I have a very short draw 25" AMO and was thinkig of changing my draw to just below my earlobe. This is the same hight relative to my eye as drawing to the side of my mouth. I would then draw 28". I have tried it briefly, but found that the string touched my chest. Apart from that it was comfortable to do.
Does anyoe do this and if so is it consistant enough for repeatable accuracy?
I shoot a low draw eight too, so it would really help with arrow speed.
Cheers
ALex
I would be terribly over-drawn if I did that.
Don't forget the need for a good needle and some thread. Buttons are going to fly. :biglaugh:
How well do you shoot at 25". Changing any part of your draw can be a major undertaking. At least you haven't waited until mid August.
I anchor middle finger to the corner of my mouth AND my first thumb joint behind the jawbone (just below my earlobe).
It would be very difficult for me to anchor as you have described. It would mess up my sight picture considerably.
Good luck!
That's the anchor I use. I doubt if it's the best but I have at least average accuracy.
(http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s64/GordonJabben/995792_534927966553605_1770381226_n_zps10b7c600.jpg) (http://s149.photobucket.com/user/GordonJabben/media/995792_534927966553605_1770381226_n_zps10b7c600.jpg.html)
I did just what you described in the past year and I'm shooting very well. As for the string touching your chest. You are leaning back at full draw to get that extra inch or so. If you lean into the shot at anchor. All the string problems go away. Just make sure when you lean forward you are constantly pinching your shoulder blades together through your release.
I've always found it important that the arrow shaft be under my dominant eye at full draw. I don't think that would be possible if I drew to my earlobe.
That said, when I read of the Welsh longbowmen of the Middle Ages, it says they drew to their earlobe. Of course, their purpose was different from ours: they wanted to put a flight of arrows from many bowmen into a group of approaching horsemen at ranges from 100 - 200 yards out. It wasn't so important that any one archer hit as it was that all archers were able to hit in the same general area, so some of them would find their mark. They were trained to use 100# plus longbows with a heavy arrow and bodkin point to pierce armor. I'm sure drawing back to their earlobes to gain a little extra momentum was a part of that plan. Individual accuracy was not. In fact, practice at ranges less than 100 yards was forbidden, as the king didn't want individual archers getting too good at poaching his deer.
I used to shoot with a guy that did that when he shot thru the chrony. :knothead:
I have tried it and my accuracy suffered but your results may be different.
I'm a lefty and with the back of my arrow moved that far from the center of my eye, all my shots went wide right. So, I scrapped the idea and just accepted my short draw. With enough time, your brain would compensate I'm sure.
Your maximum draw length is determined by your body structure. If you want more performance, my advice is to just work up to a heavier bow weight at your 25" draw length....but I'm by no means an expert.
I draw to the back of my jaw: seems comfortable enough and doesn't bother any of my gear or clothing. Gets me right at 29 1/2 inches. I put the front joint of my drawing hand thumb up against my jaw.
I shot a 25.5-26" draw as well. I dont think there is any reason to draw further. Just get the best performance out of your arrow as you can and you will be much further along and still have the anchor and accuracy you are used to.
I promise a good arrow designed for penetration and tuned perfectly from a 25 inch draw will out perform an average arrow out of a 28inch draw.
I dont know your situation or anything but thought Id throw that info out there if it helps.
I have never found my shorter draw to be an issue or anythintg to be concerned about. In reality I like my shorter arrows.
Im no scientist but i would also think shorter arrows penitrate better than longer arrows of the same weight. REason is the shorter shaft is stiffer and less flexing on impact robbing the arrow of energy when the longer arrows tail end is wagging around trying to straighen out from the impact.
I draw my thumb nail to my lobe, like Gordon Jabben in his photo. very consistent anchor for me.
QuoteOriginally posted by McDave:
[QB] I've always found it important that the arrow shaft be under my dominant eye at full draw. I don't think that would be possible if I drew to my earlobe.
For me, I've always needed to stay" behind the arrow" as I call it. If I draw to a point that I'm looking down the side of the arrow instead of down the top of it, My shooting falls to pieces.
I draw 26 inches on a good day. I anchor at the corner of my mouth with my middle finger. I shoot split finger . I have killed elk deer turkey squirrel fish rabbits etc and i shoot through most of the animals I kill. Accuracy and a sharp BH is what counts.
Focus on accuracy and tuning your arrows oh and have fun
I have a Sky recurve. It is an older take down. Lightweight Medalist limbs that are 66" and draw 28#@28" Those limbs are so smooth that I draw it over my ear and let it there. To release I just pull my ear lobe and the arrow is gone!!!!!!!
All kidding aside,I am a 3under shooter with the middle finger deep in the corner of my mouth. That is far enough for me.
Good Shooting,
Craig
Hey monkeyball
Hey I bet you would get a cleaner and smoother release if you learned to wiggle your ears. :laughing: :laughing:
Wow, lots of responses...
I am frustrated that for the same draw weight I get much less speed and energy than someone with a normal 28" draw length.
I thought that if I can reach comfortably to the ear without feeling physically encumbered then I could take advantage of the extra 3 inches...This would make a real difference.
My main concern is making the anchor reliable and consistant...
Cheers
Alex
QuoteOriginally posted by alex321:
I have a very short draw 25" AMO and was thinkig of changing my draw to just below my earlobe. This is the same hight relative to my eye as drawing to the side of my mouth. I would then draw 28". I have tried it briefly, but found that the string touched my chest. Apart from that it was comfortable to do.
Does anyoe do this and if so is it consistant enough for repeatable accuracy?
I shoot a low draw eight too, so it would really help with arrow speed.
Cheers
ALex
Are you doing this just so your draw will be 28"? I say don't. I believe with good form, you will locate your natural anchor point( you probably already have). Drawing to your earlobe will engage more wrist and arm muscles (as opposed to back muscles) and will also wreak havoc on your release....I think.
There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with a shorter than average draw length.
Just read your last post about being frustrated about less speed, etc. Short answer....no you don't. That 3 inches will make zero difference on putting an arrow through an animal.
Drawing to your ear is nothing new. I draw as I was taught, to my ear lobe. It increases some people's draw length by a couple inches. Button's don't fly either. Check out you-tube videos by Rick Welch. He teaches this method, and he's not too bad of a shot.
I started out drawing this was as a kid but changed over because everybody told me it was "wrong". It worked just fine.
QuoteOriginally posted by hockey7:
Drawing to your ear is nothing new. I draw as I was taught, to my ear lobe. It increases some people's draw length by a couple inches. Button's don't fly either. Check out you-tube videos by Rick Welch. He teaches this method, and he's not too bad of a shot.
Good point, depending on what is meant by "drawing to the earlobe." I also use Rick's method, where one of his anchors is his thumb knuckle on his earlobe. I don't consider this to be "drawing to the earlobe," because the nock of the arrow is still considerably in front of the earlobe, using Rick's anchor. Certainly there isn't a 3" difference between Rick's anchor and a more conventional one. But if what the original poster meant was drawing until his thumb knuckle touches his earlobe, then I would encourage him to do that, as it is still possible for the arrow shaft to be under the dominant eye. But I don't think he will gain much draw length that way. Maybe a half inch from the new anchor and another half inch from shooting with a more upright posture.
I changed to ear that last year and loved it initally. The v between thumb and pointer finger to jawbone, thumb knuckle behind ear, middle finger to back lower tooth and tip of nose to back of fletch. Loved it in warm weather with no head gear on but when it got in the 20s here I had issue finding that anchor. I should have known and practiced with the cold gear on that was my only issue with going to the ear.
QuoteOriginally posted by McDave:
QuoteGood point, depending on what is meant by "drawing to the earlobe." I also use Rick's method, where one of his anchors is his thumb knuckle on his earlobe. I don't consider this to be "drawing to the earlobe," because the nock of the arrow is still considerably in front of the earlobe, using Rick's anchor. Certainly there isn't a 3" difference between Rick's anchor and a more conventional one. But if what the original poster meant was drawing until his thumb knuckle touches his earlobe, then I would encourage him to do that, as it is still possible for the arrow shaft to be under the dominant eye. But I don't think he will gain much draw length that way. Maybe a half inch from the new anchor and another half inch from shooting with a more upright posture. [/b]
Sorry for my lack of clarity. I meant drawing the nock to the ear. I do not find this physically restrictive, as i thought I would. I have not shot yet, but simply practiced drawing whilst using an arrow. Maybe shooting will highlight any problems.
If using the standard Mediterranean draw is a pproblem i was considering a thumb draw, as the Mongolians used. What do you think?
Cheers
Alex
Using a simple and repeatable anchor point that premotes a clean release is your best bet. I really think it would be easier and more efficient to learn the extra few inches of drop on the long shots then to change to anchor that isn't as easy to reperduce. If your looking for a flatter trajectory for target try a lighter arrow...
Interesting discussion. I would suggest that your draw length is.... well..... your draw length.
There's a place that is perfect for every archer, and that's where you need to shoot. I've seen some guys short draw, and I've seen some guys over extend and draw too far; neither of which is optimal--you think?
Seems to me the easiest way to gain more performance with your draw length is to get a bow that exhibits a high degree of preload.
I think you really need a good archery coach to watch what you are attempting...it is hard for me to believe you can maintain good back tension and reasonable overall form drawing that long...without those ingredients all sorts of issues can creep in
DDave
Is your Bow built to your poundage @ your draw length....
Everyone is built different body wise. I tried the string to forehead, not for me....
If you can draw to your ear and shoot accurately, then I say do it....
I started anchoring with knuckle closest to the base of my thumb to my ear lobe based on Rick Welche's training DVD. Did not do it for more draw length, just shot this way better. Absolutely no problem with string touching my chest. Try either chanting your bow or more likely open your stance up. No problem with getting arrow under my eye either. Don't look at the first few inches of arrow under my eye anyway. Mostly aware of arrow at the point. This does not change whether anchoring at corner of mouth or at ear lobe. Another advantage to anchor at ear for me is that I more naturally use back muscles with an extended and lower draw.
After changing my anchor point a few times over the last 15 years all I can say is that you MUST go with what is most comfortable. At least if you are a hunting archer. The problem with complicated or unnatural feeling anchor points is that you fall apart when the big buck is closing in on your position at a rapid pace. I have used Rick Welch's anchor points for about 8 years now. Works well for me. But for some the anchor is too complicated in a hunting situation. I think a good way to find your best anchor point is to set your stance and then set your head! When you draw you should be able to pull the bow to your head. If you have to move your head at all to get to anchor, you are going to have problems. Once you get your head where it needs to be...make sure your anchor point allows you to bring the string to your head without moving it. Whatever feels most natural is probably best as far as anchor points are concerned and draw length should not matter. Just my opinion.
As a thumb draw user, that's not a choice made lightly. Expect to give up the shelf, since you'd shoot from the other side of the bow due to the torque imparted. I draw a solid 38" to the earlobe with thumb, and it is a comfortable, natural draw due to Marfan syndrome. If you really wanted to relearn how to shoot I could set you on your way with a thumb draw, but those three inches aren't going to be magic, as others have said. A bow built to your draw would be better, in my opinion.