I'm looking for some advise on this stave. I've roughed out the side and belly profile, keeping extra wood where it seemed right. I need to know what to do with these areas, or if this is just firewood and a good "learning experience". Here's the first problem area: Back of the stave
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/100_1595.jpg)
Belly of the stave:
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/100_1596.jpg)
and two side views:
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/100_1598.jpg)
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/100_1600.jpg)
It's a really funky spot. Not really a knot, but not, well, I dunno. Is this area workable, and what do I do to make it survive?
Area 2 -- some cracks along the belly, from when the stave was split. The handle area is at the top of the pic, then follows downward through the fades. Total area is about a foot long:
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/100_1602.jpg)
and terminates at this knot
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/100_1603.jpg)
This is the back view of the knot
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/100_1605.jpg)
I'm sure the knot is workable by leaving extra material on the belly, and I've already followed the grain around the knot on the sides. Are the cracks workable with maybe some glue or other fix? If so, what do I do?
Thanks in advance for the replies. I really appreciate all the help I've gotten from this site and appreciate the wisdom.
That is not the worst stave I've seen, but it will give you an education. You did good with the knots, looks like plenty of wood around them. The checks, as long as they don't run off the edges will be fine with some super glue in them. If they do run off, you'll have to wrap them in sinew, to be sure. Staves like this are a great learning tool, enjoy.
Don't worry too much about the belly. The cracks there were there before the tree was cut. You can tell by the discoloration. They shouldn't be a problem but filling with super glue won't hurt either.
Staves like this can teach you a lot about wood bow building. Take your time, ask lots of questions and make it into a bow.
How about a side profile pic from each side.
I've been working on a bow from a stave that was a lot like yours. If you fill the cracks and knots with super glue and let it set before you start working it will be a big help.Lengthwise cracks like that are spooky but you can sometimes work with them. Did I mention to buy some tubes of super glue...? ;)
I like the narrow nozzle Loctite stuff myself...
Hope it works out for you. As someone here has said...
The good staves make better bows but the bad staves make better bowyers...
Tiller the knotted areas to not bend as much as the rest of the limb. The top knot in the second picture could have used some more wood around it. You could compensate by leaving a little more on the belly. I hope you are using a tillering tree and not a tillering stick. LOL. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/
Jawge,
I'm using a tiller tree, not a stick. I've got a rope/pulley system so I can stand back at a safe distance, just in case! You never know with these self bows!
And, yes, I agree I should have left more on the sides of the funky knot, but I didn't realize how bad it was till I cut the side profile. Do you think it'll still be okay, or should I try digging some out and filling with superglue/epoxy mix? Or maybe just leave it alone and tiller with caution?
BTW, thanks for all the replies. I really appreciate the help!
LOL, Joe. I know what an exploding selfbow can do. Sure try it. Leave the knotted areas stiff. That top knot --leave some extra wood on the belly and see what happens. Make sure the knotted areas don't bend too much in relation to the rest of the limb. Take your time. This is a very challenging stave. It will teach you just listen. Jawge
A rule of thumb of mine on the belly side of knots is; depending on ring thickness of stave, try and leave at least two rings tappering around the knot on the belly side. Leave the rings left on the top of knotted belly a little longer than their width. Usualy from there you can find a good medium when tillering out the bow. Sometimes, I find when I remove both rings left behind; it is still the best tiller. These extra rings are still a good safety measure until you know for sure its gonna bend just like the rest of the bow does.
I feel if it don't bend and hold on the t-tree to a greater extent than I would ever bend the wood under normal use,,, then I don't want that one for any bow, for anyone!!!!