Ok guys I've got a healthy number of rattler skins in my freezer so I figured I would try a couple on a bow. Does anyone know how to prep them ie air dry, salt, snake tan??? I would love to see the progress if anyone has pics.
Thanks! :archer:
scrape 'em and glue 'em. You can also air dry them if needed.
I would not tan them. Everything I've read here says notto use tanned skins for a bow.
Kris
Do as John said! Don't salt them either.
I've only skinned 2 bows. I skinned the snakes and scraped all the flesh off. Stapled them to a board flesh side up and let them air dry. Both bows turned out fine. Used contact cement on one and TB 111 on the other. I probably would not use the contact cement again unless the back was very straight and flat. Paul
I never thought about not salting them...we have such a problem with flies and such that I have always tacked them to a board with the flesh side up...salted the heck out of them, and then let them dry. I have always just wet them good before gluing with TB2 and never had any problems...guess it worked because I didn't know any better... LOL.
Bob
send some to me and I will test em for you. :-)
Be sure to post some pics. I'm going to keep an eye out for snakes this year...I want to try them as a back also!
Thanks guys, it'll be a while but I'll do it!
If you don't get all of the salt out of the skins they will collect moisture from humidity and can rot the skins.
As far as APPLYING the skins.........read dis!
Apply Skins (http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000062)
from what i know ya just scrape the fat/meat off them and dry them.im sure some people salt them regularly but if you do youd have to get all the salt out to keep it from sucking up moisture and it may not allow the glue to stick right.if you plan on using a finish like tung oil or CA id dye the wood that will be behind the skins,they tend to go translucent with these finishes.its not a problem really as long as you dont stretch the skins too much while gluing them up,cus the skin in between the scales is what goes translucent.they look awesome if finished with tung oil despite the hazard, just steel wool and/or sand between coats. (http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o406/p0go333/100_0354.jpg)
that pic isnt great but you can see the spaces between the scales. it also shows that its pretty smooth. i got like 10 light coats of tung oil on these.sealed the edges with superglue/CA and smoothed it over with light sanding and steel wool.i used tbIII to glue them on
I leave my shop door open in the summer and to prevent the flies buzzing my shop and skins I use salt!
Pin the skin to a thin board and salt it down real good!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/6snakeskin.jpg)
After a few days in the hot building the pins are removes and the skin is scraped free of salt.
Wait till the wife aint looking and sneak the skin to the bathroom sink and shut the door. If the wife asks,,, tell her you're shaving or something to keep her at bay.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/ApplicationofblacksnakeonLocustbow1.jpg)
A good dose of dawn dishwashing liquid and some warm water will remove the remaining salt and some of the skins natural fats that may hinder glue performance.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/ApplicationofblacksnakeonLocustbow3.jpg)
Now it can be patted dry with a paper towel and returned indefinitly to the shed. You can let it dry out if you wish but you'll need to soak the skin agin before applying it as a backing. It needs to be wet and plyable to form well to the bow.
The wife did catch me and would not let me bring it back in the house. Had to use a bucket in the shed.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/ApplicationofblacksnakeonLocustbow4.jpg)
Looks like I't will fit a locust stave,,, black snake on black locust?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/ApplicationofblacksnakeonLocustbow7.jpg)
Outline the bow on the skin a tab bit largere than the bow.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/ApplicationofblacksnakeonLocustbow8.jpg)
Trim out along the lines and get the pattern centered down the back.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/ApplicationofblacksnakeonLocustbow9.jpg)
A little Acetone to prepare the wood and remove dust, hand oils, etc.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/ApplicationofblacksnakeonLocustbow5.jpg)
Okay, now it's ready for glue.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/11ApplicationofblacksnakeonLocustbo.jpg)
Apply a thin tripe of TB
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/11ApplicationofblacksnakeonLocus-1.jpg)
I kinda like the hands on style
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/11ApplicationofblacksnakeonLocus-2.jpg)
Apply damp skin to back
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/11ApplicationofblacksnakeonLocus-3.jpg)
Smooth out skin with a wet finger or two and wrap lightly with an ace bandage.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/11ApplicationofblacksnakeonLocus-4.jpg)
Ditto down the other limb
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/11ApplicationofblacksnakeonLocus-7.jpg)
Unwrap the bandage a few days later
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/aalocustskinfinishing.jpg)
Clean up the skin on and around the tips
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/aalocustskinfinishing3.jpg)
Rat tail file the sides clean of skin
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/aalocustskinfinishing1.jpg)
Use some shipping tape to remove left over scales
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/Descalingskinbacking.jpg)
Lay it out in the yard to spook the wife. You should wait at least a week before trying to bend the bow after this process. The moisture from the glue and skin must dry before stringing and shooting can begin
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/aalocustskinfinishing6.jpg)
great step by step. i read your post awhile back about gathering and constructing everything to hunt with.definitly inspiring
Very cool looking! Is there any place I can buy skin to try?
I just staple them to my plywood shop door and scrape the meat real good. Then set my heat gun on the low setting, wave it back and forth till it is dry,(about 15 minutes). Take down and roll it up in a Zip- Lock till I'm ready to use.
Skinning time to bagging, 45 minutes.
I've just air dried them and I also salted one down. I won't salt them again. They did fine just air drying.
As to darkening the wood. I've only done one skin backing and it was on hickory. I colored the back with a permanent marker first then lightly sanded it to even out the color. Not sure if it helped bring out the skin color or not since it's the only one I've done but the colors of the rattlesnake skin are very clear and sharp.
Aaron
there was an article in one of the first primitive archer magazines that suggested the use of urine to clean snake skins. Has anyone else seen this article? I want to say it was in the third issue. I will check.
i havent seen that article but ive heard of using urine to shrink leather. the ammonia removes the chemicals from the tanning process and drys out the leather. id imagine it would probably help to shrivel up some of the connective membranes on the skins
I don't salt them and had a time getting a skin to stick that a friend gave me that had been salted.
I ended up taking the skin off the bow and washing it for about 1/2 hour before I could get the glue to stick on the bow.
I don't wrap my skins with an an ace bandage or gauze while they dry either, waste of time in my opinion because you only put pressure on the sides, not the back.
I spend about 20 minutes a skin pushing it down with my thumbs and working all the excess glue out to the sides and positioning the pattern as perfectly centered as I can.
By the time I have all the excess glue worked out the skin is stuck, partially dry and isn't going anywhere, no need to wrap.
Eric, I have always salted mine and never even thought about it causing a problem...ignorance is bliss...I've skinned dozens of bows with no problem. I won't use salt the next time though...now that I know better it probably wouldn't work. :) I apply them the same as you...just work them until they are well attached and then let them dry. I use a file to remove the extra skin after they are dry. I have a set of beautiful canebrake drying on a new bow right now.
Bob
ive never used bandages either, just glued 5 inches or so at a time and pushed the bubbles out as i went. salt is one of those things that some swear by, and some despise, i think its really just preference. when backing a bow with the skins though id try to remove as much salt as possible as salt is notorious for soaking up any moisture it possibly can.saw a tech show awhile back about someone out in california that was using salt as a way to remove humidity from air,while producing clean water in the process
I've only skinned one bow so far. I salted it but let it soak for a while before I glued it with TBIII. I think I'll try the 45 minute method next time. Snakes are about to come out of hiding here in GA and I need a skin for the TB Bow trade! BTW if you don't want to kill or buy skins, I found that you can order snake skin cotton fabric that looks pretty cool!
Wow guys thanks for all the help I gotta try this!!!
By the way nice step by step and great lookin bow!!!