I read that if you use TB III with stretch clamps, it will not dry. Is this true? I was thinking about using it on my bamboo bow because you don't need a hot box but I was planning on using stretch clamps for cost concerns and form concerns. If I need to leave it in the form for extra time that's okay, so long as it'll dry in a reasonable amount of time.
Thanks!
Don't wrap the bow completely in plastic. Titebond needs air to cure. I left mine in the form for 3 days.
So when you use the plastic wrap, just leave some gaps in between the wraps? Then when I apply the stretch clamps can I cover the whole bow or do I need to leave spaces in between the wraps on those too?
Go to a bicycle shop and get a(or a few) tire tubes from their trash. Generally bike shops will have plenty to share. Cut them into 1" strips and wrap your glue-up with a 1" space between wraps.
it cures slow.... i have had to go back and cut open the plastic. I have been baking mine with tb III bake for about 2 hrs with the plastic on then pull it out, let it cool to the touch. then take the bands of 1 at a time and cut off the plastic, replacing the bands as i go.
Be careful using heat with TB glues. It will break down at 150deg(F).
Thanks for all the help guys! :notworthy:
i dont think TBIII beaks down i think it realeases at 150. I usta make model airplanes to skin the wings with balsa i would coat the ribs and the skin with Elmer's wood glue (aphenitic(sp?) resin just like titebond). when both sides where dry i would take my heat iron up to 300F and just iorn on the skin gota press on it until it cools off a bit... makes a very strong bond. the glue reactivated with heat. but required pressure to stay bonded. i never tried that after a 24hr cure. just an hour or two till not glue was not tacky, if the glue was tacky it wouldn't stick... go figure.. I think dry but not cured TBIII plus heat plus pressure=fusion. i have baked all my wood test bows (TBIII), and drawn then all till they broke. never a glue failure always a limb spitting.
Oh, one more quick question, I've heard that TBIII needs a smooth surface for gluing, is this true? Do you just sand em down and glue em up?
I use tb3 and wrap with stretch wrap on backed board bows, then clamp in the r/d and no problems with glue drying.
36 grit on a belt sander is what I use when prepping for glueup
my lam grinder has 80 grit on it. (cant find anything rougher locally) I don't rough them up before i glue. smooth-on and TBIII both seem to stick to it fine. you do need a very good fit up (no gaps you can see light thru when the clamps are on) TBIII will not fill gaps.
get the blue 36 grit belts at home depot and sometimes at harbor freight
can you get it 1" wide to wrap on the drum?
don't have a drum sander so I have'nt looked for it
Alright guys, thanks. Think I got this down.
checked Homedepot today. they didnt have it.