Ok, skinned a bow tonight. Whats the best way to trim the sides? REal sharp knife? Rasp?
I use a fine tooth file, like a broadhead file....only push against the skin/limb...do not pull back up towards the skin or you will raise the skin...I always let it dry a day first...
Bob
I use a rubber sanding block with 220 grit paper, at an angle to work a nice edge.
I usually trim most of the excess off with a razor while it is still flexible then with a file and/or sand paper to finish the edge.
If you use a knife, make it a razor blade style with a brand new blade.
Thanks guys. Took the tape off this morning. Turned out great. Learned you can't overlap the handle like rawhide or silk. Scales keep it from sticking. No big deal. I plan on putting a leather handle on.
I overlap skins at glue up. Then before the glue is dry I use a razor to cut a straight line across the overlap. Remove the now loose top skin piece you cut off, lift up the top piece to be left on the bow and remove the cut peice from the bottom skin. lay the ends back together. This makes a pefect seem. Watch a wallpaper hanger,,, I do it just like that.
If you take time and have enough skin to match the pattern at the seem, you'll think and it will look like it is one skin.
When rushed for time, I'll sometimes use my 1" belt sander with real fine 400 grit paper to finish off and remove the excess skin at the profile lines or edges of the limbs.
Scales should be removed from skin before applying finish, I use shipping tape.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/Descalingskinbacking.jpg)
Ok guys, got her all trimmed and sanded. I think its an excellent job.
So, I have went over the thing like 5 times with packing tape removing scales. I then went over twice with duct tape, got some more scales off. Ran out of duct tape, and went to painters tape, and removed a tad more. So when am I done scalin if you will?
I always look over the skins with a magnifying glass for remaining scales.
I take them off with very fine steel wool sometimes too...
cool skin osagetree... rat snake?
Bob
One thing I was wanting to note. When putting snake skins over rawhide, the glue seems to setup quickly at least TB3 did.
It seems I didn't have much time to adjust the skin aroud or had to lift up at the tail end and readjust.
If I had a real snakey bow, it would have been an issue.
I bet if I was putting over plain wood it would have been easier too.
I sized the rawhide first. Just a quick sidenote. Someone said liquid hide glue would have been easier to work with.
here was the outcome
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn73/bigcountry_ky/Osage3/Snake1.jpg)
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn73/bigcountry_ky/Osage3/Snake2.jpg)
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn73/bigcountry_ky/Osage3/Snake3.jpg)
That's awesome!!
I skinned this on here last September I think. This came off a 7'5" Bull Snake that was run over by a gang truck...it's all one piece so I had to get my wife to help. I put painters tape down the sides before I put the glue on and after it dried 4 or 5 hours I used a sharp knife then sanded the sides. Like Osagetree did I used tape to lift the scales off. This is a 66" Hickory as you can see I screwed it up by cutting in a deep shelf.
(http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r268/Flinthunter_bucket/BullGrip.jpg)
(http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r268/Flinthunter_bucket/TheBull.jpg)
By the way nice Bow Bigcountry.
Man, I got to get some of those bull snakes. Thats sharp.
great job! just a note...titebond 2 is easier to work with as well...at least for me.
Bob
Me too Bob! Used TBIII once and only once.
No kiddin? Figured TBII would be simular in work time. Good to know.