I am very new to archery. I have a couple recurves I have been shooting for about a month every day. A 40# Samick Sage and 50# Damon Howatt Hunter.
My question is more in regards to my Sage right now. When my local shop first measured my draw length, it was at about 29" and they cut me some Gold Tip 5575 arrows at 28" in length. I went back into the shop the other day and it looks like my draw length has increased to about 30-31" on this bow? I'm pulling it back to about 47 pounds. They made me some 5575s at 30 1/2" and some 7595s at 30 1/2" for my Hunter recurve.
I am using 100gr points.
I decided to try the 7595s on my Sage and I am actually shooting these arrows much better than my 5575s. They just feel better to me and I'm getting better groupings at 10-20 yards.
Does this make sense? All of the charts I read do not show that 7595s would be the best at that draw length and and weight.
Sorry if this is doesn't make sense, I'm trying to soak in as much as I can in this short period of time and it is kind of confusing to me.
Veker,
Yes, it can be and is confusing -- even to those of us that have been shooting for a while.
Carbon arrows are very sensitive to overall length and most of us would never recommend cutting AT THE BEGINNING. You say you started out "measured" for a 29" draw length and they cut your arrows to 28"???
It is common for beginners to increase their draw length as they become more proficient so for now leave all your arrows full length!
Next, for your Sage, I'd recommend shafts of not more than .500 spine AND a 125 grain point (or heavier). Your current 5575 shafts are .400 spine and too stiff in my opinion -- especially with 100 grain points. And the 7595 shafts are .340 I think. Way too stiff for even your Hunter IMO.
So, if you are going to stick with GT arrows, get some full length 3555, put at least 125 grain points on them then just shoot for a while. Until you master the shot execution and are getting good grouping, you will just be chasing your tail and spending money with no real return.
And!!! Finally, the "charts" are VERY poor for recommending arrows for traditional bows. There are many here and especially in the Pow Wow section that can help with shaft selection. Many "pro shops" are compound oriented and frequently recommend shafts that are too stiff and points that are too light.
Arne
Thank you for your advise, I will definately follow that info for now. The people at my local shop are very nice and have helped me a lot but they are compound oriented. I haven't seen a long bow or recurve in their shop.
It's common for archery shops to cut arrows shorter than one's draw length. Todays fall-away rests also act as an overdraw, allowing them to do this.
I agree with above comments. Sound like that shop set you up as if shooting a compound. Too stiff of arrow.
One of many ways to check is:
You said you are getting good groups but are the groups centered on where your aiming? If right handed and your group is off to left a little they are to stiff.
7595 should be twice as stiff as young need. I would also use 145 gr. Field points minimum
So even if I switch to .500 spine, you think 145 grain would be a good choice? I was also thinking about ordering some Beman ICS 500 arrows online.
I shy away from saying "do this" because I am not the Tradgang expert and different things work better for different people. Part of the "journey" into trad archery if finding out what works best for you. But, I will say this and they you can get others advice and to what you think is best.
-Nothing involving compound bows should be carried over when talking traditional.
-Read books on trad archery and watch dvds.
-Get you draw length measured accurately. Lots of books or youtube videos I am sure will give you instructions.
-On Trad arrows you want more tip weight especially for hunting. I think 145 is the minimum I would use. I use a 145 gr. field point with a 75 grain brass insert. I do this because it gives me some FOC and my broadheads are 150 gr. or not much difference.
-In my opinion, yes 500 spine with standard or brass inserts and 145 gr. field tip would be a good starting point.
-Maybe consider Beman Centershots 500??
-IMPORTANT: read, watch, learn good form first then work on tuning your arrows.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6c8_-96h6BY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LceBNHj1FDM
Good form should be your only focus for now! Good luck and keep asking questions.