After seeing some power hammers this weekend at the show in troy, Ive decided to put a small one together. Does anyone know if the hammer or dies will hold up if made from cold rolled? And does 15 to 20 pound hammer seem big enough to be worth messing with? It will be mechanical, not air. thanks Mark
Mark, the SOFA (Southern Ohio Forge and Anvil) group has a hammer building class they do numerous times throughout the year. Everyone shows up and helps everyone else, and then they all leave with a hammer!
I would contact the web master and get info from them:
http://www.sofablacksmiths.org/index.html
Here's a link to the "Clay Spencer Power Hammer":
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIGGw4yuO-8
Here are some better still photos:
http://home.comcast.net/~thomas23/tirehammer.htm
Thanks for the links. That would be just what I need.
I have one of Clay's 50# tire hammers. They work great...tippit
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v110/tippit/Great%20Smokey%20Mt%20Bladesmithing%20Symposium%2009/GreatNorthernGhostjackknife007-1.jpg)
mater if you use the hammer hard, and the dies are cold rolled, non hardened steel they will not hold up for long. They will mushroom/ding very easily, especially if breaking down heavy stock etc.
Tippit-
About how much do you have invested in that power hammer, if you don't mind me asking? I've recently been able to use one for the first time and wow did it make some things go faster.
Jeremy
Jeff, thanks for posting that up.
That right there can make a huge difference in a guy's ability to reduce large stock and even make Damascus.
If a fella can come up with about 1500 bucks, I would seriously look into one of those. As a matter of fact, it would make a great addition to a shop even if a guy already a power hammer and a press.
I use my 50 LG extensively for forging blades.
I've used mine enough that I have created a small divot right in the center of the dies. In reference to Matt's reply, I actually USE that divot. Since the space there is larger than the surrounding area, I can selectively move steel more or less depending on where I place it on the die. That way I can put curves in - or take them out.
I prefer the divot in the dies to plain ol' flat or draw.
There are classes that take place in a few areas all year long that build these things and everyone goes home with a hammer.
I think it's a fabulous idea.
Karl, you may use that divot, but what ive had happen is the dies to "mushroom" real bad if they arent hardened, and this to me wasnt good as every few months they needed to be dressed etc.
If your going through the steps of actually making dies, make them out of something you can harden and temper properly.... will last ALOT longer.
QuoteOriginally posted by Lamey:
If your going through the steps of actually making dies, make them out of something you can harden and temper properly.... will last ALOT longer.
Undoubtedly you are correct, Matt. Maybe I should have worded it better.
Yes - steel intended for die use - like 4140 - is a MUCH better choice for power hammers. I spend little, if no, time dressing my dies. I just sort of actually like that little divot and use it to my advantage.
I have no experience with cold rolled for hammer dies, but can certainly see it going "smoosh" over time.