Is there any reason to not finish a bow only using Helmsman Spar Urethane Satin? I've got some Tru Oil, but was wondering if it was okay to use just the Helmsman.
I do not make alot of bows but with the 7 I have made that is what I have used and to date have had no problems. I use the high gloss and after all coats are dry I dull it down with 0000 steel wool. I think the high gloss is a harder finish. Ollie
Looper..what I do on some of my bows is use a combination of the two items you have. First, I seal the pores and apply about 4- 5 more thin coats of tru-oil (buffing with 0000 wool inbetween). Then finish with a light coat of Helsmans satin. It works well and holds up pretty good as well.
I use just what you described with good results,but am thinkin about gloss for 4 coats and satin on the last one..
Kenny, I have done that before and it worked fine. You may as well use the satin all the way though as it fills much better than the gloss.
Kenny, as a long time furniture builder, the long term viability of using gloss/satin is less with your top coat (1st coat) gloss. It adheres better with satin first, with gloss following subsequent coats. There are particulates in satin made of silica that allow a better bond with a secondary coat of gloss on top of that. The satin also will adhere better to the wood than gloss will. As Ollie stated, it works great by dulling the gloss down with steel wool.
Rock
That really goes against what most of us have been doing. Thats what I love about this forum learn something new everyday. Any effects on the clarity of the wood underneath?
Hey Rock,
Is it true that a gloss finish has no dulling agent, so it is a harder finish? And if I read you right, the satin or dull will adhere better?
I have always been told that a gloss is a harder finish but never heard about one sticking better than the other.
Thanks.
Chuck
TT, I've heard the same that gloss is harder.
How about something to go over an already finished bow as a hand rubbed finish? I have a coat of Johnsons paste wax on already...seems to be doing ok...nothing to warrent the effort so far. Going to put on 3 or 4 more coats and see how things look. Any idears?
There is no significant clarity change that can be seen by the eye with satin being underneath. One particular reason for doing it this way is; temperature change, which can weaken the bond of a harder substrate cracking your finish and lifting up from its bond. Humidity change only influences this process more. There is no reason to change the way your doing it if it works though.
AKDan, I've done lots of furniture pieces and several bows with hand rubbed finishes. (my favorite) take two parts tung oil, one part boiled linseed oil,one part mineral spirits (thinner)mix and apply liberally. wipe off excess or use 1200 grit wet-sand to make a slurry with wood (which fills the pores), let set for a day. start applying coats while rubbing with a cotton cloth till your arms give out. If you do it long enough it will turn into a piece of glass. beautiful finish! Worth the effort though.
Chuck, your right. The gloss is a harder finish, and the satin does stick better.
QuoteIs there any reason to not finish a bow only using Helmsman Spar Urethane Satin
All I use is helmsan urethane, gloss or satin. Helmsnan by itself is just fine.
Sorry looper,
Helmsman will work as a stand alone. I did have a problem with it setting up one time about 6-8 years ago. thats when I switched to a 2 part finish. Good luck.
Thanks for the input Rock
Dan R,
I was looking for something to shine up the bow..maybe a wax. The bow itself is already a finished bow. I like a glossy bow!
I've tried johnson paste wax in a couple of coats with no noticable change to anything but the riser and tip overlays...they did shine up some after each coat.
I had a bow dipped with orange camo, should I put urethane over it to protect it? thanks