I figgured it may be fun to do a series of pics of building my version of the "one knife to do anything if civilization implodes".........not that I am very concerned about that happening, but I digress.
This will not be the only way to make a blade, I may do things strangely and you can count on me taking a while to complete this, but those with more experience than me can correct my missteps and the begginers out there may just glean a tip or two along the way.
So to begin, I should lay out my thoughts on what is a requirement for such a blade. Like I stated above, these are my ideas and I reserve the right to be wrong, or to change my mind whenever I feel like it :D
First, I want a clip point blade, with the point just above the centerling of the blade. typically a blade with a centered point(think dagger) is very pointable. Or in other words, if I need to stab something quickly(maybe need to finish a deer or protect myself from an attacking feral dog etc) it is quick to point and the point goes where you look when you thrust it. I chose to have the tip just above center, which gives the blade a bit more belly. This will contribute to sliceing and slashing ability at the cost of some accuracy of thrust(theoretically).
The other reason for a clip point is for their ability to pierce with very little effort.
Second, it needs to be long enough to maximize leverage for chopping tasks. In this case I am aiming for 12.5 inches from guard to tip. Big enough for power, but still not too unwieldy.
Third. Balance must be slightly ahead of the guard.......within 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch or so. This will give me enough forward mass to chop well but still handle reasonably quick.
Fourth. It needs to be sturdy and yet thin at the edge so it cuts with very litle effort. I prefer 5160 steel for bigger blades. I have found it to hold up to more abuse, in thinner cross sections, than any other steel I have tried. This comes with a cost though, I have also found it will need sharpened more frequently than some other steels. I have tried O-1, 1095, 1084, L-6 and while these steels will stay sharp a bit longer, if they are thin at the edge they do not hold up as well for chopping so I need to leave them thicker, which translates into more effort required to cut. For a skinner or sliceing knife, I will use a steel with better edge retaining qualities, but for blades that need to chop, I prefer 5160 above all others.
So with that long winded intro and without further ado, let's begin. :knothead: (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1080200_zps7e771f48.jpg)
Starting with a bar of 5160(of course) I begin with forging the tip.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1080201_zpsbf60f6fe.jpg)
You will notice I am getting a slight fishmouth forming. I can reduce this by forgeing hot and using a heavy hammer, but I also find that I can thump the bottom "jaw" of the fishmouth back in by taking a heat and using the mass of the steel bar to tamp the anvil with it. Here's the next progress shot.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1080202_zpsec42c24e.jpg)
As you can see, I have got the tip forged down for several inches back, and the fishmouth is pretty much gone.
Having forged the basic taper for the clip, I now measure back and set down the plunges where the bevels will start.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1080203_zps3467b8d7.jpg)
Then I place the ricasso to be, on the anvil with the edge over the far side and hit the spine(at arrow) to set it down. If I don't do this, there will be a kink in spine above where the bevels start instead of a smooth straight line.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1080204_zps13151e33.jpg)
After a few more heats and a lot more hammering here's where I'm at. I try to forge the same number of hammer blows on each side of the blade to keep things centered. Usually there is some tweaking to do to get things to line up anyway, but this seems to help keep the crookedness to a minimum.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1080206_zps5ae75c91.jpg)
next I'll hot cut the blade off the bar, leaving enough steel to forge out the through tang. I just use a cheap axe and an able bodied assistant to hold the bar, and hammer the axe bit almost through the steel, then bend it a couple time with the tongs and off it comes.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1080208_zpsfaeea46a.jpg)
Nice! :campfire:
Now to start forging the tang.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1080209_zpsf730a16d.jpg)
A bit more progress. :knothead:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1080210_zps7304eaa4.jpg)
And now here we are with the blade and tang forged and hot stamped with my mark.........cooling off after a normalizing heat.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1080211_zps815ccc43.jpg)
After it has cooled, only hammer work up to this point.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1080213_zps0ff32e41.jpg)
And then off to the belt grinder for a bit of refining of the profile, also roughed in the false edge so I can see what it's going to look like.
Here's where she sits for the next couple days until I get time to grind the bevels.
Like all those cool old westerns you used to watch that were just getting to a good part..........to be continued :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1080214_zpsb8feaad1.jpg)
Darcy :)
Good one!!
Very nice! Thats going to be a big knife!
Very nice. I love that 5160 for this size knife.
That is awesome. I have got to get me some forging equipment. Stock removal works great for the small blades that I typically make, but I would love to try a big knife just for fun. From what I've heard, if I ever try it, I will probably start forging all of my blades, big or small. You guys don't know of any hammer ins in N. Louisiana do you?
Very nice start Darcy. I enjoy keeping up with WIP threads. I also like 5160 for big blades also. Keep it coming.
Chris
i like it , will the clip end up sharp or not?
QuoteOriginally posted by kansas stik man:
i like it , will the clip end up sharp or not?
I am still undecided. I have never used a knife with a sharpened clip. I could see it giving me trouble if I needed to slit with the tip........like for field dressing game. I usually take the false edge to sharp and then just remove the edge with a few passes of wet/dry sandpaper leaving it almost sharp, but not sharp enough to cut. If anyone experienced with sharpened clips could chime in here and explain more fully the pros and cons that'd be great.
Thanks for the replies fellas, hopefully more progress soon. It's a bit chilly(7*f or -13*c) out there today(my grinder is outside) so I will have to stop and warm the pinkies every so often while grinding bevels.
Darcy
I've never used a knife with a sharpened clip, but I would tend to agree with you that it would likely cause issues with field dressing. Also, I have used a rather large knife in a pinch before for some very fine detail work by holding it by the sides/back of the blade near the tip. A sharpened clip would make that impossible as well.
Got a little more work done today. Not real exciting, mostly done the rough grinding. Still some more to clean up and lots of prep work before heat treating. Will take more detail pics of those steps tomorrow if all goes well.
I like to get the bevels ground in a couple stages with a break in between to look it over really closely. Otherwise I tend to get the edge slightly offcenter, or make the plunges uneven. If that happenes it goes in the cull bucket, so it pays to take my time. :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1100220_zps80bb16c3.jpg)
Darcy
:clapper: looking good cant wait
Dang Darcy, if your getting this same weather we are and grinding outside your one tough cookie... Looking pretty durn nice by the way.
Doug, it was not too bad yesterday, but I would have chickened out today for sure. It was -20 all day........brrrr! Got the shop fire going instead and worked on the false edge. Draw filing.........pics were tough to take, here're a couple.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1110225_zpsa902aed1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1110228_zps3e668f25.jpg)
Then I stamped the spine with the year. I have been marking the year on my forged stuff since around 2001........a few years after I began bladesmithing. Around a year ago I got the wild idea to use roman numerals............just because I am a bit quirky.
I make the spine fairly rounded rather than flat, so I have to roll the punches to get a good stamp that wraps over the spine. Then I draw filed and sanded the spine to 220grit, just to make it easier to clean up after heat treat.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1110227_zpse653d8ae.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1110231_zps4fb864d2.jpg)
Please withhold all negative comments about my messy shop :D
I then decided to chose a piece of anter for the handle. Picked this one........I had nothing that would fit perfectly so I will have to do a bit of external shaping on this piece. I am fairly confident it'll work out nicely. It is elk antler, and a very heavy solid piece with good color........this northern elk antler tends to run a bit heavier wall than the southern variety. This piece has a good solid 3/8 inch thick wall around the pith.
Notice the coffee cup........hinting at a late Chistmas present that I should get sometime around mid march. :jumper:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1110239_zps8110356f.jpg)
Thanks for the replies fellas,
Darcy :)
Nice work! I would love to forge a knife... My great grand father was a black smith, maybe I should give it a try, do a work shop or something....
Anyway back to your knife, will the knife have a guard?
That is getting better every day. Just one concern. How is the antler handle going to hold up to radiation, residual air contamination from chemical warfare, getting soaked in zombie blood :scared: , etc.? Just a thought. :D
QuoteOriginally posted by David Yukon:
Nice work! I would love to forge a knife... My great grand father was a black smith, maybe I should give it a try, do a work shop or something....
Anyway back to your knife, will the knife have a guard?
Thanks for the reply, yes it will have a guard.
Matt, I am pretty sure the antler will survive longer than I do in those cases..........just how corrosive is zombie blood anyway? :D
Here's what got done today.
Measured up the front end of the elk antler so I could make the ricasso fit.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1120240_zps9d65be9d.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1120241_zps5388cc1f.jpg)
The tape is my file guide, which will let me get close to squared up while the steel is easier to work with. Will get trued up with the guard after heat treat, but it is much easier to file before.
As you can see I need to take a bit off the bottom side to match the antler.
Filing up to the tape........I use chain saw files to round the transition and avoid any sharp angles. No stress risers here.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1120242_zps383e94fd.jpg)
And then the bottom side gets the same treatment. I also contour the ricasso much like the spine........I don't like flat surfaces and sharp corners here. Double radius ricasso.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1120243_zps682b5db7.jpg)
The edge is still thick, but it was too cold today to do any grinding. Hopefully it will be more pleasant out tomorrow.
Threaded the tang for the pommel nut. 1/4 28 thread.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1120245_zps1d2d6be9.jpg)
Ran into the first real glitch of this project. Snapped a tooth off inside the die causing probably the ugliest threads ever :banghead:
It still has plenty of good threads for strength, so it will work fine. But it sure looks awefull. Thank goodness this will not be a takedown.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1120246_zpsf892f7de.jpg)
That's it for today's installment. Getting pretty close to heat treat time, just a bit more refinement of the flat grind and a couple other preps.
Darcy :)
Darcy, that is turning into a true work of art! I am digging the design, and like how you stamp on the radius of the spine. How do you get the stamp to roll without making "stutter steps" in the marking?
looks great so far!!
QuoteOriginally posted by So-Mo Archer:
Darcy, that is turning into a true work of art! I am digging the design, and like how you stamp on the radius of the spine. How do you get the stamp to roll without making "stutter steps" in the marking?
Thanks Matt,
I stamp in the center lightly, and then deeper if it lines up exactly the way I want it. Then several smacks from all the angles necessary to get a smooth impression. Each letter gets hit probably 15 to 20 times with varying degrees of intensity until it looks right. Hope that makes sense.
Darcy :)
very clean , i know lin will love this one hes a big fan of the super sized pig stickers
Thanks Lamey......still a long way to go before this one's done.
Thanks Kansas stik man.
Darcy :)
Got this one ready for heat treat now. Tried to get a pic of the edge with moderate success. Have to hold your noggin crooked to see it properly though :wavey: . It's tough holding the knife in one hand and the camera in the other, and getting everything to line up right.
Finished the flat grind down to about .030" and sanded the edge lenghtwise to minimize chances for cracking during the quench. Deep grinding marks on the thin edge can cause stress cracks during hardening, so I get the edge smooth as a precaution.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1130255_zpsb476e69c.jpg)
Tea time :coffee: :D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1130256_zpsdef39631.jpg)
Hopefully will get this heat treated in the next couple of days.
Darcy
Darcey, I'm liking the way this knife is turning out!
OK, which GN did you order? Very nice bows!
Steve
----------
Potomac Forge
W.F. Moran Jr. Museum & Foundation
QuoteOriginally posted by Steve Nuckels:
Darcey, I'm liking the way this knife is turning out!
OK, which GN did you order? Very nice bows!
Steve
----------
Potomac Forge
W.F. Moran Jr. Museum & Foundation
Thanks Steve,
I ordered a Jack knife Lil' Creep 60#@27" straight grip..........can't wait :jumper:
Darcy :)
Ok, now your just going to have to show us the GN!! The knife is coming along nicely.
Chris
Chris, I'll be sure to post pics when my bow gets here.
I got this one hardened and have tempered it one time. It warped a bit so when I do the next temper cycle, I'll take some pics of the straightening process.
I did not get any good pics of the quench, it was too dark out and there was no cool flare up, but I got a couple other pics that look OK.
I normalized 3 times, starting at 1575*f, then 1550, and finaly 1525, and then an eight minute soak at 1525 and qunched in preheated(130*F)canola oil. One thing I was going to do was trace the profile of the blade pre and post heat treat, but I forgot until it was too late. I have found most blades that I quench in oil will warp downward toward the edge during the quench........like a kukri, but obviously less drastic, so I take that into account when forging. I make sure to leave the tip slightly higher than I want in the finished blade. This one curved downward noticably as well, but since I forgot to trace it first, I can't show how much. I will try to take a pic at the same angle as one of the pre heat treat pics and post them together to show the difference.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1140258_zpsf80f08fd.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1140257_zpscef731ce.jpg)
I will be pretty busy this week, so not sure how much progress I will make for a bit. One thing for sure, the work done so far is the easy quick part. Finish work is the challenging and time consuming stuff.
Stay tuned. :campfire:
Darcy
looking real nice... i banged out a 5160 Bowie today myself, forgot how nicely it works.
Quick update. Here's a pic of the spine showing the sideways warping I got during the quench. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1160275_zps5be35c9e.jpg)
To get this out I clamp it to a block of steel during the second tempering cycle. I do not try this for the fist temper as the steel is too brittle and I don't want to risk breaking the blade.
Here it is clamped to the steel block. You can see the coin I use so I can bend it slightly beyond straight. It usually relaxes a bit when you remove the clamp.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1160276_zps6e4a9468.jpg)
And here it is in the oven for the second temper cycle. 350*f.......for 2 hours.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1160279_zpsfa027e97.jpg)
Darcy
Here'se the results of the clamping. It took two temper cycles to get all the bend out, and I had to use a thicker shim, but it came out nice and straight.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1170286_zpsf16db384.jpg)
Darcy
Darcy, very clever and low stress way to get the warp out.
Thanks Lamey, but it's an idea I stole from a friend, who stole it from someone else. It works great though so I am not feeling at all remorsefull for my thievery. :D
Darcy
Nice job getting it back straight. I use the same method to get the post quench warp out, learned it from Lin. My steal block has a graduating radius that allows me to do this without a shim. Good job Darcy.
Chris
Thanks Chris. That's a great idea having a curved block to clamp to.
Darcy :)
Darcy, I have heard of the technique, glad to have additional confirmation of it's success!
Nice work!
Steve
--------
Potomac Forge
W.F. Moran Jr. Museum & Foundation
I'm enjoying this WIP. I see good solid knife making techniques. I love it.
A side note on the straightening technique. This is just my thoughts about using the curved plate. Not sure but it sounds good. By curving the plate to compensate for the warp, you are able to get full contact with the heavy, heat holding plate. This tends to create or at least maintain expansion while the cooling of the open side contracts. I believe it works either way, but I cant help but think the full contact makes maximum use of the heat that the heavy plate is able to hold.
Thanks guys. Been pretty busy the last few days so progress is slow. Hope to be able to post more soon. Lots of fun stuff coming up.
Darcy :)
So, we may need to postpone the end of the world for a bit :rolleyes: . Here's the sad story.......with pics. When I rough ground this blade I noticed some black flecs in the steel.......looked like slag inclusions, but I didn't think it was gonna be a problem. This is the fist time I worked with 5160 from this supplier, so I don't know if the batch of steel was contaminated or ???? I should have done a test blade first but I have never had trouble with 5160 before.
Anyway, I convex ground the blade. There was still lots of scratches and such that needed removed, but the edge was ready to put to the test. So, like I do with all my blades, I decided to give it a good workout. First I cut a 1 inch free hanging rope. This tells me the edge is thin enough to cut with minimal effort.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1200298_zpsbd38dac1.jpg)
So far so good. It cut the rope like it was not even there, so onto the next test. Edge looks perfect at this point.
Next up, chopping wood, in this case a dry piece of pine complete with bark and a couple big hard knots.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1200301_zpsa5514a0a.jpg)
After chopping part way through, I noticed a small chip out of the edge. But this was no ordinary chip, it followed a little black inclusion. It was very small so I figgured I'd finish cutting through the log. After cutting all the way through the blade was still very sharp but I noticed this.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1200302_zps541d5d9f.jpg)
At this point I feel like barfing. Notice the small bit of steel opened up just above the ripple in the edge. Almost like a blister or a delamination, but this steel isn't laminated so what's it doing there?
Here are a couple more pics of the inclusions.......when grinding the blade, these would grind out and then a new one would appear somewhere else when I ground a little deeper.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1200303_zps73a6aa29.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1200305_zps86a48351.jpg)
So I decided to break the blade and see what the inside looked like, as I was thouroughly disgusted at this point. Grain was not the finest but not too bad.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1200307_zps6ed90731.jpg)
So, I am back to the drawing board. I will try another blade from this same bar and see if the little black lines show up again. Also will add another normalizing cycle at a slightly lower temp to get the grain size down a bit more next time. I may forge out another blade at the same time with my last piece of 5160 from my previous batch just to confirm that I didn't make any errors along the way to cause this mess.
:banghead:
Oh well, could be worse, it could have been in the hands of someone else. And that's why I test every blade before I finish it.......nobody deserves to end up with a dud.
Onward.
Darcy
That's a real shame Darcy but it happens occasionally. Good job on the QA and catching it in time. Twice I've had "cracks" show in 5160 for no reason I could explain... Still think it's a great knife steel, just maybe some batches aren't up to the standard of others. :banghead:
Dang, that sucks! I have a number of 5160 knives and hawks, and it is a tough, reliable steel. Sorry your batch seems to have a problem.
Allan
Darcy,
That's too bad about the steel. I have to commend you on your process though. Your whole sequence is right on track with what I would think you should do for a superior knife blade, right down to testing before blade finishing. 5160 is great steel, thus from what I see, you do have a bad bar. It happens, from time to time, but not very often. I had it happen. It hurts to have that much time invested and something ike this happen.
One batch of 5160 I used had little black lines in it, not often, but just enough that every blade was showing at least one. In my case, it was not a crack but I could not use the steel for a finished blade.
One bar of 1084 simply separated during forging. Three blades in a row! That bar was "given" to me by a well meaning apprentice to use in a demo. I have since concluded (on my own)that the bar had been wrongly used to stir someone's oil to heat it. Effectively being fully hardened and left to sit, it developed cracks from stress, just waiting on me to try to forge a good blade from it.
I think your bar was somewhere in between the two above scenarios.
Your testing is the one thing that prevented a bad situation. That's good to see in our community. By the same token, testing will insure a well performing product.
I heard one well known stock removal maker say forging messes up all of the work the steel mill has done for us and we should just grind the blade from a bar. Well,... what if you get a bar that has the same problems you have had? If it's in the bar when you get it, you cant make a good blade whether you forge or not.
A smith who uses inconsistant, uncontrolled, and risky methods will likely have more problems in different forms. And he will not likely be able to pinpoint the cause. Your methods are consistant and otherwise are successful, giving cause for the belief it's the steel mill's fault or, at least, someone up the chain.
The reality is what you have shown us. Sometimes we have to pay for the failures of others. You're doing a great job.
Thanks for the words of encouragement guys.
Darcy :)
5160 was known for this 15+ years ago, it seemed to be much more common then. Im guessing that its some sort of mill flaw, as it was really prevleant no matter who was forging the steel. This is one of the reasons early on i started using 1095, and W2. I like 5160, and still use it, but when I started the problem you had was more prevelant then now. I thought all the current 5160 out there was cleaner, but maybe theres still some of the older stuff in the system?
Like Lin Ive had some current 1084 that would "split" when forged, had one pice that literally split in 1/2 through the middle... I dont and wont use any more of that steel from that supplier.
Let us know what you find out.
I feel your pain Darcy. I had it happen on a bar of 5160 that I had.
I am also familiar with the pain of redoing work you have already done, I am in that spot right now. I have very little time to work on knives and was seeing the current project getting close to complete when a mistake on my part has set me back considerably.
Lin has told me before and again with this set back there are some knives that fight you every step of the way. This has been a fight on mine. So tomorrow I will knock the guard off and go back a few steps to get the results I expect, just won't accept less.
Glad to see that your testing to the leingth you are. Keep us posted on the findings of the steel you are dealing with.
Chris
Darcy, sorry the steel failed! You are serious about your finished product who could ask for more?
Maybe your "Lil Creep" will show up soon and brighten your day!
Regards,
Steve
---------
Potomac Forge
W.F. Moran Jr. Museum & Foundation
Back in the saddle again guys. I am using my last piece of 5160 from my old batch, so it should work out fine. Will try to chase down the new batch's issues later. In the meanwhile.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P1280343_zpsbbe4a8fd.jpg)
Forged this one out tonight........decided to use my texturing hammer on the flats a bit and this one ended up an inch longer.........13 was an unlucky number anyway ;) :D Also a bit wider towards the tip than the last try.
Haven't touched a grinder with it yet.........just hammer work at this point.
Darcy
Good luck on this one!!
I have been too busy to do much with this blade, but I have heat treated it and am closing in on the finish grind. I remembered, this time, to trace the blade before and after heat treat. You can see how much the blade curved downward.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P2040368_zpsd103ba6b.jpg)
More to come, eventually :rolleyes: :bigsmyl:
Darcy
OK, Some more progress, gonna try and keep the momentum up and get this done.
ground and ready to test.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3180083_zpsbbb39a65.jpg)
After cutting through some pine knots, no damage to the edge, I stepped it up to this chunk of moose antler, the edge showed some slight rippling, telling me it was a bit too thin, so off to the grinder and take the edge back to leave it with some more beef. Whacked away at the antler again and no more problem. I do not make many blades this long, and the extra leverage requires a thicker edge than I have gotten used to doing.........live and learn.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3180082_zps5b0c3c61.jpg)
Now to draw back the spine to a spring temper...........don't want any risk of breakage from hard use. I put about 1/4 inch of water in a pan to keep the edge cool and play the torch flame on the back of the blade until it turns blue. I do this twice, once from each side to keep thing as even as possible.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3250109_zps9facc3e6.jpg)
Spine drawn back ready to move on.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3250112_zps803b65b8.jpg)
To be continued.
Darcy
Picked out an ok elk tine.........not a great one but I am not going for looks here, just has to be tough, fit the hand and not be too popcorny rough. Don't want to create hot spots in the hand while chopping.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3260115_zps48a931e0.jpg)
Lining up with the tang to see where I need to drill the preliminary holes.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3260116_zpsdf521843.jpg)
Partly fit up. This shows the home made broach tool for opening up the drilled hole. I also use a 1/4 inch wood chisel and a couple narrow files to get the fit as close as reasonably possible.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3260117_zps2b6f56a7.jpg)
Here the handle is on as far as it needs to go for now........very tight fit on the tang. shaped the handle to fit the hand a little nicer and line up with the ricasso. Note the taped edge so I don't cut off any body parts I may need later.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3260120_zpsba4b009d.jpg)
That's it for today. More tomorrow........unless my new Great Northern Lil Creep comes in, in which case all bets are off. :D
Darcy
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Looking great. Hope you get it done before the end gets here. I'd hate to miss the finished product. Have you ever tried getting the finished polish done before drawing the spine back then leaving the blue temper line? I think that might look pretty cool. Kinda like a blue hamon. I might try that on a hunter I'm working on just for kicks and giggles. May be tricky on a smaller blade though.
QuoteOriginally posted by tomsm44:
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Looking great. Hope you get it done before the end gets here. I'd hate to miss the finished product. Have you ever tried getting the finished polish done before drawing the spine back then leaving the blue temper line? I think that might look pretty cool. Kinda like a blue hamon. I might try that on a hunter I'm working on just for kicks and giggles. May be tricky on a smaller blade though.
Thanks Matt, I hope I get it done before THE END too, I'm not real speedy though :D
A few years back I did leave the spine temper colors on the finished blade. One thing to keep in mind is the heat from the torch always leaves a scum stain near the water line if you use this method. Instead, use a really hot torch so the spine heats quick enough without too much heat bleeding down to the edge, and just keep the pan of water handy to cool it in case things start to get away on ya. It does look cool, but the temper colors are not really durable, so with use I'd expect them to wear away after a while.
Anyway, a bit more work got done today(since my bow didn't get here :( ) so here're some pics.
Drilling and tapping a piece of 1/2 inch O-1 drill rod for the tang nut in the lathe to keep everything nice and straight.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3270121_zpsa8bb0689.jpg)
I should mention, when tapping holes in the lathe, I do not use power, just turn the chuck by hand and let the threads advance the tailstock(not locked down). I only do this in the lathe to keep it centered and straight.
After cutting the threads and stepping the shank down I cut it off and reverse the nut in the chuck to shape the window breaker/zombie head cracker.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3270122_zps429239a8.jpg)
Then I file a flat on 2 sides of the nut so I can tighten it up with a crescent wrench.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3270123_zpsc825e014.jpg)
Here's the nut fitted onto the tang with the antler in place........see how the butt is not true and square with the nut?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3270125_zpsad1ccb1b.jpg)
And here it is with the antler trued up........just enough gap left for the buttcap.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3270126_zps770f43fd.jpg)
After this I hardened and tempered the nut to make it stand up to abuse, but I failed to take any pics of that step.
Tomorrow I hope to get the guard and collar as well as the buttcap shaped and fit, if not textured and finished. If I can, this knife will be done and we will make a sheath for it by early next week, but thats getting ahead of myself. :knothead: :D
Darcy
Started the guard......drill holes and file it to fit. This is a piece of 3/16 thick mild steel.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3280140_zpse3665596.jpg)
Here, I have fit the guard up close to the shoulder on the tang. Also shows the super high tech tool(oak with a slot in it) I use to drift the guard into place......ball pein hammer not in photo.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3280141_zps11915cbd.jpg)
This pic shows the marks where I am getting too much contact and have to remove some metal from the guard to make it fit closer......basically I just keep trying and filing till it fits.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3280144_zps2f8dde9e.jpg)
After I get the fit good and close, I shaped the guard a bit and do some bending. Notice the brass shim to keep the jaws of the wrench from maring the guard up.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3280145_zps60ba868f.jpg)
Gives you an idea of where I am going.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3280147_zpsf0c55412.jpg)
Starting on the spacer.......this is 1/4 inch thick copper.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3280148_zpsb92aad5d.jpg)
And here is where I ended up for the day...... lots of shaping, refining, fine tuning and such to go........but I am tired now so it waits until tomorrow.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3280150_zpsa46fea89.jpg)
Darcy :campfire:
Very nice WIP. That's the kind of tutorial I like. Your work show a particular "philosophy" in the craft that I enjoy.
looks great , might even make a good EDC if ya have to fight bears for a living!
Enjoying this!
Much appreciated!
I have a big 5160 project comming up soon!
Steve
--------
Potomac Forge
W.F. Moran Jr. Museum & Foundation
Thanks guys.
Here's a recap of what I got acomplished today.
Shaped and fluted the copper spacer.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3290152_zpscc476cc7.jpg)
Did some contouring of the guard to make it more friendly on the hand, and made the buttcap......1/8 inch mild steel. Also got the fit between the blade, guard, spacer and handle, in that order, sorted out better.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3290154_zps0ac15238.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3290155_zps86b61053.jpg)
Attacking the guard and buttcap with a carbide cutter in the dremel tool. I make sure I get all the visible metal textured so no file or tool marks are left from the contouring and shaping. The only places that get left are where the shoulders of the blade sit on the front of the guard, and where the spacer sits on the back of the guard. Also the small area where the pommel nut seats against the buttcap.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3290158_zps37d0e3c4.jpg)
After they are textured, I give them a good shot of cold blue, and then sand with 600 grit wet dry paper, and scotchbrite. Leaves me with a nice(to my eye anyway) granite look. You can see in this pic the guard is textured and blued, but not rubbed back. The buttcap is done.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3290160_zpsd8591c99.jpg)
Closing in on it now. Hope to be cutting leather for the sheath by monday. Stay tuned.
Darcy :)
Yep, excellent tutorial Darcy, you've put about as much work into this as the knife. Thanks!
Thanks Doug.
It wouldn't be so much work to do these buildalongs but for the fact that it seems every time I try it, the knife fights me every step of the way. But then, some of them fight you every step of the way reguardless. :D
So today, I had to clean up a few deep file marks on the false edge and some hand sanding(minimal) on the blade. After that, I dug out that bottle of cold blue again.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3300163_zpsa79ae928.jpg)
And then into the bleach. I use a 2 inch ABS tank for this. The grip clamp is to set the blade depth in the bleach just to the start of the tang. For some reason, I usually have to take the blade out and clean it off with scotch brite and water before the bleach really starts to work. Then I just do as many cycles in the bleach as it takes to get the degree of etch I want.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3300165_zps357286c2.jpg)
Here's what the blade looks like after it comes out of the bleach.......looks scarey eh? :eek:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3300167_zps8352892d.jpg)
I scrub the worst of the crud off gently with scotchbrite, and then 1500 grit wet dry and mineral oil until it looks something like this.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3300168_zps2abc3a7b.jpg)
Never need worry about rust and staining again with a finish like this. It is a super rugged finish........ and let's face it, no amount of abuse or neglect can make it look any worse than it did when it first came out of the bleach. It's been trained to not expect coddling and feather pillows at this point........ready for anything the apocalypse can throw at it. :D
And we close with this one for today. Guard and spacer driven on and sealed with JB weld. Final assembly is near.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3300175_zpsab7c27e4.jpg)
Have a happy Easter guys. See you soon.
Darcy :campfire:
First time I've seen the methods explained for this type of blade finish. Seen a few before and always been curious because I like the antique look it gives. Just to be clear: cold blue, then bleach and scotch brite/1500 grit multiple times until desired finish is reached? I've got a blade ready for heat treat that this finish may look good on since its based on about a 1500 year old design. Don't want to do it wrong and ruin a blade. Love the last pic by the way.
QuoteOriginally posted by tomsm44:
First time I've seen the methods explained for this type of blade finish. Seen a few before and always been curious because I like the antique look it gives. Just to be clear: cold blue, then bleach and scotch brite/1500 grit multiple times until desired finish is reached? I've got a blade ready for heat treat that this finish may look good on since its based on about a 1500 year old design. Don't want to do it wrong and ruin a blade. Love the last pic by the way.
Thanks Matt,
That's the procedure I use. Pretty hard to ruin the blade unless you left it in the bleach way too long.
I look forward to seeing your knife, so please make sure you show us when you get-r-done. :)
I got the final assembly done tonight, but light was terrible for pics so all I got was this one of the tang all gooped up with epoxy. Pics of the finished knife tomorrow, and we'll start on the sheath too. :campfire:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P3310176_zps6aeef896.jpg)
Darcy
I judge by how you mixed your epoxy you must be filing wireless this year :p
Looking forward to seeing the finished blade!
Thanks Darcy. I've had several in the works since the end of January, but haven't finished any of them. A set of 9 matching full tang hunters for a friend to use as gifts next Christmas (first knives I've sold). I've been wanting to try a hidden tang, so I mixed a couple of those in to break up the monotony so I have 12 ready for heat treat once I drill all the pin holes this week. Doing 9 identical ones will drive you crazy by the way. I'll definitely get some pics up when I'm done.
QuoteOriginally posted by bculberson:
I judge by how you mixed your epoxy you must be filing wireless this year :p
Looking forward to seeing the finished blade!
:D
Thanks Bruce........last years papers ;)
Got some pics today.
Here're the final specs.
19.5 inch overall length.
Blade tip to guard......13 7/8"
Mass- 1pound 9.5oz
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010183_zps769fa792.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010184_zps4f0f4afa.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010187_zps33ac38d2.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010191_zps0cbfa7a6.jpg)
Time to start the sheath.
Darcy
OK guys. I took a lot of pics of this process so this'll be fairly lenthy. Consider yourself forwarned.
I start with a tracing of the blade on cardboard........to this tracing I add the border for the welt. In this case I have a welt width of 7/16 inch. This is plenty strong without making the sheath excessively wide.
In this pic you can see the tracing with the welt border, two pairs each 10oz and 4 oz and 2 welts. I lucked out and had a naturally tapered section of this leather to cut the welt out and it matched the distal taper almost perfectly. I usually have to skive the welt to match the distal taper.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010198_zps47d032cc.jpg)
figuring out where to place and punching the hole for the stud button mounting screw. Obviously this is the front of the sheath.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010199_zps2ac082ce.jpg)
Laying out the border for the tooling as well as the line where the stitching will go with the adjustable border marking tool.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010200_zps713a36ab.jpg)
At this point I wet the leather down for tooling with warm water. I am using a damp cloth. The leather needs to stay damp for the tooling process so I will continue to wipe it with the cloth every time it seems to be drying out too much.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010201_zps0fa848e7.jpg)
I am just using a modeling tool to make the design here.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010202_zps93eac06d.jpg)
Here using the other end of the tool to add some different grooves.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010203_zps2e0ab81b.jpg)
Getting ready to mark for the stitching. Here you can see the stitch marking tool on the left and my home made one on the right. I wanted a bit more room between stitches so made this one up a few years back.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010205_zps54b3c84f.jpg)
Marking for the stitching.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010206_zps478688fc.jpg)
Using the modeling tool to clean up the border.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010207_zps2e357970.jpg)
Putting the belt loop on the back with a copper rivet.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010209_zpsd5c3a71f.jpg)
And mounting the stud button on the front. You can see how rough the flesh side of this leather is. For this reason, and also to cover the screw head and rivet back, and to add stiffness to the sheath, I am using an extra layer of leather on the front and back. Pics will make more sense than my rambling.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010210_zps0b710719.jpg)
After using the cardboard template to make the 4 layers, I then cut out the tracing of the blade............
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010211_zps058a72ab.jpg)
And use it to mark for the welt.
You can see the 2 layers of leather front and back. Also notice I have dyed the welt and inside top of the sheath before I get glue on it. The dye will not take where there is glue residue.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010213_zps190b8678.jpg)
]
Glue in the welt in place using contact cement.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010214_zps636d39f9.jpg)
And here it is all glued up and ready to drill for the stitching.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010215_zpsc17ebea3.jpg)
Drilling for the stitching with the drill press. Trick is to keep it flat so the row of holes on the bottom is straight.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010216_zps3f7db24a.jpg)
Grooving for the stitching. This protects the thread from abrasion by keeping it below the surface of the sheath.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010217_zpsb95cdd31.jpg)
At the top of the sheath for 4 or 5 holes I have grooved the leather deeper as this is where the stitching will end and it needs a bit more room there.
Moving on to the color. The sharpie works well to make a clean transition between the black border and the brown tooled area. I have trouble keeping the dye from getting away so this step buys me a bit of leeway.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010218_zpsab3ab792.jpg)
Coating the tooled area with antique finish. I slopped a bit over the line in a couple spots, but it will not matter as that's gonna be black later.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010219_zpsb8aaed9c.jpg)
Wiped the excess antique off the tooling, and dyed the edge(and the back and belt loop) black.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010220_zpsf61c4c36.jpg)
Beginning the stitching. I am using artificial sinew. The rule of thumb is 7 times the length of your stitching for this style stitch. I decided that I'd do this in two pieces since 7 times 28 inches is a bit long to handle. Fold the sinew in half and the first half goes through like this.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010221_zps181ccfe9.jpg)
And the other end follows it but down for up and up for down.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010222_zpse97cf30d.jpg)
Get to the end and I tie an overhand knot like so on the back side of the sheath.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010223_zpsb549f253.jpg)
And then the needles go back down the hole closest to them.......and continue stitching back towards the starting point again.......for a few stitches. It gets tough to get the needle through so I grip the needle in the pliers and push on the pliers to get it started. Then grab the tip of the needle and pull it through from the other side. A couple things of note. The needle points have been blunted and polished to make them less likely to cut into the thread, but it helps to aim the point of the needle to the side of the hole so you do not damage the thread that is already there.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010225_zps72135222.jpg)
After a few stitches I cut off the sinew short on the backside of the sheath and melt the ends with a lighter. Use the side of the flame so you can get close to the sheath without burning anything you don't want to.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010226_zpscd70e3ac.jpg)
Here's what you get......little melted ends that resist backing up into the holes.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010227_zpsfa5e4cbc.jpg)
Then I stitched the other half of the sheath same way. After that I clean up the horrible looking welt with the belt grinder, and bevel the edges.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4010229_zps4f9a199b.jpg)
I got the sheath done now, but still need to take final pics.........tomorrow, I'm beat! :knothead: :D
Darcy
Take a rest. You done good.
This is a very nice tutorial. One of the best I've seen. The photos are great too. You get high marks all around.
Very nice all around. Darcy, thanks for the time and effort you put into this.
Chris
Thanks guys. I got a couple final pics done this morning. The sheath angle is adjustable and made to work in a cross draw style. The blade is too long for this half breed, (hobbit/garden gnome)to draw from the right hip........cross draw works well for this.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4020231_zps3debfcae.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4020232_zpsbab5dc31.jpg)
One of my hound pups decided to lessen the ugliness of this pic for me. :) Thanks Dottie.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v486/45stomp/P4020234_zps1f5dea7a.jpg)
I hope you can all make some sense of what I wrote, I am not always able to make myself clear in a written format.........or in person for that matter. :D
Darcy
Excellent tutorial Darcy.
Nice blade and sheath!
:clapper:
Well worth the wait. When you do mine, send it my way with a shoulder rig though. I enjoyed every bit of this tutorial and hope to steal ;) a few of your techniques over the next couple months.
Great tutorial! I really like that knife and even though I don't believe in zombies I would love a knife just like that. You know "just in case" I'm wrong! Lol
Thanks guys.
Matt, I steal most of my techniques as well so steal away. Let me know if you have any questions about a procedure.........I may have already goofed it up a time or two and can save you the headache. :D
JMR, you can't be too carefull with zombies eh!
Darcy :)
Talent, plenty of talent. :notworthy:
Darcy,
Thank you sir for the time and effort you put into the how to, don't know if i'll ever build a knife but the effort has not gone unappreciated!
Great project Darcy! I love the sheath & Knife!
Did you get your GN yet?
Steve
----------
Potomac Forge
W.F. Moran Jr. Museum & Foundation
QuoteOriginally posted by Steve Nuckels:
Great project Darcy! I love the sheath & Knife!
Did you get your GN yet?
Steve
----------
Potomac Forge
W.F. Moran Jr. Museum & Foundation
Thanks Steve. No Lil Creep yet........should be any day though. I am almost going nuts! :jumper:
Darcy :)
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: Just excellent. Congrats.
Bet you'll be able to skin grizz with that one pilgrim!
:thumbsup:
A big thank you for all the time and effort that you out into this project. I learn more from this forum than anything
I can sure appreciate the amount of work/time you put into everything, including the sheath! Good work, be PROUD>.... very PROUD!
What a great looking blade! Thanks for sharing!
That's a beautiful knife! Well done and thanks for sharing! :)
Darcy,
When I saw today that this knife was in the first of the four St. Jude auctions this year, I thought it ought to be in the hands of my son Michael who has been my hunting companion around the world since he was a little boy. He is now a professional oil painter with a child of his own. His paintings often include knives, and yours appeared to be perfect for some future project, especially since this monster knife deserved a higher bid than what it had received up until near the end of the bidding. I waited to see if someone else wanted it as much as I knew Michael would, but the bids had stopped, so I decided to place mine and get the knife for my son to use in a painting.
I expect your knife will ultimately appear in several of Michael's paintings over time. A beautiful clay bean pot I got in the auction a couple of years ago is in a second painting that Michael just finished. I personally tend to carry and use smaller knives, with the largest knives I own being ones I have bought over the years in the St. Jude auction as collector pieces. Your giant Bowie knife will probably serve mostly as a collector piece and a prop for painting, but if I can get Michael back down to Oklahoma with his Shrew Classic Hunter for a hog hunt sometime, I hope for him to be wearing this knife while I carry my 52100 Bowie knife made by Doug Campbell that I got in last year's auction.
I'm excited to be getting the knife, as is Michael after I telephoned him tonight to tell him about it. You definitely put a lot of time, effort and expense into building it, and the kids at St. Jude will appreciate your donation, as do I and everyone else here on TradGang.
Allan
Thanks very much Allan for the kind words, and I hope the knife is well recieved. Like you said, the kids are the big winners here.
I look forward to seeing this knife in a painting........that's exciting for me. I have a brother who paints(coincidentally, he was a patient at a childrens hospital about 30 years ago), so artwork like that is close to my heart.
I can't wait till next years auction, and this one's not even over yet.........I have plans for the next knife donation..........something with more universal appeal.
Thanks again. Will be in touch. :)
Darcy :campfire:
Darcy,
I want you to know that the Bowie is extremely appealing, just not something I would carry around on a routine basis. I know it would be VERY useful for a variety of purposes in a wilderness camp setting where there was a need for clearing brush, light chopping, preparing foods, providing a means of finishing off an animal, etc. Then, there is the painting of beautiful and interesting objects that my son will be doing with your knife sometime in the not too distant future. Michael is already asking when he will get the knife. He just finished a second painting with the St.Jude bean pot I won a couple of years ago, and a tomahawk I put together for him using a hawk head forged by Craig Barr and a hickory handle. I don't think that painting is on his website yet, but you can see lots of his past work there. He is very good, even at only 30 years old. Here is a link to pictures of his work. It's only for viewing, not for the sale of his work, which goes through galleries and other channels. I just wanted you to have an idea of what he does so you might imagine what different kinds of paintings your knife might show up in. www.michaeldevore.net (http://www.michaeldevore.net)
Thanks again for your donation. I always enjoy seeing your work here on TradGang!
Allan