Here is my 2nd bow, an osage D bow that I have been working on. It is 65" long and 50# @ 28". This bow started out as a split off of the bottom of a stave. I was amazed at how little of a piece of osage could make a bow. I am thinking about putting on some blacksnake skins so I can use it for deer season this fall. I messed up and made a glossy finish on it. This will be my first "traditional" deer season and I can't wait to kill a deer with a bow that I made.
***Can I use TBIII to glue the skins on, or would hide glue be better. Also, I have no idea where to get hide glue from.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/DSCN0692.jpg)
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I forgot to say thanks for the help that I have got from the members here. I was really hung up on the handle. I have never worked with leather before. I would get the bow out, look at it, look at the leather and then put it back. A real big thanks to Jawge for the section on his site for making handles.
Thats not a bad looking tiller. I am fixin to make me a D-bow soon. Dano's posts on the D-bow raised my interest.
I would use TBIII for skins myself.
Great job, tiller looks excellent. Yep TB III works great for skins. Good luck this season.
Very nice bow. If you put a glossy finish on it you could always just buff it with steel wool or add a couple coats of a satin finish to it. That would dull it down. But again, very nice looking bow.
Not to take away from your post, but how exactly do you get a belly split without tearing up the wood? Does it really split along a ring that easily? Just wondering.
Aaron
Can someone give me a good layout for a D-Bow like this? I was thinking rounded belly, 1.25" wide to 1.5" wide from midlimb to miblimb and tapering.
Or do you want to narrow the handle area some and make a tad thicker? Semibend?
Mark, the few I've made were 1 1/4" to mid limb, oval belly's. You can kinda cheat a bit and move the string off center just a bit to help arrow clearance.
Excellent job! Great fit and finish on that bow.
Yep, that's a winner!
Thanks Dano. I guess 1.5" would cause the bow to be too thin near the handle.
QuoteOriginally posted by Dano:
Great job, tiller looks excellent. Yep TB III works great for skins. Good luck this season.
Do you still soak them in water first?
QuoteOriginally posted by ALW:
Very nice bow. If you put a glossy finish on it you could always just buff it with steel wool or add a couple coats of a satin finish to it. That would dull it down. But again, very nice looking bow.
Not to take away from your post, but how exactly do you get a belly split without tearing up the wood? Does it really split along a ring that easily? Just wondering.
Aaron
I just used a hatchet and a hammer to split it. This was the belly section that came off of a larger stave. It didn't follow a single ring, it crossed about 3 or 4.
Yep soak em for about 20 minutes, then lay them between a towel to sop up the excess water.
QuoteOriginally posted by Dano:
Yep soak em for about 20 minutes, then lay them between a towel to sop up the excess water.
Thanks for the info. I have a partial skin that I might try on a scrap piece first. Should I sand all of the spar urethane off first?
No need to sand it all off, just rough it up with 100 grit paper.
great job on the bow, looks good i am jealous of all you guys who has that kind of wood so close to them
You are welcome. That's an awesome bow, scrub. Tiller is great! Jawge
I just put some snake skins on it. Any suggestions for a finish to put over them.
Use tru oil finish. You can get a container for 6$ form 3 rivers.