I know some of you makers send wood out to be stabilized. My questions are:
Will this make the wood strong like Dymondwood so I can use it in my bow handles? And,
Where is the best place to send said wood?
I have some nice spalted maple that I want to have done.
thanks all
Chuck
Chuck there is a guy in Fort Collins Colorado that uses stabilized wood for his bows:
Kelley Bows
3500 Terry Lake Road
Ft. Collins, CO 80524
phone: 970-221-1518
A lot of call makers stabilize their own wood at home. Of course it is smaller pieces, just like knife handles. Google for it, there is alot of info on how to do it online.
Chuck, I think most woods that are usually stabilized are burls and other woods that are prone to checking or normally have voids and soft or porous grain. I would not recommend using a Burl in a riser unless it is for an accent between a proven wood or phenolic. Maybe a riser with I-beam construction would work. That said, blacktail uses a lot of snakewood and it is a wood that is prone to checking. I would imagine it is stabilized somehow or his bows might not have such an excellent reputation.
Mike, Thats what I think, The wood needs to be strong enough anyhow. Dwood is resin impregnated,read epoxy. Stabilized is with acrylic.
Dan Thanks for that name,I will call him next year, ;)
CTT
Chuck,
If properly stabilized the wood will be very strong. The type of wood also adds to the strengh. Spalted maple is typically weak, but stablized it would work great in a bow riser.
I would only recommend one of these two companies in the US
http://www.knifeandgun.com
http://www.stabilizedwood.com/wssi.shtml
And these guys in Canada
http://woodstabilizer.com/
Need pic when you complete the bow!!
James
From my understanding of the process(s) used it will only increase the compression strength and impact resistance of the substrate (wood). I think there would be little gain in tensile strength. If it is to be used in a non bending / rigid riser it could be helpful.
Well, that is some good info.
james, I looked at WSSI after I googled the Kelley bows from Dan's post. I will look into the other.
I have some killer Spalted maple that I want to "help Out" But I think I better put it with some stronger material.
If not for a bow then I will get some knives hafted up,What do ya say Charles?
CTT
For knife handles , as long as it is not too "punky" read spongy rotten I would give it multiple applications of thin ca, 24 hrs apart on all sides then finsh with a "Massey" type thinned epoxy for a final coat. Of course this depends on the tang type and intended use. I would not use it on a hidden tang that might be used for heavy chopping or such. For a smaller bladed caper or skinner I would feel quite confidient in it. Just do not breath the ca fumes, darn nasty stuff, cyanide. I have hardened wormy spalted silver maple in this manner for handles and turnery and it has worked great.
That CA is nasty Charles. I think I have developed an alergy to it. Mess me up man.
Another 2 cents , Chuck . the stabilized wood , I feel is easier to finish as it has the acrylic in it and is less prone to shrinkage ( it does still shrink , though) I have always thought it would be good in a riser......killer spalted maple (dyed or undyed) would be a definite eye catcher. Good luck Chuck and Happy New Year
Thanks Chad same to you and the family. Tell your wife I have my hat nice and broke in,wear it everyday.
My spalted is just wood right now. I was up all night taking care of a sick little kiddo(daughters friend) and I came up with some good ideas for an eye catchy combo for strength and beauty. I will keep you all posted and will,as always,get me some knives handled up with the extras.
Thanks to all and HAPPY NEW YEAR.(be careful and GOOD)
CTT
Stabilization in and of itself is not going to do magic to strengthen any wood. If you do a little testing you may find that most of the time the wood is actually more prone to crack after stabilization then before, hard doesnt always mean strong especially in wood, double that for wood that will be under flex/stress during use.
Stabilization is good in keeping woods from shrinking/warping etc... but actually making it "stronger" in a flex/stress application... not from what I have experienced.
Wow. You guys have brought up some great points that I am experiencing both with CA glue and stabilized wood.
I am allergic to CA glue and unless I use it outside of my shop in breezy conditions with a good mask on, I will suffer for 2 days after. Nasty stuff...
I have also discovered that stabilized wood will still shrink or warp occasionaly, much to my shagrin :mad: , and will pull away from knife tangs even though prepared properly. I live in a semi-arid climate and have found that not only does the wood I bring in have to be shelved for 6 to 12 months to acclimatise before use, it also helps to precut the rough shape of the handle out and leave it sit for another length of time. This is causing me to really preplan my knife building quite a ways in advance. Really limits the spur of the moment building.