So i picked up a 50$ ols 12" Craftsman band saw today. it has a ~14 TPI 3/8 inch blade on it. The blade burned 1.5" maple, i did manage to take a 18" long 1/8 inch think sliver off a 3/4 in oak board. The saw accepts up to a 1/2 blade, so the question is what width and TPI do i want for
a) cutting thin lams for riser
b) cutting curved lines in riser/form?
I'm no expert, and often have to ask these same questions. I use a 1/2" blade with 4 tpi. They work great for what I do, but dull quickly. I need to break down and buy a carbide blade. Unless you have a carbide blade, glass will ruin any blade you try cutting it with.
thanks marty, i am going to go by sears on the way home from work.
I also have an older 12inch Craftsman bandsaw. I bought a set of cool blocks and a 1/2 inch 4tpi carbide blade for it. I have cut some glass and phenolic with it but not alot. I use a belt sander with a 50 grit belt to shape my limbs,it does this very fast. I use the band saw to make my riser cuts so it does cut a little fiberglass, so far it seems to be as good as new. if you use the search function and type in bandsaw blade you will get more info
Make sure you tune the saw correctly too. Suffolk Machinery has some good info on their site. You can have a great blade but if the saw isn't tuned, it won't cut worth a crap. I'd go with 4 TPI 1/2" blade too. http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six_rules.asp
They also sell Timberwolf silicon steel blades, when you're ready to step up. Nice folks to deal with too.
I second the timberwolf silicon steel blades.
Top notch. Cut very straight and last for a long time. With a properly set up bandsaw.
I do not use my bandsaw to roughf out my limbs, choose to grind which saves the blade. I also cut my sight window out before gluing up the bow. I wrap the part I cut out in plastic and put back into the riser section, after gluing I have been able to get it out without too much trouble. Only problem it predetermines which will be the lower limb. By adjusting one of my tapers I am able to make the desired limb stronger. Just how I do it and it saves on blades.
Thanks for all the input guys. i tuned the band saw the best i could. then trued up my riser block (its 2 3/4 maple boards together) I was able to take wood off in less then1/16" passes checked it with a level and square, came out true.. Next to cut the bend in it for the ipe inlay...
oh starting out with 1/2 4 TPI cheep sears blade, works much better then my fathers 9" band saw with 3/16 inch blades
Rule # 1 don't cut fiberglass!
I grind my limbs completely,switch sides so they don't get too hot.
The sears blade will work nicely for wood for a good while.