I have received so much knowledge from all of the posters on here, I thought I would try to contribute something. This will be my fourth bow. I have built one in each of the previous three years. The first was a recurve. The next two were longbows. This one will be another recurve. It will be black glass with a red elm core. The riser is charcoal Dymond wood.
(http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/7969/001sf.jpg) (http://img15.imageshack.us/i/001sf.jpg/)
First, I draw a centerline completely around the block.
(http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/6540/003qf.jpg) (http://img10.imageshack.us/i/003qf.jpg/)
Next, I use a template to draw the riser shape.
(http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/8084/004zf.jpg) (http://img10.imageshack.us/i/004zf.jpg/)
(http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/2258/005by.jpg) (http://img10.imageshack.us/i/005by.jpg/)
Now, its time to square things.
(http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/5370/005ak.jpg) (http://img6.imageshack.us/i/005ak.jpg/)
(http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/5628/005ba.jpg) (http://img15.imageshack.us/i/005ba.jpg/)
(http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/2209/005ct.jpg) (http://img12.imageshack.us/i/005ct.jpg/)
Stay tuned for more.
John
Now that things are square, it's time to start cutting. This is the first time I've used my bandsaw in about 8 months so, I was a little nervous.
(http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/7961/006qka.jpg) (http://img14.imageshack.us/i/006qka.jpg/)
(http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/7338/007cd.jpg) (http://img6.imageshack.us/i/007cd.jpg/)
(http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/6939/008ht.jpg) (http://img14.imageshack.us/i/008ht.jpg/)
There's more.
John
Now here is something I thought was neat. I temporarily traded a friend of mine. I gave him my longbow form and he gave me his recurve. Along with it, I got this template. It is used with a router to true up the riser. He made this. He is a woodworker/master craftsman. I swear, I think he could build a house with nothing more than a router and a rock...you need something to pound nails.
Here is the template.
(http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/9310/009xo.jpg) (http://img29.imageshack.us/i/009xo.jpg/)
Put the riser on the template and line up the centerline.
(http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/3959/010pa.jpg) (http://img4.imageshack.us/i/010pa.jpg/)
Screw it in place. I had to drill a small pilot hole.
(http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/4903/011la.jpg) (http://img6.imageshack.us/i/011la.jpg/)
Then, clamp template with riser to my makeshift workbench. It was designed to sit in a vice but, I don't have one.
(http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/8871/013fk.jpg) (http://img12.imageshack.us/i/013fk.jpg/)
As you can see in this image, the riser protrudes from the edge of the template. It is this material that we will be removing.
(http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/722/014jgu.jpg) (http://img14.imageshack.us/i/014jgu.jpg/)
It is designed to be used with a template cutting bit. I don't have one and didn't want to pay more than $40 for a 2" bit so, I used a standard 2" straight cutting bit with a 1/2" shank. The cutter head is also 1/2" in diameter. This allows me to chuck it a little long and use the shank as the bearing. It glazed the template a little but, it's barely noticeable.
(http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/6907/015mf.jpg) (http://img6.imageshack.us/i/015mf.jpg/)
Now, I'm off to the disc sander to fix something. I'm not a skilled router operator. As I was doing this step, I allowed the router to tilt ever so slightly and it gouged a little. A few passes with the sander and it is good as new.
(http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/5983/017as.jpg) (http://img12.imageshack.us/i/017as.jpg/)
Stay tuned for more.
John
Now, to drill the hole for the locator pin. This will hold the stack steady on the form while I'm putting everything together. The wasted portion of the riser block was brought back into action for this step. It did a wonderful job of holding the riser level and plumb while drilling the hole.
(http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/9044/016ko.jpg) (http://img7.imageshack.us/i/016ko.jpg/)
I think I drilled a 1/4" hole. It was just big enough for my high tech locator pin(cil).
(http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/1609/017js.jpg) (http://img12.imageshack.us/i/017js.jpg/)
Next, I'm laying out all the laminations.
(http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/9320/018sc.jpg) (http://img12.imageshack.us/i/018sc.jpg/)
I stack the first piece of glass and the tapers. I them tape them to hold them in place while I drill a hole through them.
(http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/3238/019ib.jpg) (http://img15.imageshack.us/i/019ib.jpg/)
It's off to the drill press again.
(http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/2838/020hk.jpg) (http://img12.imageshack.us/i/020hk.jpg/)
I don't want to hear any crap from the safety geeks. I know my fingers were too close to the bit. I'll do better in the future.
I then taped the shiny side of the glass with high temperature masking tape. I actually taped it before I drilled it.
(http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/7273/022bg.jpg) (http://img7.imageshack.us/i/022bg.jpg/)
(http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/2558/023nn.jpg) (http://img15.imageshack.us/i/023nn.jpg/)
Then, everything went into the oven to warm, including the Smooth-On.
(http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/1409/025yy.jpg) (http://img4.imageshack.us/i/025yy.jpg/)
Stay tuned.
John
Now it's time to do a little prep work. I roughed up the glue sides of all the pieces with some heavy grit sand paper (something like 60, I think). I also drug a hacksaw blade across the glue surfaces of the riser to rough it up a little extra. Then, I took an airhose and blew everything off and finished with a course brush.
(http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/4396/026zx.jpg) (http://img7.imageshack.us/i/026zx.jpg/)
It was at about this time that I realized that I didn't have anything to use as a pressure strip. I looked around and found an old roll of flashing that I had from when I built the house. It was too flimsy so, I cut four, 2" wide strips. I stacked them on top of each other and taped it well with the high temperature masking tape. I made two straight passes on the full length and then spiraled another pass down the length. I think it worked fairly well.
(http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/9620/026ahg.jpg) (http://img29.imageshack.us/i/026ahg.jpg/)
Now, I had to lay everything out again and clean it off again. This time, I laid it in the order that it would be assembled.
(http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/233/027vu.jpg) (http://img6.imageshack.us/i/027vu.jpg/)
It was then that I noticed the Smooth On cans. One was significantly dented and the other was slightly. This is the fourth order from Bingham's and the fourth time the cans were damaged. What do they do, have the UPS man kick these from Ogdon, UT to Southeast Ohio?
(http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/4888/028rn.jpg) (http://img6.imageshack.us/i/028rn.jpg/)
Now to mix the epoxy. I have been saving a few old containers despite my wife's efforts to throw them out. Also, they have handy little scoops in them that I just knew I would find a use for someday. Here they are in action. I mixing in a big plastic lid.
(http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/5514/029dq.jpg) (http://img15.imageshack.us/i/029dq.jpg/)
(http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/3064/030zt.jpg) (http://img14.imageshack.us/i/030zt.jpg/)
(http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/1697/031nf.jpg) (http://img6.imageshack.us/i/031nf.jpg/)
There's still more.
John
Time to start gluing it up.
I used shims to do the mixing and spreading.
(http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/8430/032mu.jpg) (http://img4.imageshack.us/i/032mu.jpg/)
(http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/7653/033vi.jpg) (http://img15.imageshack.us/i/033vi.jpg/)
And now, it's finally in the form. I sorry there are no pictures of putting it in the form but I had epoxy on my hands and didn't want to handle my camera. I previously covered my form in tape and then a couple layers of plastic wrap. After building the bow, I held tension on it while my wife and daughter helped tape it in place. I covered it with another layer of plastic wrap and laid the pressure strip on it. Next, the pressure hose. I then used rope to bind the hose to the form. I double wrapped it. I, personally, like two piece forms but, since I was borrowing this, I couldn't be choosey. This last picture is a composite of 4 different images. They didn't line up perfectly but, you'll get the idea.
(http://img6.imageshack.us/img6/7663/compositek.jpg) (http://img6.imageshack.us/i/compositek.jpg/)
I put it in the oven and let it bake.
It's now 1:00 AM and I just went down and shut the oven off. It baked for 5 hours. Tomorrow morning, I'll let the air pressure off and then when I get home from work, I'll unwrap it and see what I have.
I was speaking with a high school friend of mine. I told him that I had just put the bow in the oven and would not know what I had until I pulled it out. He said that is just like his wife's cooking. I don't think she was around when he told me. lol
Dang! It's after 1am. I have to get up in four hours! Ughh...tomorrow will be fun.
L8R,
John
Thnaks for sharing, I picked up some good tips I can use making my first glass bow. Kirk
How did I miss this?!
Great build along. The one glaring idea that shines out is your use of aluminum coil stock. I've been meaning to go purchase a pressure strip but no time and little mula has kept me from it. BUT, having built a number of homes in the past and recently trimming out my brother's place in aluminum I've got all the pressure strips I need! I'll slice the metal to the proper width and length, and using the brake, will make the necessary folds for the stiffness.
Thanks for the heads up.
Hocking Hills is such a pretty place. Great trails for hiking and horse riding, too. The hunting looks awesome over there.
BTW, how did the bow turn out once out of the oven?
We need more pics I'm wanting to see the outcome of this one. Its looking good and I like your buddy's router idea.
Shawn
Remember, before putting too many folds in the aluminum that it has to conform to the shape of the form.
Hopefully, I'll be posting more pictures this weekend. My real job keeps me from working on it during the week.
One of my shooting buddies started making his the other night. I took some pictures of his build also.
I turned the oven off after about 5-5 1/2 hours and left the bow in the form and in the oven so it would cool slowly. The next morning, I let the air out of the pressure hose. When I got home that night, I pulled it off the form. It looks good but, I haven't checked it thoroughly. I removed all of the epoxy boogers that I could remove by hand. Saturday, I'll put the sanders to it.
The Hocking Hills are great. I've lived in this area my entire life.
L8R,
John
What about using vinyl clad coil trim (used to wrap wood when doing vinyl siding) for a pressure strip? Anyone know if this would work well? Nice build along.
Talondale, I think the aluminum part of the trim is only .019 and not likely stiff/strong enough to do the job? also the vinyl part may soften from the heat and become a problem??? I have some 1/16" x 1 1/2" x 36" aluminum I was thinking about using. I have been using the galvanized metal pressure strips from Binghams, they work very nicely.
I've used the vinyl covered coil stock in the past on houses. Put some under a lamp to see if it can withstand the heat. If so you should be good to go.
The Yankee Ingenuity of OH Longbow was to sandwich 4 strips together to get the thickness and strength needed. One of these days I'm going to get all my tools and forms put together.
Finally, I got a chance to upload some more pictures. Since I wasn't able to get any pictures of the bow in the form when I glued it up, here are some before I took it out. It shows how I used the rope to hold the hose. And before anyone says anything, Yes, those are wheelie bows on the wall...mine and my daughters. The change over is happening slowly but, trust me, it's happening.
(http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/6364/img8757lr.jpg) (http://img21.imageshack.us/i/img8757lr.jpg/)
(http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/1302/img8759lr.jpg) (http://img198.imageshack.us/i/img8759lr.jpg/)
I let most of the air out this way. Then, I take a valve core remover and let the rest out. While the valve core is out, I roll the hose and then reinstall the valve. This makes the hose lay nice and flat and is easier to store.
(http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/5505/img8760lr.jpg) (http://img10.imageshack.us/i/img8760lr.jpg/)
Here is a shot of my homemade pressure strip. So far, I have removed the rope and the hose. As you can see, I used plenty of tape. My wife and daughter were very helpful in helping me get it taped nice and tight.
(http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/7474/img8761lr.jpg) (http://img35.imageshack.us/i/img8761lr.jpg/)
Next, I cut all the tape. I then removed the tape and plastic.
(http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/9509/img8762lr.jpg) (http://img198.imageshack.us/i/img8762lr.jpg/)
Here she is in all her glory...boogers and all.
(http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/8706/img8763lr.jpg) (http://img35.imageshack.us/i/img8763lr.jpg/)
(http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/970/img8764lr.jpg) (http://img10.imageshack.us/i/img8764lr.jpg/)
Tomorrow, I'm going to start cleaning the epoxy off it.
Here's my buddy starting to work on his. He is building the same bow but, wanted accent stripes in his riser.
(http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/9261/img8767lr.jpg) (http://img34.imageshack.us/i/img8767lr.jpg/)
(http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/1033/img8768lr.jpg) (http://img34.imageshack.us/i/img8768lr.jpg/)
(http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/6687/img8769lr.jpg) (http://img34.imageshack.us/i/img8769lr.jpg/)
After putting it together, we used two pipe clamps to hold it. The only problem was it wouldn't fit in the oven and lay flat. I used two clamp lights with 100W bulbs, surrounded by aluminum foil. I let it bake for about 6 hours before turning the lights off. The next morning, I took the clamps off. It looks like it turned out pretty nice. It still needs to be cleaned.
L8R,
John
Great post! I like the idea of the riser side mounted with the template to route off the excess.
And I think the open top form (while not your favorite) is still darn cool.
Can't wait to see the gem in those boogers!
Finally, I have a chance to continue posting some photos.
Here it is with all the epoxy still on it.
(http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/6489/img8772lr.jpg) (http://img36.imageshack.us/i/img8772lr.jpg/)
Here it is afterwards. As you can tell by the photos, I moved outside for this step. Please don't take any shortcuts on this step. Take your time and go slowly. You don't want to get into the wood. You just want to remove the epoxy. Wear a respirator and use your dust collection system. I don't have one since I destroyed my shop vac so, I did it outside with the prevailing wind at my back.
(http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/5325/img8773lr.jpg) (http://img17.imageshack.us/i/img8773lr.jpg/)
Now its time to peel the old tape off and re-tape. I wish I had used the blue painters tape. This stuff was really stuck on. I took my time and it did come off.
(http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/9167/img8775lr.jpg) (http://img17.imageshack.us/i/img8775lr.jpg/)
For the re-tape, I used the painters tape. It is a lot easier to remove. I didn't have any 2" tape. I used 1 1/2" on the belly of the bow but, as luck would have it, I ran out. I then pulled out the 3/4" for the back. I had to make 3 passes in order to get the coverage.
(http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/7839/img8777lr.jpg) (http://img17.imageshack.us/i/img8777lr.jpg/)
Here it is completely re-taped and ready to cut the limb tips to length.
(http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/8547/img8778lr.jpg) (http://img36.imageshack.us/i/img8778lr.jpg/)
Here is a jig for marking the limb tips. The top of the jig is the cut-off line. The bottom is for the the string groove.
(http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/8463/img8780lr.jpg) (http://img16.imageshack.us/i/img8780lr.jpg/)
Here the limb is after being marked. I marked both sides of the limb and made sure they lined up before cutting.
(http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/1199/img8781lr.jpg) (http://img34.imageshack.us/i/img8781lr.jpg/)
Here it is, cut to length. It's getting closer to being an actual bow. I used a hack saw to cut it. I could have used the bandsaw but, it would have been a little clumsy. The hacksaw was just as quick.
(http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/7541/img8783lr.jpg) (http://img36.imageshack.us/i/img8783lr.jpg/)
More to come.
John
Now, its time to mark the centerline. In order to do this, I use two different methods and cross check them. The first is with my scribe. I used to work for a master carpenter right after I graduated from high school and periodically for a few years after that. This is one of the first tools he advised me to buy, right after a hammer, nail apron, WOODEN rule, and a steel tape. I set the scribe at 1" and then move it along the length of the back of the bow. I then flip it over and mark it again. The lines should be in the same place.
(http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/382/img8785lr.jpg) (http://img16.imageshack.us/i/img8785lr.jpg/)
(http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/1036/img8788lr.jpg) (http://img34.imageshack.us/i/img8788lr.jpg/)
The second way I mark the center line is with the use of a laser. I mount it to the top of my power rack and shine it down onto the bow.
(http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/5452/img8800lr.jpg) (http://img17.imageshack.us/i/img8800lr.jpg/)
When using this method, I first mark two center dots, one on each end of the riser in the area of the fades. I then put it under the laser and line the two dots up with the laser. This then gives you the entire center line of the bow. I then make a mark every couple of inches, continually verifying that I haven't moved the bow. Upon completion of this, I use a straight edge and connect the dots. This method works best on a long bow because it lacks the radical curves on the end of the limbs. If the recurve bow is not perfectly flat, it will screw up your limb tips. The center line on the flatter portions may be correct but, as the limbs turn verticle, they'll be off.
When I laid the bow down, it confirmed that my pencil mark was correct.
(http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/9690/img8801lr.jpg) (http://img36.imageshack.us/i/img8801lr.jpg/)
After marking the centerline, its time to mark the outline of the finished limbs. I didn't care for the pattern my friend gave me so, I used posterboard and traced the limbs of my current recurve. Just line up the centerline and mark away. I then flip the pattern and re-mark the same limb. This will negate any differences in the sides.
(http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/1213/img8790lr.jpg) (http://img3.imageshack.us/i/img8790lr.jpg/)
Now its time to go to the bandsaw. Make sure you put your crappy blade on. But, don't worry, if you forget, you'll now have 2 crappy blades...lol
(http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/9026/img8793lr.jpg) (http://img85.imageshack.us/i/img8793lr.jpg/)
Now, here it is looking more like a bow.
(http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/6572/img8795lr.jpg) (http://img132.imageshack.us/i/img8795lr.jpg/)
With the respirator on, I start to sand again. This time, I sand it to the limb outline on both sides of both limbs. I start at the riser and work towards the limb tips. This also evens out my saw cut. Here's one with my dog in the background. His name is "Arrow". It's actually short for Aragorn, from the "Lord of the Rings". My wife and daughter named him. I said "Great! We'll call him Arrow."
(http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/5319/img8796lr.jpg) (http://img15.imageshack.us/i/img8796lr.jpg/)
Its now time to put a string on it. Actually, I should probably do some other things but, I'm getting anxious to see it strung. First, I file string grooves in the edge of the limb. If you're going to do this don't file them across the face, just the edge. Use the marks you made when using the limb tip jig from one of the previous posts.
(http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/3444/img8802lr.jpg) (http://img36.imageshack.us/i/img8802lr.jpg/)
I then used a stringer to put a string on it. It didn't look too bad considering this is the first string it ever wore.
(http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6058/img8807lr.jpg) (http://img15.imageshack.us/i/img8807lr.jpg/)
Here it is from the side. Man, I'm glad I save the waste portion of the riser block. That thing is handier than pockets. It makes a darn nice bow holder.
(http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/1959/img8808lr.jpg) (http://img85.imageshack.us/i/img8808lr.jpg/)
Now its time to determine which limb will be the bottom. For this I measure off the center line. I decided on 9". I doesn't really matter as long as you use the same measurement on each side.
(http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/8904/img8809lr.jpg) (http://img16.imageshack.us/i/img8809lr.jpg/)
(http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/7588/img8810lr.jpg) (http://img17.imageshack.us/i/img8810lr.jpg/)
Measure the distance from the string to the riser at the marks you previously made. The stiffer limb (the smaller measurement) will be the bottom limb.
(http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/5052/img8812lr.jpg) (http://img29.imageshack.us/i/img8812lr.jpg/)
(http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/433/img8813lr.jpg) (http://img132.imageshack.us/i/img8813lr.jpg/)
Great build a long keep it coming
This will probably be the last post for the night. I will now be doing the overlays for the limb tips. I will also add some accent pieces and extra thickness to the belly of the riser. First, I measure the areas that are going to have additional material and remove the tape.
(http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/5504/img8814lr.jpg) (http://img15.imageshack.us/i/img8814lr.jpg/)
(http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/8696/img8815lr.jpg) (http://img85.imageshack.us/i/img8815lr.jpg/)
Next, I rough up all the glue sides on the bow and each individual piece. This is for the limb tip overlays, the accents strips and the belly pieces.
(http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/7484/img8816lr.jpg) (http://img34.imageshack.us/i/img8816lr.jpg/)
(http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/1859/img8817lr.jpg) (http://img85.imageshack.us/i/img8817lr.jpg/)
Here is everything laid out. For the limb tip overlays, I'm using phenolic (white, black, red, black). For the belly of the riser, I cut a couple of 3/8" stips from the waste section of riser block. The order will be original riser, white phenolic, 3/8" strip of dymondwood, white phenolic, and another 3/8" strip of dymondwood. All of the phenolic is 1/16". It is much easier to bend to conform to the shape of the limb tips.
(http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/3461/img8818lr.jpg) (http://img17.imageshack.us/i/img8818lr.jpg/)
Here is the riser after the pieces were added. I saved you the boredom of watching me mix the epoxy. I was able to use my handy block of wood one more time. This time as a clamp block. It mirrored up to the riser perfectly for this job. It gave me two flat surfaces to clamp against.
(http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/6910/img8820lr.jpg) (http://img29.imageshack.us/i/img8820lr.jpg/)
Here is one of the limb tip overlays. The other looks just the same.
(http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/7553/img8822lr.jpg) (http://img132.imageshack.us/i/img8822lr.jpg/)
Here it is curing. I put the lights over it to supply just a little heat and to hopefully lower the humidity a little. It started raining today, after a long time without any. I don't want to add too much heat because one time I had a near disaster. While putting the limb tip overlays on one of my longbows, I used a piece of hard, black rubber between the overlay and the clamp. I was trying to protect the overlay from the clamp's hard surface. I used a 300W halogen lamp for a heat source and surrounded everything with aluminum foil. While we were working on my buddies bow, we looked over and saw smoke rolling out of the foil. I rushed over and the rubber was melting. Also, my limb tip delaminated. I put more epoxy in it and re-clamped with much less heat. It worked, but you can still see it in the fiberglass. Luckily, it is in an area mostly covered with the string.
(http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/4296/img8823lr.jpg) (http://img17.imageshack.us/i/img8823lr.jpg/)
Also, I supported the limb tips with shims and the c-clamps are also supported with shims. This minimizes the amount of torsion felt by the limbs.
L8R,
John
this is very interesting OH. Looking forward to updates!
Nick
Very nice. Some pics are red x's though.
Jim, I don't know why you're getting the red x's. All of the pics loaded for me. Sometimes, you can click with the right mouse button and choose "show picture" and they'll come up.
Here is just a small upload. I haven't done much this week. Work has been hectic.
After unwrapping the riser and the limb tips, I hit the sander again. This tool is one of the best $100.00 tools I have ever bought.
(http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/9523/img8831lr.jpg) (http://img59.imageshack.us/i/img8831lr.jpg/)
This is what it looked like after some initial cleaning.
(http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/6316/img8826lr.jpg) (http://img269.imageshack.us/i/img8826lr.jpg/)
Here are the tips. I'm just starting to shape them.
(http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/521/img8829lr.jpg) (http://img200.imageshack.us/i/img8829lr.jpg/)
Now, here is where I need some opinions. I'm thinking about cutting the curved portion off the front (really the "back", in bow speak) of the riser. I marked a line where I want to cut. It's the one that is perpendicular to the centerline.
(http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/6218/img8830lr.jpg) (http://img59.imageshack.us/i/img8830lr.jpg/)
I would then put on a piece of white phenolic, black phenolic, and then a piece of walnut. I was also thinking about putting a piece of Elk Antler on it instead of the walnut. What do you all think? BTW, I know this will have the net effect of raising my draw length by about an inch because my handle will now be set back that much more.
Looking more and more like a finished bow for some very lucky person. More pics please.
Shawn
Thanks Dmax, I'm making this for me. I plan on making it my bowfishing rig.
Here is more on the build. I was first messing around with shaping the tips a little. I used a combination of the table top belt sander, the disc sander and a file. This was just an initial rough shape.
(http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/4089/img8834lr.jpg) (http://img41.imageshack.us/i/img8834lr.jpg/)
Then, I rough cut fades in the pieces I added to the belly of the riser.
(http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/227/img8836lr.jpg) (http://img22.imageshack.us/i/img8836lr.jpg/)
I used the template to mark the riser however, I didn't photograph it. I then took the bow back to the bandsaw and started cutting the rough shape. Now, I need to let you know that although I used the word "cutting", I don't know if that accurately describes the process. It was kinda' of a burning, moaning, bending, prying process. There are a lot of things the bandsaw blade was doing but, cutting was not one of them. Needless to say, this blade is just about done. I'm going to try to cut the limbs on my buddies bow before trashing it but, I'm not hopeful I'll be successful.
(http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/9766/img8837lr.jpg) (http://img44.imageshack.us/i/img8837lr.jpg/)
I laid the template on the riser and lined it up with my cut. This shows how I off-set it so the grip wouldn't be marked quite as deep.
(http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/714/img8838lr.jpg) (http://img32.imageshack.us/i/img8838lr.jpg/)
The next series of images show the continuation of the rough shaping. I continued to use the bandsaw. I had my basement/garage filled with the aroma of burning/melting Dymond Wood.
(http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/4122/img8840lr.jpg) (http://img32.imageshack.us/i/img8840lr.jpg/)
(http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/6493/img8841lr.jpg) (http://img41.imageshack.us/i/img8841lr.jpg/)
After cutting the rough shape, I started using the sanders. I have a 1" and a 3" drum sander for my drill press. I also use my tabletop belt sander.
(http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/677/img8843lr.jpg) (http://img44.imageshack.us/i/img8843lr.jpg/)
Stay tuned.
John
Now, its time for the rotary tool. I chucked a square cutting burr. This one was already used on a couple of bows and showed the wear.
(http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/5712/img8844lr.jpg) (http://img44.imageshack.us/i/img8844lr.jpg/)
By the time I was done, it was in much worse shape. It won't hardly even cut now. I am re-thinking my choice of Dymondwood. This stuff is brutal on tools and difficult to work. I only used this tool to cut the riser shelf.
(http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/7081/img8845lr.jpg) (http://img21.imageshack.us/i/img8845lr.jpg/)
Starting to shape up a little.
(http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/348/img8846lr.jpg) (http://img33.imageshack.us/i/img8846lr.jpg/)
I can't wait to put a string on it so, I'm going to go ahead and file string grooves.
(http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/9417/img8847lr.jpg) (http://img35.imageshack.us/i/img8847lr.jpg/)
Here it is with the tape removed, a string installed and a tillering stick. You're looking at the bottom limb. It needs a little shaved from the right side but, I'm going to wait for now. I'm pretty sure I'm going to re-mark my limbs and check them for proper width. BTW, I strung it and put it on the scale. It is 60# @ 29". Wow! That's way off. I planned it for 45#. I think the limbs are a little wide.
(http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/8809/img8850lr.jpg) (http://img22.imageshack.us/i/img8850lr.jpg/)
Here's the other limb. It was good.
(http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/1550/img8851lr.jpg) (http://img41.imageshack.us/i/img8851lr.jpg/)
Here are a couple of the strung profile and the riser area.
(http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/8666/img8855lr.jpg) (http://img32.imageshack.us/i/img8855lr.jpg/)
(http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/1067/img8856lr.jpg) (http://img35.imageshack.us/i/img8856lr.jpg/)
Here are a couple of more.
(http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/2043/img8857lr.jpg) (http://img44.imageshack.us/i/img8857lr.jpg/)
(http://img22.imageshack.us/img22/5126/img8858lr.jpg) (http://img22.imageshack.us/i/img8858lr.jpg/)
(http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/4475/img8859lr.jpg) (http://img33.imageshack.us/i/img8859lr.jpg/)
I couldn't just let it sit there with a string on it. Its kinda' like letting a pretty lady just sit in the corner. I put a couple (20+) arrows through it. It shot nice. No hand shock when compared to my longbows but, it did make a little more noise. The initial brace height was 8 3/4". I still have a lot more shaping to do on the riser and limb tips. BTW, I cut the limbs down a little. It is now 58# @ 29".
:clapper: outstanding :clapper: Cant wait for more.
Shawn
I like the rope trick. Never saw that one before!
pete
Nice build along and a good looking bow. I too like the use of the template and the router. If you are using spare urethane as a finish, I was given a great tip yesterday on getting a really smooth finish. The first coat should be the brush on spare urethane. After 10 minutes of drying, spray a coat of spare urethane. Per the person that gave me the tip the spray coat, re-activates the brushed on coat and results in the brushed on coat acting as a leveling agent and filling all the pin holes. He then sands starting with 400 grit and works his way up to 800 grits. I saw a bow that he had refinished with the same technique and was very impressed with the finish.
Recurvericky, I will probably use Minn Wax spray on polyurethane, satin finish. I have used that on my last 3 bows and I like the job it does. I wonder if it would work the same. I have a can of the brush-on. I might give that technique a try.
John
I would think it would work the same. Maybe someone else will chime in on this.
Great looking bow, can't wait to see it finished :)
OK guys, this is just a small update. I have had a cold kickin' my tail for the last week. My daughter passed it to my wife who, so graciously, passed it along to me. Today, I finally got to do some more work. I just did a little final shaping. The work had already been done prior to taking the pictures. I'm just showing you some of the tools I used.
Here is one of the many "shaped" sanders I use. Its just a piece of PVC pipe with sand paper wrapped around it. I have assorted sizes of the pipe. It works very well for the contours.
(http://img36.imageshack.us/img36/1110/img8970f.jpg) (http://img36.imageshack.us/i/img8970f.jpg/)
Here, I'm using one of my favorites. Its a piece of oak that is about 3/4" square and about 6" in length. It had sharp edges so, I wrapped it in painters tape. The sand paper last longer this way. I am using 60 grit here. I will move on to 100 then 600. In the background, you can see my other shaping tools, including files and a rasp.
(http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/9475/img8971lr.jpg) (http://img59.imageshack.us/i/img8971lr.jpg/)
Here, I'm working on the fades of the pieces I put on the belly side of the riser.
(http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/889/img8972a.jpg) (http://img16.imageshack.us/i/img8972a.jpg/)
Here's a good shot of the arrow shelf. I just about drove myself crazy trying to work this down. The Dymondwood dulled the burr in my rotary tool. I tried the rasp but, it was worthless. The square oak with sandpaper (my favorite) would plug with the dust and become unusable. The file kept plugging with the dust. I used a brush to clean it but there was do much material to remove.
(http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/9476/img8973lr.jpg) (http://img33.imageshack.us/i/img8973lr.jpg/)
The way I finally got it done was to use a coping saw to cut a series of cuts along the radius. I then turned the blade 90 degrees and cut down, along the plane of the site window to free the pieces. Then, I used the file (frequently cleaning with a wire brush) to round it over and finished it off with the square piece of oak, wrapped in sandpaper. Here are some pictures after the fact.
(http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/1774/img8974lr.jpg) (http://img38.imageshack.us/i/img8974lr.jpg/)
(http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/3490/img8975lr.jpg) (http://img19.imageshack.us/i/img8975lr.jpg/)
Today was really a day for Keith to continue working on his bow. We busted butt and was able to get his into the oven. Here he is sanding some small imperfections on his riser.
(http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/8786/img8977lr.jpg) (http://img33.imageshack.us/i/img8977lr.jpg/)
Hopefully I will be posting the finished pics soon.
John
Awsome Build Along!! That will be One Beautiful Bow My Friend!! :thumbsup: :pray:
QuoteOriginally posted by Shakes.602:
Awsome Build Along!! That will be One Beautiful Bow My Friend!! :thumbsup: :pray:
Glad you like the bow. I just feel bad that it is taking so long.
Yeah, I really like my bandsaw. It was almost like Christmas when I brought it home. It's my favorite tool to use but, probably not the most important. If I had to pick one tool, I think I would go with the tabletop belt/disc sander. That is so handy. If you keep a good supply of belts, you can do almost anything. It really would be a close fight with the bandsaw though. I have built bows without the bandsaw but, never without the sander.
Looks great,,,can't wait to see her all done!!!!
Outstanding buildalong! Great looking bow. :thumbsup:
does rubbing chalk on files work as well for woodworking as it does for metal working? Keeps the gullets from getting clogged in the files with metal bits. I would assume it would work on wood?!?!
QuoteOriginally posted by AkDan:
does rubbing chalk on files work as well for woodworking as it does for metal working? Keeps the gullets from getting clogged in the files with metal bits. I would assume it would work on wood?!?!
Great tip! I'll try when we're doing my buddy's bow. I was just about ready to turn the file on myself...lol
Thanks.
John
Well, it's finally finished. Here are some pictures. The pictures are not that great. I'll try to get some better ones tomorrow.
(http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/4319/img0591lr.jpg) (http://img26.imageshack.us/i/img0591lr.jpg/)
The tips came out nice.
(http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/6079/img0607b.jpg) (http://img26.imageshack.us/i/img0607b.jpg/)
(http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/3210/img0588lr.jpg) (http://img26.imageshack.us/i/img0588lr.jpg/)
I love the differing colors of the Dymondwood on the contours.
(http://img360.imageshack.us/img360/3710/img0593lrl.jpg) (http://img360.imageshack.us/i/img0593lrl.jpg/)
Very nice John, I'm not crazy about Dymondwood, but that bow is SWEET!!
Here's the last pictures. It has a couple of coats of Minn Wax Polyurethane sprayed on right now. I might put a couple of more coats on it. Now, all I have left to do is twist a flemish string for it and put some carpet on the arrow shelf. I might do that tomorrow night.
(http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/7497/img0633lr.jpg) (http://img42.imageshack.us/i/img0633lr.jpg/)
(http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/1503/img0635lr.jpg) (http://img240.imageshack.us/i/img0635lr.jpg/)
(http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/7599/img0630lr.jpg) (http://img240.imageshack.us/i/img0630lr.jpg/)
(http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/3827/img0631lr.jpg) (http://img42.imageshack.us/i/img0631lr.jpg/)
(http://img240.imageshack.us/img240/6703/img0632lr.jpg) (http://img240.imageshack.us/i/img0632lr.jpg/)
(http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/1047/img0637lr.jpg) (http://img94.imageshack.us/i/img0637lr.jpg/)
Lessons learned:
-Recurves are more involved than longbows.
-Make sure you have someody around when you glue it up.
-Dymondwood is really tough to work!!!
-Posting the build on the internet is just as involved, of not moreso than building the bow.
Thanks for following the build.
John
Thanks Dano. I don't think I'll use it again. I do like the looks of it though. It's just not worth the effort or expense.
John
Thank you so much for sharing your bow building experiences and doing the photographer job.
Its a great build along and a nice bow.
John, what an awesome build-along! I think you did a great job of not only building the bow, but showing us how you did it.
I have a piece of Diamond-wood for a riser that I've been saving for a bow for my son. Looks like I'll have more work in front of me than I thought.
Thanks again!
QuoteOriginally posted by SoNevada Archer:
John, what an awesome build-along! I think you did a great job of not only building the bow, but showing us how you did it.
I have a piece of Diamond-wood for a riser that I've been saving for a bow for my son. Looks like I'll have more work in front of me than I thought.
Thanks again!
Don't let me discourage you from using it. It is a very nice wood. It's just dificult to work with the tools. I'm kinda' impatient so, having to stop to clean the file bugged me. The best tool to use with it was the clesco sanders I had mounted in my drill press. They did a great job, as did my bench mount belt/disc sander. I truly believe you would be hard pressed to find a more durable wood to use. The drawback is it's good qualities are what makes it difficult to work with.
BTW, I used a block of it to build a longbow riser and had no complaints whatsoever. There is just more shaping work that goes into a recurve handle.
John
QuoteOriginally posted by tj69:
Thank you so much for sharing your bow building experiences and doing the photographer job.
Its a great build along and a nice bow.
Thanks for the kind comments TJ. I do photography as a hobby and part-time job. I was going to photograph the set up but, I was kinda getting into it. I had umbrella flashes set up and my camera. I would have to take all the stuff out because of the dust. I would then clean everything off, set the shot up, bring the camera in and take the shot...then repeat...I really enjoyed doing the build along.
I have the materials to make a bow very similar to yours. Charcoal dymondwood and back glass. When you started your build a long I decided to wait and see how yours turned out. That is one pretty bow. But you're not making me excited about working with the dymondwood.
QuoteOriginally posted by pditto613:
I have the materials to make a bow very similar to yours. Charcoal dymondwood and back glass. When you started your build a long I decided to wait and see how yours turned out. That is one pretty bow. But you're not making me excited about working with the dymondwood.
Go for it! It's worth it. I probably complained just a little too much. I should say that if I use it again, I will work it differently. The main problem was when I was trying to square the inside corner of the arrow shelf and put the overall radius on the surface of the shelf. If I would have used the coping saw in the beginning, I wouldn't have been quite so aggravated. Also, I probably would sand as many of the riser contours as I could, rather than cut them in. The burr I used had already been used before so, it was starting it's downhill slide and the bandsaw blade was already on it's last leg.
John
Again, thank you for all the work and effort. I've learned even more from this.
You are missing, though, the necessary Full Draw Picture! We'll be waiting patiently.......