(http://i707.photobucket.com/albums/ww75/gables_photo/fowler.jpg)
Ed Fowler Blades
I want to forge a Laplander style blade for a great chunk of caribou antler I just got. I am weakest in forging but working on it.
What strategy do I use to push the metal for no choil? I know this is similar to the Fowler method but can't quite figure out putting in bevels without creating a drop from ricasso to edge. I am also assuming that some of the recurve in the above blades is from pushing metal into the front.
Can you share any pointers?
Ed pretty much only forges the basic profile of the blade and grinds in the final 3 dimensional shape. Meaning, after basic forging, the blade cutting edge is quite flush with the choil.
As you continue out along the cutting edge, you can gradually forge in some bevels and the front/tip area.
Don't get caught up in the idea that you always need to forge you knife "to shape" with distal taper and bevels all the way down to a fine edge.
I don't want to begin a long discussion here, but I will say two things:
1.) At one time, I did Ed's "Seminar of the High Performance Blade" at Willow Bow.
2.) I don't necessarily adhere to everything Ed does.
However, I will say this, and it makes perfect sense when one considers potential de-carb at the expense of so much time in the hot forge atmosphere and forging too thin, and that is something Ed says and makes total sense:
"If, one wilst a keen edge win,
Forge it thick and grind it thin."
Without getting into all the hype, hooey and myth... simply forge what you see. By this, I mean dont hit the steel where you dont want it to go, its really that simple. If you dont want a large drop at the choil, dont pinch it down... if it started to "shoulder" on you, just draw it back out even with the ricasso area.
We (as bladesmiths) can make this far too complicated.
That's right Matt.
When beginning down this path of blade smithing, I was under the impression that there were so many things that one "MUST DO" in order to say he had forged his knife or needed to put it together in some particular way, and to all that I say Bull Pucky.
About the only thing that one must do in order to have a really good knife is strict adherence to firm metallurgical practices in heat treating.
Without that, the rest of the knife is junk.
yep, simply hit it where you want it to go, if it goes some where you dont, then hit it back into place ;)
That's the way I forge!
I see guys do all these goody "pre-form" contortions and all kinds of goofy things and I just do what you said - I hit it where I want it to go!
Yeh! hit it! OK now whats a Choil?
Chuck, come on man....it's the part that makes your car bounce ...duh...
I thought that was bad shocks. Or the...well never mind.
Hey Chad, quit pickin on the bow guy.I know I am on the wrong side of town but, can't we all just get along?
( I am gonna go watch some Big10 action)
I'm serious , my choils are bad ...
a rose by any other name...
Chuck, I got the laptop and TV and Sam Adams. if I could make bows like you ... wouldn't matter what a choil is ( the space between blade and guard)
Thanks Chad.
sure, your a good egg even though you're tall
Hey Chuck,
You're on the right side of town. Heck the way you make bows & woolens, you knife handles would be out of sight :) tippit