Just a quick question. I have a stave chased dried for 4 years and ready to make a bow. Can I used dimensions similiar to osage with this wood? Can I make the bow shorter if I use a sinew backing? If I sinew back it, how many layers can I put on? Any advice would be helpful.
No, you can't use the same dimensions. What is your draw? Jawge
My draw lenght is 26 inches. Does this bow need to be wider. I am limitied to 1 1/2 in because that is all that I have.
Locust should be a bit wider but you can make it a longer to compensate. Wait until you hear back from George. BL is one bow wood I have lots of trouble with and George makes very good bows from this wood.
I'm no expert but I've made a couple of BL bows. One to hunt with and the other was a split off piece that I made a low weight bow from. The hunting bow is 65" long, 1 3/4" wide at the fades to just beyond mid-limb, then tapering to 7/16" tips. I tillered it to 29" and 55# This wasn't a really good stave but it worked. I have shot it a good bit and hunted with it one season. So far no frets. This bow is overbuilt. I flipped the tips and left them too thick and it has some hand shock, but not bad. I will use the same dimensions the next time except not carry the 1 3/4" past mid limb and will thin the tips down more to reduce weight. I also trapped the back a bit to try and reduce stress on the belly.
I've heard a lot of guys talk about BL fretting, guys who are way better at building bows than me. So I don't know if I got lucky or I just really overbuilt this one. The bow did take some set but I did take my best buck with it.
Aaron
I only have 1 1/2 at my widest point. Can I leave the bow thin and sinew back it and expect good results? Keep in mind that I have never sinewed a bow before, but I want to.
Again I'm not the bow builder that most of these guys are but with a 26" draw I would think that 1 1/2" would be fine. But what is the length of the stave and what draw weight are you looking for? If it's really short (under say 60") you may be pushing it. But if it's longer than that I would think you would be OK. It also depends on the stave itself. If it's full of knots or has been compromised in some way then it may not work out.
I'd say just try it out and see what happens. I've never done sinew back either but with the problems some have with BL fretting I guess it could overpower the belly and cause problems.
Aaron
The stave is about 68 in long and is very clean. I was thinking about going with 64 in and keeping the limbs 1 1/2 for about 15 in from the handle and then starting my taper. I would like to have this one around 55 to 60 lbs at 26 in.
You should be able to achieve your goal with a selfbow and especially with your 26" draw. Locust can be finicky so take it slow. Be thoughtful with each scrape, exercise well after each wood removal session and don't overstress the limbs. Take your time and if you find you are getting frustrated or confused, put it down and walk away. A clear head prevails!
Sounds like it is doable. That should give you the max width you have for the main working part of the limb. Keep us updated on your progress. I've only done a couple of BL but I like it.
Anxious to see how yours turns out. Good luck with it. Hopefully more experienced bow builders than myself will chime in and give you some good advice.
Aaron
I've experienced building several BL selfbows that performed as good as osage bows but, others built have recieved the compression fractures during tillering.
Here's a BL snakey bow I gave to a young feller years back.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/snakelocusta12.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/lsnake3.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/snakelocust13.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/Osagetree/Locustbuck14.jpg)
You can't go wider than 1.5 in so I would go longer. I'd go 66 in ntn. Jawge
I'm well on my way. I just about got it floor tillered last night. I made it 64 in long. I hope that is enough! It is wide at 1 1/2 down the limbs and then a taper the last 16 in of limb that reduces the tips down to 1/2. They are a bit wide now for string alignment pourpouses. So far so good. I really like how easy it is to work. It smells like poplar when I scrape it too. I am shooting for a 45 pounder at 24 inches. This one is going to my wife so I don't have to hear her keep asking when I am going to make her a bow. I will post some pics of my progress tonight. Thanks for all the help.
We'll be waiting those pics.
(http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss13/dvshunter/blacklocusthandle.jpg)
Here is the handle. handle is three and a half inches long and an inch and an eighth thick. The fade outs are shorter too. They are only an inch and a quarter.
a proflie (http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss13/dvshunter/blacklocustlayout2.jpg) pic
and a floor tiller pic. The limbs are still very stiff. I haven't put a scale on it et, but they feel very strong.
(http://i557.photobucket.com/albums/ss13/dvshunter/blacklocustfloortiller.jpg)
From what I can see it looks flat just below the nail and back towards the handle on the right limb. Try for better lighting for your next pic.
You can shorten your long string to slightly longer than the bow and get a more accurate reading.
1/2 inch thick is not thick enough. YOu'll need to do a glue on handle. Jawge
I've known you alot longer then your wife and Im still waiting on my bow you said you were going to make me. :smileystooges:
Jawge, How ya been? Still skin'n that lucus stuff I see. :bigsmyl: I got a couple questions for ya. First, ever heard from or seen DRT or his brother lately? Secondly, have ya hung any of your silk ties horizontally lately? :notworthy:
Hope all is well,
Cooter
Derwood is around. Saw him at pirates not a month ago. Don't know about Tonto. Derwood figgers hisself an archer, all rigged up with a metal riser bow. Threatening to come South for a IBO shoot in the summer.
You dropped off the planet Eric. Good to see you post. I think I still have a sheet of that fabric you made, filter material perhaps, we tried for backings. Seems like long ago.
1/2 inch is the tip, did you mean to say tipoverlays instead of handle? The handle is 1 1/2 thick.
I believe he thought your handle was 1/2". Your handle and tips are fine in regards to thickness.
How many rings in the stave? I ask because sometimes, say if you have 6 rings from the belly to the back of the limbs; you can use them to judge the taper or make sure you're stepping the rings down to the tips. i.e. 8 rings at the fade, then the 7th ring for 6" or so then every ring after steps down to the next ring every 6" or so until your out of limb or at the tips.
Having a good feel or plenty of experience with similar staves tells one how many rings to start with and how far apart the ring step should be to begin with or to reach a desired weight a ends result.
Black Locust usually has large rings and you may only step down one ring or not at all so be careful here! Though it looks like you are not using the facet method and are shooting for a flat bow. So you should see a ring or maybe two on the belly.
I'm sure someone else here can explain better or would advise other. Please take my direction with some reservation.
Looking back on the pic I provided you in this thread of the belly of the snakey locust I made, you can see I stepped down two rings just below the fade and then the third ring was so thick tillering did not cause it to step to another ring. Leaving the tip showing 3 rings.
Just my opinion but you need to exercise the wood alot after scrapping on the belly. Shorten your tiller string like Pat said and see where you're at.
You're doing fine! Keep us posted!
cooter, so good to see you back on the forums. I was thinking of you and the old days. DCM's been on here also. Darren is around alright. He visited me last summer to attend a local shoot-the White Mountain Traditional Bowhunters. He stayed with Joni and I for a few days. Can you believe he actually BEHAVED that is until we got to the shoot and then it was non stop laughter. Can you believe he's shooting some kind of a fancy bow and soda straw arrows? Shoots it well too. How have you been? Email me we got some catching up to do. jawge_1999@yahoo.com
Jawge
Jawge,
email sent
Cooter
Thanks, Cooter. Answered it. Jawge
I went on and glued a few pieces of leather to the handle. It took about 2 inches maybe less of set. Tiller was looking good so I finished it up and started to shoot it in and watch it settle. It is shootin well at least it was till I glued it up. My wife canlt pull it back so I might have to keep it for myself. I will post a few pics when I figure out how to do it from my new phone.
DVS, Ole Jawge got confused I thought your handle was 1/2" thick. Glad it turned out well for you. :) Jawge
I would not say good. While excersizing the bow today the handle broke. I don't know what happened. It just popped almost off. I guess I am open to options right now.
Most probably the reason your handle popped off is because your bow in bending in the handle. It doesn't take much bend for this to happen.
A couple of fixes...make your next handle riser out of thin pieces of wood stacked up in graduating lengths. This type of handle riser will flex a little and if the handle area is not bending too much, it will work. Another method is to make the handle riser out of leather, laminated to build it up. A leather handle riser like this will bend no matter how much the handle area does.
I was thinking about a leather handle. Ireallylike the look of those superglue soaked handles, but now I have been thinking about an osage handle. I have plenty of the stuff lying around.will regular carpenters wood glue work. I think it os titebond 2. I still can't decide on the grip.
I can describe how to pin the handle with dowels if you want. jawge
I'm not sure what you mean by pin the handle george.