Having always stamped my knives I didn't feel the need for an etcher till I started fooling with these little folders. I know some of you have built your own and some have purchased them so I'd love your input.
Thanks
I have a gentleman cut out my mark in the negative on vinyl. I stick the vinyl resist to the blade, attach the negative positive lead of a battery charger (set for a 2 amp marine battery charge) to a piece of cotton ball dipped in salt water. I attach the positive lead to the tang. I did a little tutorial using a lantern battery before. I think it's a sticky up top now. It was poorly done and my knives aren't anywhere near yours, but it works. It produces a somewhat rugged etch, in that there's variance in depth compared to a commercial system or stamp. At any rate, here's a more recent example:
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Knives%20and%20Metalwork/John-Shade-2.jpg)
Go to that drawer where you have all those old cell phone chargers you wonder why you keep every time you open it - whola, now you know why.
Need to have a two lead charger and a couple little gator clips. Do a test on a piece of scrap - should become black pretty quick where your etchant meets the blade or you have the wrong lead doing the dirty work. Swap the etch lead for the one cliped to the blade and your good to go. If you are smart you will put a piece of tape or something on the hot lead or if you are like me you will think about it but never get it done so you go through the guess and switch each time.
Salt water, vinegar, feric, others?? all work as an etchent but I get good results with just salt water and it is less toxic when it is bubbling.
As mentioned above, having your makers mark cut out of vinyl by a sign maker is the best way but there are other tricks to skin the cat. Have them cut small and close together so you get more on a page. Use 3M blue to pull the vinyl off the backing and attach to the blade then carefully remove the 3M. Electrical tape around it will protect from over flow etching. Practice on a blade you are not as concerned about prior to one of your awesome folders - there is a small learning curve to get the depth you want.
You can also put the vinyl on the blade and etch the whole thing in feric to get a different type of mark on the blade.
By the way 4est - that little folder is awesome
I got one of the inexpensive etch-o-matics for Christmas. I had a guy named Earnie (I think) from Florida make some stencils for me. He said the etch-o-matic would not work but I have had very satisfying results with it. There are many tutorials to make your own. I have two different size stencils. You can do a deep etch or a surface etch or both. I do the deep etch and then blacken it. Just be sure to moisten the pad very well. Here are a few pics of the results.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/mikebaker/Picture061.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v78/mikebaker/100_1070.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8432/7524136408_b61a0cc7a7_c.jpg)
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8292/7524116664_64bd30febd_c.jpg)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7112/7524114772_d4da5ddfd1_c.jpg)
I got my stencils from Ernie too. I just etched this blade.
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8285/7524148234_c6c71d6c28_c.jpg)
Nice work, fellas!!!!!
Nice pictures, and nice dog foot, Lin
I had Ernie Grospitch make me a sheet of stencils some time back for when I built my first folder up at Jon Christensen's but used his etcher. Wish he hadn't moved four hours away...
Didn't know there were so many options, Chris Scully sent a link to the Chris Crawford build along also.
That phone charger deal is one I'm gonna try pretty quick Bobby. My lovely wife never throws anything away ;) so I spect there's one or two here somewhere.
Saw that Personalizer on Pop's sight Lin, real tempting...
Thanks Guys!
Doug, which ever way you go, you'll need supplies. I use a lot of the cleaner and some etchant/electrolyte. 4 to 1. I just ordered more cleaner and still have plenty of electrolyte.
I like the personalizer. Bout got the kinks worked out.
QuoteOriginally posted by Lin Rhea:
I like the personalizer. Bout got the kinks worked out.
What would be one of the "kinks'?
Trying to use a stencils after it gets "worn". I get about 4 or 5 good clean uses. I'm new to this so I might be mis diagnosing, but I change stencils often.
Using too much electrolyte on the pad. Smears the stamp and runs up against the guard where it's hard to reach. You should put just enough on the felt pad and if you get too much, blot it on paper towell.
Getting the power setting set for the depth and timing of the etch. Still working on this one. Start swith short sessions and fold the stencil back and clean from time to time. I dont time it, but I think my total accumulated time to etch a stamp is 1 1/2 - 2 minutes. That is broken up into two or three shorter sessions. I have always stamped so I compare it with that and thus a deep etch looks right to me.
Fastening the stencil to where you can raise it up to check/clean it and it lay flat exactly where it was. Scotch tape works good. Create a hinge.
The rule (in my estimation) for etching is to use moderate amounts of cleaner, not trying to etch on flooded amounts of cleaner. Use an approprate amount of electrolyte. Just enough to cover the area of the stamp. For instance, you trim your stencil to be somewhat larger than the area of the stamp to protect that area from any over run of etchant. To put more electrolyte than needed means that it will run over and under the stencil so when you apply the electricity to it, it will naturally burn where you dont intend. Not good. The next variable is the timing of the etch.
Expect to go over the blade again hand sanding your last grit after the name etch.
Doug, Chris Scully made one for me and it works great, i use salt water. i think he got everything from radio shack,you might email him and get the materials you need, i think he said it cost very little.
Dana
I appreciate your time, Lin.
Like Doug, I'll soon find reasons to do some etching.
You mention electrolyte up against the guard - can't you etch it before you attach the guard?
Yes, I do that when given a choice. Once in a while, I'm in a situaltion where I have to etch a completed knife. A collaboration, for instance. The knife is finished and needs my mark.
Good stuff! I really appreciate the input from everybody. As most of you know I really enjoy making much of my equipment but with our jobs in the summer and fall my shop time just screeches to a halt. What little I get I'd rather use working on a knife. My sweet little wife has given her blessing ;) to buying an etcher, now it's just deciding which one...
I like dealing with Pop's but saw the etcher from "Blue Lighting" on Ernie's site that looks like a bit more "machine" for about the same money. Has anyone heard anything about it?
Lin, I'm assuming the etchant/electrolyte is the same thing?? Do you use the cleaner before and after the etch?
Here is the result of the stencil Ernie made me using Jon's etcher which was real similar to Lin's.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v82/gotahunt/b0688a06.jpg)
Yes Doug, Before, after, and sometimes in between. The smoked up areas make it hard to see if it took. So I clean it off lightly and etch again if I think it needs it.
I'm calling the electrolyte and etchant the same. I will still stamp sometimes, but the option of etching the name is nice. I had Ernie make me some small stencils more fitting for smaller blades.
Gotcha.
QuoteOriginally posted by Lin Rhea:
Yes, I do that when given a choice. Once in a while, I'm in a situation where I have to etch a completed knife. A collaboration, for instance. The knife is finished and needs my mark.
I got some stencils from Ernie also. Good quality stencils and he can do some great artwork too.
Lin, that etch of yours is great. I thought at first it was a stamp its so deep.
Now that I have a stamp, I prefer to use it, but we older, somewhat senile guys occasionally forget to stamp before hardening. The etch saves a lot of extra effort then.
I'm not a knifemaker, but I read a book about it by Bob Loveless. In it, he describes how he does his mark. He didn't use a cut stencil. He used something that cured with a special light. I guess it's safe to assume that all of you know about that system.
(http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e322/rayhammond123/b8726a2f.jpg)
Etch-o-matic
Very easy to use and just like most everything the more you do it the better results u get
Got mine used off fleabay used came with lots of stencils and etching solutions for copper bronze stainless and general purpose as well as a neutralizer for $80
I gotta get a better camera!!!!!
Has anybody used the durafilm stencils that etchomatic sells? I think I can build the UV exposure unit a lot cheaper than the kit they sell and just buy the stencil material and stencil developer. Just curious, will these stencils work with saltwater, or will I have to use a stronger electrolyte like they sell? I haven't checked with a sign maker yet. I may be better off just getting a sheet of stencils made.
I tried the method outlined by Bob Loveless. Had to go to a different company for the chemicals. I don't know if my problem was a too-weak UV light, or having 2 left hands, or just being stupid, but I got only 25% success. Talked with a knifemaker in PA who used the method with total satisfaction and bought a different developer. Exchanged quite a few e-mails trying to get my process right. Wound up with a gallon or more of various photo chemicals and never did achieve even 50% success.
Went back to the electro-stencil etch and, other than when I tried to stretch a stencil past its limit as Lin said, I've had 100% success.
Got my latest stencils from Ernie Grospitch and they do last longer than the flimsies I bought years ago.
Ernie also passed on a tip: when marking damascus, etch the mark on the polished blade. Then paint the mark with finger nail polish. Let the nail polish cure really hard (UV will speed this up somewhat. Rub the nail polish off the blade surface with the same grit you used for the pre-etch polish, backed with a hard block so you don't get down into the mark. Then do your damascus etch. The marks stays sharp and protected. Take the nail polish off with acetone as a final step.
I made mine from a how to article listed on Chris Crawford's knife site. All the items are found at Radio Shack to build the power supply. Their is a how to assemble and a list of parts with Radio Shacks part #'s included at the site. Mine works very well and has the option of a clean metal etch or a dark etch. It is just a matter of flipping a switch and holding the etching pad on the stencil. I got my stencils from Ernies Knives in Florida. I used up several of the stencils before I got consistent results but now I love it. I try to etch mine after the blade is done and before it is assembled. It has worked good for me.