I forged and ground this one out about 4 years ago, finally finished it out. Ive always found a bigger knife in the woods to be a tool that I use ALOT!
This one is forged out of 3/8" thick 1095, and measures 15" overall, blade is 10" x 1-3/4" x 5/16". Has a very simple brushed finish, Curly Koa scales. Cuts good to, snicked through the tough bamboo I have like nothing.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8297/7852687322_1a57cc229c_z.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8424/7852690872_db7b8edaa9_z.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8425/7852694472_1dc0f8a278_z.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7122/7852692954_7f584f6d10_z.jpg)
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Very nice Matt, I like it!
Me likey!!!!! Gotta love koa
Is that tru oil finish?
That's a "Simple" beauty!
Looks very nice!
Steve
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Potomac Forge
hi Ray, yeah its only the first coat of Tru Oil, will have to put at least 3 other coats, will look better when done.
Matt,
Your knives are really nice!!
Very nice Matt. You do make some outstanding knives. Particularly your bigger knives. I have got to try some Koa. I got a block set aside, now your pushing me to give it a go.
Chris
Chris it works alot like Walnut/Curly Maple. Easy to work, but takes a while to get a good finish on etc.
Do you buff after a certain grit? I am planning to use it on a raised clip hunter.
Chris
hi Chris, i just take it to 400 grit, then wipe with alchohol. WHen you do this the grain will raise a bit, go back over with 400, I do this a few times.
Then wet sand with 400 and either boiled linseed oil, or Watco danish oil, this will help fill the pores and give a smooth finish.
I then start the process with True Oil, I use the Formby brand, high gloss.
After rubbing each coat in I lightly buff with 0000 steel wool. Usually after 3 or 4 coats you will have a nice finish. After you get it sealed and it wont soak up any more, put the very last coat on VERY light. After it dries hand buff with some minwax, renwax etc.
Its hard to get a good pic, but here is some Curly Maple using the above method.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7140/7831315156_2fe2178a92_z.jpg)
Thanks Matt. Not trying to get off topic but while we are discussing it, do you apply this process to stabilized Koa also?
Chris
hi Chris, im guessing the stabilized will require much less work. Ive not worked with as much stabilized wood as some, the few times I have it was a 400-600 grit finish, 0000 steel wool, then cloth/wax buff.