I have two 1 x 6 pine boards and a 1 x 10 board. I have measured three inches down from the top on each end of the board to put reflex in the staves. I used a flexable board to draw an arc from one end to the other. I plan to cut this out on the two boards and fasten them together and then the two onto the 1 x 10.
Does anyone have any suggestions before I start cutting?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v210/BonaGlass/videos520.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v210/BonaGlass/videos521.jpg)
I don't know if these pics will help.
I have a continuous arc from the center of the handle to the tips.
I think I need something added to make it 2" wide.
Bona,
When I made a caul for doing reflex I cut a 2x4 with about the same arc your using.
I need to put me a good stiff piece across the back kinda like it looks like your doing. Just the 2X4 works pretty good for putting some reflex in though.
Thanks Kris, just wanted some confirmation. :)
You got it. Get to cuttin'. I've been working that pile of osage down from last weekend. Getting tired :)
that will work.if it was me I would also put something elso on to widen it a bit,but if it only reflex and you alreadt have straight wood then it will work fine. I also like to add a board on the side that gives me something to clamp side to side.
I thought maybe a 1/2 in. plywood piece between the two boards to make it a full 2" wide would be ok.
I do want to straighten a limb so the string will track better.
I have taken the propeller twist out of one limb using dano's method of using steam, a vice grip and a heavy bucket. But I don't see a way other than a caul to make the string track.
That'll work. My first caul was 3 layers of 3/4" plywood laminated and screwed together.
I would use the plywood to add some extra width. I make my cauls out of three 2X8's or 2X10's. I make a profile line then scribe a line two and a half inches wider. After I cut it out I make a copy of it, then a copy that is twice as wide. Then screw them all together. The taller one lets me clamp sideways. Good luck.
Yep. Exactly what I had in mind, to laminate and screw the layers together. Thanks guys!
One advantage of having your caul a little wider is you can adjust for crookedness along the lenght of the bow more easily, without having to use as many spacers. I've added thickness, and a heal to mine over they years to the point it must weigh 50#. I used 2x and 1x pine.
at least 3in wide is easy to work with,,,I have 10 forms that are 6in wide for working real crooked wood,,
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v210/BonaGlass/videos557.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v210/BonaGlass/videos558.jpg)
Here is my new caul and picture of it with a bow in it that has a very mild "C" shape to it that I would like to get out.
I steamed it for about an hour and put it immediately into the caul, and let it set overnight but it still has the "C" shape.
I will let the moisture stabalize and try it with a heat gun.