I had to get at least one decent build along in over the break..so here we go. I started on this form a month or so ago. I initially wanted to create a short recurve 50" or shorter...but for some reason I got stuck on this design. It ended uo being a 56" recurve, the ends have a heavy bend (rather than a smooth arc) and the knocks are cut about 1/2" past the front of the handle.
Here is the 1 3/4" form. Made with 3 lams of plywood and I glued on a .120 hickory lam to smooth the top out.
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0769.jpg)
Skipping a few glue up photos here, but here we are with the blank. It is rough cut and sides grinded, overlays are added to the belly and tips and it has not yet been cleaned up. I am taking alot of pics of my favorite part..the shaping process.
The lam stack consists of a maple S/A lam and a Brown S/A lam and brown glass. Total taper of .002. A brown S/A riser and alterations of white glass, brown glass and walnut.
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0770.jpg)
Here I glued on the front overlays (white glass and walnut)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0771.jpg)
Now, Im ready to cut the shelf. I cut this one to center. I will generally mark out my profile, cut the shelf first, then come in on the side and creat the site window.
Looks quite ugly right now:
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0772.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0774.jpg)
Next I will take a round file and file the shelf joint. This will eventually determine how low and deep the shelf is, as after this round groove is completed I will take the rest of the material off to make it a seamles transition.
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0775.jpg)
To make that even, I will take another flat file, or a dremel tool and even it out as shown:
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0776.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0777.jpg)
Then I did my initial sand of the overlays. They will require some hand sanding later in the finishing process:
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0778.jpg)
For the tips, I used overlays of white and tan phenolic.
Rough cut, unsanded fades
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0781.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0801.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0802.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0803-1.jpg)
Now for the grip, I rough cut some excess off and then went to the spindle sander:
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0779.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0780.jpg)
After I initial sanded those overlay fades, I go back to the spindle sander and shape the grip
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0786.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0785.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0784.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0812.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0811.jpg)
For my intial tiller check, I perform the following: I make marks down the limb two inches apart starting 10 inches from center and measure the limb width and record them on the tape. I can then look at one to the other and notice where I am heavy/light or out of wack one side to the other (I often do this right after I grind the sides to determine which limb will be the bottom.
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0792.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0793.jpg)
Now for the interesting part. I was shooting the bow and doing some tillering and I just could not eliminate the hand shock...I started with 1/4" positive tiller and went to zero tiller, it got better but it was no comparison to some other recurves that I made.
My thoughts were I had too much bend near the fades...even though in the full draw pics I was taking it wasnt that evident..also the weight came in a little low.
I thought (and tell me if you think this makes sense) that if I made this a static recurve, it would not only increase the weight...but put more strain mid limb, further from the fades.
So I added brown and white glass overlays to make it static:
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0816.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0818.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0819.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/DSCN0820.jpg)
It did help...I finish tillered to zero again and it wasnt too bad. I use a light arrow when i am shooting to find the best tiller as the light arrow shows the most handshock, etc. Of course this is deminished with a heavier hunting arrow. I think next time I am going to use a longer riser on this form, and I suspect that will help.
Ok, now after countless hours of sanding, supergluing, sanding and so on...several spray coats and of TB epoxy...and a final frosty coat..it is finished.
Here are some final pics:
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/Bowerpics022.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/Bowerpics023.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/Bowerpics024.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/Bowerpics025.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/Bowerpics026.jpg)
Absolutely gorgeous!!!
What does S/A mean? as in S/A lam, or S/A riser??
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/Bowerpics030.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/Bowerpics021.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/Bowerpics029.jpg)
(http://i492.photobucket.com/albums/rr287/bjjanse/elb%20pics/Bowerpics031.jpg)
S/A = Super Action also called actionwood...it is what Bingham's and a few other bowyers call the laminated birch plywood (Rutland Plywood company makes it and calls it Stratabond).
very cool brad!! i thought the post title said "break along" and kept waiting for the explosion pic. glad i was wrong.
Dang, that is a real nice looking bow. The short ones fasinate me, never could shoot them that well, but always enjoyed building them.
Brad, once again you made another fine looking bow and a great build along to go with it. Thanks for sharing.
A beautiful bow and a bunch of great info Brad. Thanks for taking us along. :thumbsup:
GOOD LOOKING BOW!
Yeah, buddy! What a super looking bow! I love watching the riser take shape and the wood start to show its character! Awesome work.
That is an awesome bow , great work :thumbsup:
Excellent job Brad!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
I would suppose the taper rate would determine if the staticated tips would work the mid limb more or not.
Too bad you couldn't have done a trace at full draw before and after reinforcing the tips.
Thank you all.
Dang Kenny I should have traced it. I never thought about that...that would have told us for sure.
The reason I wondered is on my 64" d/r,the tip wedge made the limb bulge(by lookin at the other test bow) in mid limb,but it has .003 total taper,didn't figure you had that much in a curve...
Exceptional piece of work!
Congratulations on your efforts and perseverance!
><>
Glenn
I want it badly :)
Nick
hey brad another great one!!! well got my oil changed on the road now almos t to knoxville on my way home wanting to stop see pat b you and dean but dont think ill make it as times runnin out to be at show in denver fri take care brock p s buddy im waiting to see one them osage bows lol!
Very beautiful work! Good work ... :clapper:
Nice work Brad it came out well. Cant wait to see the other one you asked me about.
Shawn
Nice work,the colors all blend well.Did you notice any improvement in cast or speed by making the tips more static?I have been thinking about trying that on one of my bows,thought it take away from the smoothness in draw by not having the tips open.
Bill
Thanks Bill. I did notice an improvement in speed...but making the ends static inceased the weight..so I don't necessarilly have good comparable data. Additionally, I did not run this through the chrono or anything as I was primarily concerned with reducing the shock and vibration at the time to get a good shooting bow. I think If I were going to design a static recurve, I would include a thin tip wedge in the stack and maybe add one overlays to the belly for looks and to stiffen the curve a bit more. Maybe I will glue up another on this form and try that one of these days.
Very nice!!!!
Very beautiful bow! Thanks for the useful info, especially the tips static for solving the handshoack. I am more inspired to build my bow now.
Very nice work !!
Wow. The ugly duckling turns into a swan! very nice finished bow!
Beautiful Job
Beautiful bow!
so you need 1 3/4" glass and lams for this form? all of mine is 1 1/2" wide? I keep looking at it and thinking that I might like making a couple short recurves with this basic bend and static tips...like a sheepeater? with just a few mods it looks like it would work...?
Bob
Nice work
Yes Bob..This form is set up for 1 3/4 lams. I use 1 3/4 on most of my recurves.