So as you go through life in the wood shop, you certainly find yourself making jigs as often if not more often than projects themselves. I was just wondering what you guys use in your shop that makes life easier for you. My most recent lil build was turning a laminate top from a kitchen island a buddy gave me for a benchtop into a multi-station. The first was a router table fence:
(//%5Burl=http://s872.photobucket.com/albums/ab283/jonnoocha/Bowyer%20Stuff/?action=view¤t=0204001830b.jpg%5D%20%5Bimg%5Dhttp://i872.photobucket.com/albums/ab283/jonnoocha/Bowyer%20Stuff/th_0204001830b.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
I do have a few simple forms for bending and straightening selfbow staves but mostly I use a draw knife, rasp and scraper when building selfbows. For arrows, on the other hand, I made these (most) to make life simpler...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/primitive%20archer/arrowmakingtools001.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/primitive%20archer/forpa045.jpg)
Hey Pat what are the rocks used for? :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
decorations! and to throw at squirrels robbing the bird feeders.
Pat, what do you use the two bottom tools for. My guess is slots for nocks and heads.
Yes! One is a store bought needle file I use to round the sharp edges of the nock to protect the string at full draw. The other is a wire impregnated with grit for cutting ceramic tiles. I added the handle for ease of use.
That last tool is neat Pat..
My Stave vice. (http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af175/618scottm-pics/stavepress2.jpg)
Cheap and easy, Roy. Just how I like them. d;^)
ScottM
I love your vice! I will have one very soon just like it!
buy a junk saw for a buck at an auction... Av snips
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/tools/DSCN8384.jpg)
clean up with a file and sharpen and voila! I have lots of card scrapers to say the least.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/tools/DSCN8405.jpg)
Made the handle to fit the $1.99 paint scraper blade. Nice for wood on self bows.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/tools/DSCN8346.jpg)
now for footed risers
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/footed%20riser%20jig/DSCN8584.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/footed%20riser%20jig/DSCN8593.jpg)
what it makes
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/footed%20riser%20jig/DSCN8597.jpg)
Check out my lam grinder on another thread too.
pennsyltuckey
Thanks Pete.Ive got a whole $26.00 in my vice.You know I was laying in bed last night thinking I have a couple of old hand saws,I wonder if i could cut them down and make cabinet scrapers.Well you answered that question!Thanks for the idea of the snips.I wasent sure if they would cut a saw blade or not.I was going to use the plasma cutter.Snips will be easier for me to keep em square.
Pete,
I have been wondering what the term "footed riser" refered to. My brain is on overload since I started hangin here in December. Wish I could increase my ram. Can I ask what the two radius (from pivot to blade)in rough inches are for those two cuts? approx?
Thanks for the lessons,
Mike W.
That's awesome pete!
QuoteOriginally posted by scottm:
My Stave vice. (http://i1005.photobucket.com/albums/af175/618scottm-pics/stavepress2.jpg)
Hey Scott, not to sound totally dumb (when it comes to bowyerism, I totally am still) but what would I use a stave vice for? Laminating?
Not to answer your question for Scott, but this type of vice is used to hold the stave while shaping it with hand tools (i.e. drawknives, rasps, files, scrapers, etc. It serves the same purpose as a shaving horse, but takes up much less room.
Nice job, Scott. Those things go for a pretty penny over at 3 Rivers, don't they?
Scott,
Don't limit yourself to square or rectangle scrapers. you can make them curved too. Convex/concave, long and short. Also something a lot of people don't realize is that the height of the scraper changes the way the tool works the wood. Also make sure that you radius all of the sharp corners.
Good luck
teagus
as far as the radius. on of them is two size 9 kids walking shoes, the other is the length of a babys bottle plus the width of a Lego brick~! :bigsmyl: :bigsmyl: :bigsmyl:
My point is the radius is whatever you want them to be. I took my riser block and drew a rough pair of radius's on it. I then set the riser block on the floor. Next step was to take a piece of string with a pencil tied to one end. I stretched the string away from the block and started moving the end with a pencil in an arc until it closely matched the arc I had drawn on the block. When I was happy with the match I measured the length of the string from the pencil to the center point of the arc. VOILA! Spin the riser block around and repeat the process for the other arc.
By the way the actual measurements for the block that I showed in the pic are
17" for the large and 6" for the small.
pete
Thanks Pete,
I was just fast-tracking what approx. size plywood I will need to build one. Need to think this out as I am also installing a Kreg adjustable fence on 20" band saw for resawing. Also need to look up the blade width for those radius and see if I have any sharp ones left. I will work out my various rads on my autocad model of my riser.
Mike W.
"AHHHHH" Said the blind bowyer as he picked up his hammer and saw!
pennsyltuckey
the problem with a stave vice is mounting it?? any suggestions??
I have a hand sander that I made and use on my selfbows. I took a 2x4 cut it 6inches long.drilled a hole through it, then took my bandsaw and cut the 2x4 about an inch to 1 1/2 from the ends and about 3/4 inch deep then I put a carriage bolt through the block from the bottom.
i took the top piece and used a spade bit and made the hole bigger, so as to accomandate a wing nut. then I glued cork on the bottom over the head of the carriage bolt.
Thanks 4est.They are rather pricy.I had everything in the shop except the 8"c-clamp and the tubing for the mount to build one.If you had to buy everthing it would cost a little more than I had in mine.I built it out of high grade plate steel that I had left from another project.The tubing is a heavy wall industrial conduit.Not easy to come by(Ive got a friend who had a scrap in his shop).Galvanized or black iron pipe are not sized properly for a good fit inside one another.
NightHawk What are you trying to mount your stave vice to.Mine is mounted to my work bench.Works Great!I can also move it out side and slip it on to a 2"pipe,clamp it to a picknick table with two c-clamps,or 4 lag bolts.If yo have a concrete floor in your shop there are many mounting options as long as you dont mined drilling some holes.I also should clarify.The heavy wall conduit that I had trouble finding is 2.5".I welded it to the bottom of the stave vice that way I can slip it over a stadard 2" water pipe in the yard.
Well, these are more for arrow making, but they're homemade nonetheless:
Feather Grinder:
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Archery%20Tools%20and%20Jigs/HPIM3625.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Archery%20Tools%20and%20Jigs/HPIM3626.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Archery%20Tools%20and%20Jigs/HPIM3630.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Archery%20Tools%20and%20Jigs/HPIM3631.jpg)
Spine Tester:
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Archery%20Tools%20and%20Jigs/HPIM3511.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Archery%20Tools%20and%20Jigs/HPIM3515.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Archery%20Tools%20and%20Jigs/HPIM3517.jpg)
Feather Chopper:
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Archery%20Tools%20and%20Jigs/HPIM3623.jpg)
Here's an example of the finished product. These are my latest: Poplar dowels, natural LW turkey primaries, footed with brass tubing (90 grains each.)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Arrows%20and%20Quivers/HPIM3677.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Arrows%20and%20Quivers/HPIM3681.jpg)
QuoteOriginally posted by 4est trekker:
Here's an example of the finished product. These are my latest: Poplar dowels, natural LW turkey primaries, footed with brass tubing (90 grains each.)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Arrows%20and%20Quivers/HPIM3677.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Arrows%20and%20Quivers/HPIM3681.jpg)
Dude those are awesome! How do you use your feather chopper? I must admit, that little shaving vise you got is pretty sweet too.
By comparison, my router table fence doesn't even compare to some of the tools i've seen already. I'm going to have to step my game up. Pics to come!
Any chance we could get a close up of the brass footing on those shafts i like that idea
I like a LOT of weight up front on my arrows. It's based on the principle described here: http://www.alaskabowhunting.com/Three-Darts-W13.aspx
I generally get 30 grains/inch when footing 5/16" shafts with brass tubing. These things recover QUICKLY, hit hard, and are easy on targets. Plus, I find I get better penetration because the brass is more frictionless than wood, and after the diameter of the wood is less than the brass tubing, which also equals less friction. I cut them off with a tubing cutter, debur them, and secure them with a little superglue or hot melt adhesive. The tubing cutter leaves a slightly beveled edge. The is great when the arrow is going in, and is especially nice when pulling from a target as it equates to a very smooth transition.
Your arrows will increase in measured spine, but will decrease in effective spine because more weight up front has the effect if decreasing the spine when fired from the bow. I find that adding these footings is about a wash in terms of spine weight, but sure makes my arrows recovery quickly and hit harder.
Thanks i think i will give it a try. Those are some nice lookin arrows.
While working on my first bow I got a few lil tools made that helped tremendously. The first was taking some scrap 1" dowel, and zip tying sandpaper to a 8" length, and a 12" length. This allowed me to get good rapid sanding in on curves and even the flat spots of the bow. The 8" was for one handed operation, and the 12" (not pictured) was awesome for 2 handed.
I tried weighing poundage on a kitchen scale, but it was just too cumbersome. So I went to my tackle box and grabbed my digi scale, turned it on, drew to my desired draw length, and read the readout. Easy and accurate.
(//%5Burl=http://s872.photobucket.com/albums/ab283/jonnoocha/Bowyer%20Stuff/?action=view¤t=P2090834.jpg%5D%20%5Bimg%5Dhttp://i872.photobucket.com/albums/ab283/jonnoocha/Bowyer%20Stuff/th_P2090834.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
This drum sander comes in very handy at grinding the fades on a riser. The electric machine I bought for 20 bucks and the wood I got at the wood department of the supermarket for 6 bucks. The drum I made out of a piece of alu I found at work.
(http://i861.photobucket.com/albums/ab173/07Hawaii/P2260232.jpg)
----------
Andy
Wow these all look great guys, I'll be making some for sure! Hey I'm new to this has anyone figured out a way to taper a strip/stave/stick/etc. without a handtool or easier than a draw knife? I started with board bows but would like to taper and back them now and am at a loss so far!
Thanks
the drumsander is a clesco 3 x 3 inch drum that fits on a half inch motor shank cost me about $15, the other is a 12" disk sander from a garage sale for $1.
(http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy335/tawmio/IMG_0517.jpg)
(http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy335/tawmio/IMG_0518.jpg)
/Tommy
I never thought it could be so easy to make myself a drum sander till I saw these great examples. Great post fellas!!
You all know what this is i think...
(http://www.shrani.si/t/2i/zY/1cCeH3RZ/img2862.jpg) (http://www.shrani.si/?2i/zY/1cCeH3RZ/img2862.jpg)
I made this swing jig the other night, I used Ideas from several jig pics I saw..gonna make some clamps and legs like P.Petes jig. (http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt46/Robertfishes/myswingjig1.jpg)
Man I sure would love to see some more of these home made tools. I'm loving the drum sanders.
Anybody use anything other than a saw file for the nocks? I haven't found a file yet that'll do what I want it to.
Here is an adjustable form I built for laminated all wood bows. I aluminum tracks I found in a dumpster! I think they are for mounting track lights. Every post is adjustable in position for different length bows, and height adjustable for different amounts of R/D.
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bowform-3.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bowform-4.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bowform-1.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bowform-2.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bowform-5.jpg)
(http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o203/Apex-Predator/Bowform-6.jpg)
Very cool!I just may have to try my hand at a jig like yours.im going to build a couple of r/d bamboo backed all wood bows.Your jig looks like it allows for alot of adjustment.I like that idea.
heres my homemade serving jig. i use it for serving and cresting and some other stuff when i need an extra hand wrapping anything. ill hunt up all my homemade tools and post more pics. (http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o406/p0go333/100_0424.jpg) (http://i342.photobucket.com/albums/o406/p0go333/100_0423.jpg)
I just finished up a spindle sander that looks very similar to Tawmio's, pictured above. It has been on the back burner for a while but after seeing his and getting some information and encouragement from Tawmio in a PM it was settled in my mind to get it done. With a partial sheet of 3/4" veneer ply that has been in the garage for 15 years, an old, I mean 30+ years old dryer motor from a friend who had it on hand, a smooth formicatable top from the local Skyline Chili that another friend was swapping out, a 3" spindle built out of MDF, a hole saw, TTB111 and a neighbor's lathe based on BenBow's drumsander design, an 1/2" handle bolt, a rigid shaft coupler my do-it-all brother created on his sparetime (a couple of minute for him), a piece of bike innertube to cover the spindle and a $2.49 3"x3" 36 grit sanding sleeve I picked up at Grainger last Friday to top it off with allowed me to sand and mate my first ever riser cut out!
Now, feathering the riserfades and matching riser blocks together for laminated bows will not be the frustating endevour I've dealt with in the past on Bamboo backed bows.
My next project is to seal the threads on the cheap Chineese made pipe ends for the firehose clamping system. They are so course that Teflon tape alone won't seal them. That's, as we always said in the construction trades, is what they make caulk for. In this instance Black PL Polyurethaine caulk and 3 days time to set up. This product is great for many things, even resealing expensive hunting boot soles back together with.
It won't be long and I will be completely ready to start my first fiberglass bow. Its incredible how much we have to make before the bow making really begins, isn't it. Oh, I suppose I could have shelled out the $200.00 for the Rigid sander combo but where's the fun in that? (Spending the money on a tight budget, that is :D )
TTT
TTT
Mesureing board combined with a spin tester. Mesures arrow length and cresting length. Added my hand built bow rack, dont know if that counts :) .
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z399/rmd0013/IMG_0777.jpg)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z399/rmd0013/IMG_0778.jpg)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z399/rmd0013/IMG_0779.jpg)
(http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/z399/rmd0013/IMG_0564.jpg)
OK, mine aren't pretty or sophisticated, but they get the job done.
Magnetic vice pads.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/SDC13833.jpg)
Spine tester
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/SDC11483.jpg)
Feather burner
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/SDC11188.jpg)
Endless loop string making jig. Very adjustable and I can pre-stretch the string with it.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/SDC10386.jpg)
You had me at magnetic vice pads scrub-buster. Awesome idea.
Use the rare earth magnets. They are tiny, but very powerful.
here is a pic of my lam grinder. I used mdf board to build the box and a piece of ash for the sled.
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/5%20bow%20build/100_1874.jpg)
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/5%20bow%20build/100_1872.jpg)
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/5%20bow%20build/100_1873.jpg)
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/5%20bow%20build/100_0766.jpg)
Then you take your belt sander and aim it up.. put it in the box and Volaaah...
(http://i383.photobucket.com/albums/oo273/timberwolf177/5%20bow%20build/100_0759.jpg)
I have gone paper thin before (sure, it was not on purpose, but really cool!)
QuoteOriginally posted by tawmio:
the drumsander is a clesco 3 x 3 inch drum that fits on a half inch motor shank cost me about $15, the other is a 12" disk sander from a garage sale for $1.
(http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy335/tawmio/IMG_0517.jpg)
(http://i805.photobucket.com/albums/yy335/tawmio/IMG_0518.jpg)
/Tommy
hey Tommy,
where did you get the drum sander part? thank you
QuoteOriginally posted by fish n chicks:
You had me at magnetic vice pads scrub-buster. Awesome idea.
Absofrickinglutely! I'm gonna make set ASAP.
:clapper:
Anyone ever made a Drum sander with an old furnace motor? If so could you send me some info on how to do so? I had to replace the one in our furnace last winter and while waiting for the new one to get in, the guy at the hardware store rebuilt my old one and it still works pretty good. Definately good enough to use for a sander. Not well enough to depend on for keeping the pipes thawed,lol.
Here's something I found close to the original one I found by Shopnotes:
http://lumberjocks.com/YorkshireStewart/blog/3640
That should definitely give you some good ideas while listening to 94.5 the moose! Man that station plays a lot of commercials...
Here is my shaving horse. Made from rough spruce I bought from the local do-it store for about $20.
I will post a pic of my string jig later.
(http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff458/popodrake/Archery%20Photos/2011-07-11_22-23-06_655.jpg)
(http://i1236.photobucket.com/albums/ff458/popodrake/Archery%20Photos/2011-06-23_12-53-50_299.jpg)