bands. I use the plastic wrap first then the bands and then clear plastic to keep everything in place.
and then the string pads and tip overlays get clamped on
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0987.jpg)
and the bow spends another night in the hot box!
pete
Is it out of the hot box yet ha ha.
Out of one and in to another!
Thanks for this build a long its awesome.
awesome lookin bow hope to shoot it someday maybe you will bring it to hunting camp Randy
I am starting to shape my first Laminated Bow riser and this build a long is the perfect tutorial for me to read. Last night I was starting to get the, "Let's get this done, NOW," bug. You know what happens when we get that thought in to our heads. I decided to just walk away for the evening. (Patience, Grasshopper) Good thing because it gave me a chance to see what you do to keep everything running smoothly.
Thanks for all the hard work you've put in to this thread!!!!
Great looking boy, btw, too.
This is going to be your best bow! Stunning!
QuoteOriginally posted by Apex Predator:
This is going to be your best bow! Stunning!
Definitely his best looker. I hear it shoots real nice
Great news even though the build along is not complete. The "Marty 300" or as Pete called it last night the "Black Hole" is finished and on its way to Florida.
When I asked "Black Hole"? He stammered and said I wouldn't believe him till I see it. Evidently it has something to do with black gaboon ebony under several coats of finish.
Now that the bow is done and shipped, his daughter is back in College "Easter Break" he will have time to settle down and finish up the posting.
QuoteOriginally posted by BOSS:
awesome lookin bow hope to shoot it someday maybe you will bring it to hunting camp Randy
You will get to shoot it Dad.
QuoteOriginally posted by metsastaja:
QuoteOriginally posted by Apex Predator:
This is going to be your best bow! Stunning!
When I asked "Black Hole"? He stammered and said I wouldn't believe him till I see it. Evidently it has something to do with black gaboon ebony under several coats of finish.
[/b]
That is awesome. Cant wait till he has a little time to post more of the build.
Dang he must have been handed the "Honey Dos" he was allowed to put off during this build.
Randy,
I am now officially jealous! First you win this hunt and bow, then ya win one of Herb's bows at BOW. Now I get to see yours being made (and it looks awesome by the way). Why do you get all the luck!
Dan
It's not just honey dos but survival!.,.IT has been all long days and just cause the Marty 300 is on the way doesn't mean it stopped. Well the bow came out of the hot box and the plastic wrap came off and it turned out that the riser doubler stayed in place as did the tip overlays and the string pads.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0989.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0990.jpg)
With all looking good it was time to take the bow to the sander and remove some of the excess material. lots quickly gone! The key here is to remove material with caution but with confidence. Taking the tips down to the limb is easy but it is also easy to cut in to the limb. Any experienced bowyer will tell you it takes one second of carelessness to ruin 50 hours of work.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0991.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0993.jpg)
and then you need to know when to switch from power to hand tools. At least I still need them. And there are ways that I use to protect my investment. Just in case I slip ... I'm just sayin...strapping tape is your friend.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0995.jpg)
a few moments with the sanding block brings the tip overlays and string pads in to line with the limb.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0997.jpg)
During the process I felt a little catch on the sand paper. If you see this...
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0998.jpg)
it means you raised a sliver of glass. Be careful. Not only is it an instant splinter to a careless finger but it can also peel away from the edge of the bow and really do some damage. I touch them with a little bit of CYa and then sand them down with the rest of the limb. I do not let them remain un tended.
Here I am feathering the string pad to the limb. I use the grinder to get it close and then a sanding block.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN0999.jpg)
pete
Lookin good Pete!!
I always throw the leftover in if it won't make another pr of good lams!!
I had to quit the post cause of the max number of photos. Now to continue...
It was time to start shaping the nock>>>>>>> First I file the existing nock grove in to the phenolic and string pad. Then I start the round over. Here one side has the original nock grove, the other showing the round over.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN1000.jpg)
Here is the rough shaped nock from the back showing the string pad.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN1001.jpg)
after it is roughed in I use a string to position the string groves! Wow what a concept!
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN1004.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN1002.jpg)
and then some file work.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN1003.jpg)
Now that the riser is finished and the nocks are smooth it was time to get the bow outside.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN1009.jpg)
and see how it shoots. One then another...then another. Each time I shoot a bow for the first time I am always leery expecting something to go wrong. after about 10 shots one at a time I decided to shoot a group. With a passel of un matched arrows this is what I got.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/ferrett/DSCN1010.jpg)
Not bad considering the mix at 20 yards. Two of those are broad heads. After a few more it was time to start the finishng process.
Unfortunately I have not photos of the finished bow. I can tell you this. I got 5-6 coats of poly on the bow. The riser looks soooo cool. It's all black ya know. Don't worry pics of the finished bow will be here. You just will have to wait to see why I nicknamed her the BLACK HOLE> I bet Les gets a pic up on Thursday!
Thanks for following along. There is still a bit to come and the hunt to follow so, check back.
pete
Not bad for a bunch of woodies and carbons
Very cool thanks for taking for putting a little more light into the bow. Looking forward to meeting you all.
The Bows are in Jacksonville, FL as of 10:57 this morning
3:24 Left Jacksonville. Still on time.
Will it make it?????
pete
What is this! IT is 2:46, the bows were delivered at 2:02 and no pictures? Man is it hard to get good help these days>
oh, I bet you got swallowed in to the Black Hole when you opened the box. In case you are hanging out on the lanai the box is at your front door. :bigsmyl:
pete
Sorry I got caught up at School. So Pictures I guess is what is needed. S0 here we go.
Waiting on my front step.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000432.jpg)
Pete wraps a mean box.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000433.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000434.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000435.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000436.jpg)
So far so good. All look to be in good condition on the outside.
Looking at the shapes I sure Rany's Bow is in here somewhere
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000438.jpg)
I have gotten through all the Uline wrapping tape.
Thought I would show you how Pete protects his limbs and tips. They are protected by insulation piping, wrapped in carpenters paper and secured with Uline wrapping tape.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000441.jpg)
Except for one he must have run out. I am having a devil of a time getting through the masking tape. I'll get it eventually/here are the risers I can show you.
Guess the masking taped bow is Randy's.
I'll geter done as soon as I get back.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000440.jpg)
Les you are as bad as Hogdancer and Charlie!!!!!!!!!!! I'll check back in a few days
Dibbs on purple heart!
pete
I'm back but..unfortunety left the camera on and drained battery... Charging now so I can get Randy's bow pics up in about an hour.
While I'm waiting for battery to charge I am going to make up a string for my new longbow..
That purple hear bow is a looker for sure well heck they are all lookers.
I am with Michael though you are as bad as Thomas and Charlie lol.
Hey Les ... time to show the bow :banghead:
Come on we are children in toy stores here!!! We need to see it!
And what is the red in the one in the middle??
Pete you can have the Purple Heart..NO WAY can I draw it appropriately. Got the string made and decided I better check out my new longbow.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000455.jpg)
Shooting mixed arrows at 15 paces no nock. There are 4 in the block.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000451.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000452.jpg)
Up close..
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000453.jpg)
Great job Pete.
Now what you have all be waiting for.
some tips
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000442.jpg)
little bit of limbs
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000443.jpg)
Some Risers
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000444.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000445.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000446.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000447.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000449.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/2010/randy/P1000448.jpg)
I will post more pictures of Randy's bow tomorrow strung and in the sunlight.
That is amazing. Pete very fine work sir.
Wow are those some great looking bows....happy to be a foster home for 1 or more if you ever need :bigsmyl:
Very nice Pete .... thanks Les ... lucky Randy :jumper:
Those are some awesome looking bows. Fantastic job. I love em all. I imagine bow hunters heaven must look something like that.
----------
Andy
Don't argue with idiots. They will pull you down at their level and once you're there they will beat you up.
Thats a beauty nice work Pete. I am sure Randy will do it justice in FL.
But after watching this build I'm sticking with selfbows, man that was a lot of work, selfbows are a heck of a lot easier.
Got the bow out side by itself.
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/P1000462.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/P1000463.jpg)
(http://i261.photobucket.com/albums/ii45/heilakka/P1000465.jpg)
SWEET!!!!
Great lookin bows Pete! You are lucky Randy!
chip, did i tell you there is a new purple heart riser waiting to go on the bow form when I get back from FL. wonder who that could be for? By the way this is pete using Les' computer in Fl.
Pennsysltuckey pete
Guys let me say the bow is awesome. I did not get to hunt with it this trip. There was some technical serving issue and having blown up a bow with a broken string I did not want to chance hurting this wounderful work of art. If you are wondering if this bow shoots as good as it looks. IT DOES. Order one from Pete.