I have been fighting target panic for months now. My symptom is locking up without coming to full anchor.
I shoot my longbow almost every day. Tried everything in the book and some things did work for a short duration then I go back to the lock up on draw and can't come to full anchor. I noticed that if I get away from shooting for a few days and then come back and only shoot 10-20 arrows I seem to be better in the way of form and accuracy. Thought I was over bowed at 50 pounds but have the same issue with a 40 pounds bow.
Can fatigue from shooting every day actually cause bad form which leads to TP? Maybe we are also just over doing it in an effort to find a solution and succeed???
Ron
I am no expert on TP, although I have had it for longer than I care to remember, so maybe I am.
As one who had it, I can say it manifests in many forms. You might be unable to get the arrow on target. You might be unable to release when on target. You might be unable to get the draw all the way back, hold it aim and release (snap shooting).
Maybe too heavy of a bow is an issue, but I doubt it. I found that I could close my eyes (not be aiming) and pull that bow back and hold it just fine. Add aiming and it goes to hell.
Not certain WHY you get it. I don't believe it has anything to do with fear of missing. I do know that your brain takes over and does this. It has nothing to do with your muscles being trained or powerful enough.
I started getting it way back when I was still kinda young at work, high stress job, mind going 100 miles an hour and it started. I think the stress part sure might have a part in it.
Never did go away until I went to the compound bow with sights and release. Then I could overcome it, but even then had occasional double clutching of the release. I didn't like the Compound bow at all, except I could shoot the heck out of it, and finally came back to a recurve, but also got the TP back.
Lots of folks have lots of fixes. Maybe they work, but none did for me. I finally switched to shooting lefty. I have no TP lefty. Shoulda done it 30 years ago.
Good luck.
ChuckC
After today's round of poor shooting I have decided to walk away from traditional archery for a while. Target panic has me a mess and my shooting has not improved no matter what drills or methods that I have tried. I can't seem to come to full anchor no matter what so have decided its time for a long break. Maybe I have been over doing it....
Ron
When you say, "My symptom is locking up without coming to full anchor," I interpret that to mean that you draw to a certain point, and then can draw no further, like it would be if you hit a stone wall. This is different from drawing to a certain point and being compelled to release the arrow before coming to full draw. If I am interpreting your remark correctly, you are not compelled to release the arrow early; you just hit a wall and can't draw it any further. You could hold it at 3/4 draw (or whatever) if you wanted to, but you couldn't draw it the rest of the way to full draw.
Is this correct? I think the distinction is important, because the two problems are caused by two entirely different causes. If I'm interpreting your problem correctly, let me know and I'll continue. If not, I'll shut up!
Locking up or hitting a wall about 3-4 inches from the corner of my mouth is the symptom. I have this issue only when looking at the target during the drawing process. If I look away from the target while drawing I can come to full anchor however the arrow wants to be released as soon as I reacquire the target which causes poor shot placement. Ideally I would like to watch the target all the way through the draw and anchor process. I do this if I snap shoot but very rarely come to anchor and I normally hit high or low on the target because I am not coming to anchor.
Ron
Ron,
Please call me, I can definitely help you and give you a new direction. 253-686-3623
Joel Turner
I would definitely take Joel up on his offer to help you before you take any extended vacation from traditional archery.
The symptoms you are describing could either be caused by your conscious mind interjecting doubt into your shot process, resulting in tense muscles that may contract on opposing sides at the same time, creating the feeling that you have hit a wall and can't draw any further, or your subconscious mind trying to shortcut the process of aiming and shooting the bow. From your description, it may be a little of both.
The solution to problems caused by the conscious mind is to shut off cognitive thoughts during the shot process, and replace those thoughts with an increased physical awareness of what you're seeing and feeling. Sometimes cognitive or judgmental thoughts thoughts creep in whether we like it or not, and a mantra can be helpful in shutting them out. Use of the mantra should be considered temporary for this kind of problem, as a mantra, or anything else that occupies your mind, takes away from your awareness of the sensory aspects of the shot, which is what you ultimately need to focus on to become an excellent shot.
The solution to problems caused by the subconscious mind is to re-program the subconscious so that the shot is not triggered until a certain event happens, which Joel calls a non-anticipatory psychotrigger, and to focus your mind on the most important aspect of the shot while you're waiting for that to happen. For that purpose, Joel uses a mantra to focus the attention on "pulling." Joel's method is very effective for this part of the problem, and has ancillary benefits that help with the conscious problems of doubt, anxiety, muscle tension, as well, even though he doesn't address them directly.
So my recommendation would be to call him and work through his program. If you feel that you also have problems with conscious doubt that are causing excess muscle tension, drop me a line and I'll pass along some things that have helped me in that regard too.
Ron, the problem is that once you start doing something wrong in your form and keep doing it, it becomes a hard habit to break. For me TP took a long time to work out of and for me I needed to work on my confidence first. I basically put away the arrows for a while and just drew the bow back. Picked spots and drew the bow and build up the muscle memory and convince myself that I could anchor. Slowly, and I mean weeks later I would add an arrow. Basically I took baby steps to get to where I am. Takes time but it can be done.
Ron, the problem is that once you start doing something wrong in your form and keep doing it, it becomes a hard habit to break. For me TP took a long time to work out of and for me I needed to work on my confidence first. I basically put away the arrows for a while and just drew the bow back. Picked spots and drew the bow and build up the muscle memory and convince myself that I could anchor. Slowly, and I mean weeks later I would add an arrow. Basically I took baby steps to get to where I am. Takes time but it can be done.
Thanks for the input guys. I know the TP issue is solely between my ears. Just need to build up confidence and establish the proper shot sequence. I did call Joel this evening and we are going to walk through the shot sequence while on the phone. Looking forward to it.
Ron
I have had the same problem with hitting a brick wall often several inches in front of my face when drawing on a target with even a 40lb bow, yet drawing off target at something I did not plan on shooting my 60lb bow was comfortable to hold and I had a great sight picture. This problem can be overcome believe me I was terrible and very discouraged.
It was not until seeing Moebow's video that I realized when off target I would draw quickly,automatically using an unrefined rotational draw and kind of immediately arrive at my anchor using the back muscles everyone has been speaking of that I never quite had a handle on. Where as when pulling on target I was focused on aiming while trying to draw straight back and my brain just wanted to let the arrow go every inch of the way.
Speaking with Joel Turner and watching his video has re-wired the disconnect between the sight picture and an immediate need to release the arrow as well as firming up my anchor point.
I now use a defined rotational draw coming back to my anchor point in a fluid motion than just a little more tension until the feather touches my cheek bone and than release, if that does not happen I am able to put my bow down and start over which is remarkable in itself. For me being either my face or my fletching the feather touches high on my cheek bone instead of my nose.
These guys have really helped and I thank them both, I have had about 2 months of shooting consistently well and had suffered badly from TP for years. Shooting has become enjoyable and relaxing again, you might want to remind yourself that you are not under any pressure to immediately improve but I think you will find the change comes pretty quickly.
Time will tell how I do long term, I have not taken a shot yet at a deer but am feeling confident, it will be awhile before getting to a 3D shoot and will see how I do with other people around.
I do not write often but again want to thank the guys that have truly helped me.
Tony
Alright I worked with Joel yesterday while on the phone. Put a clicker on my bow and used the mantra to keep pulling to anchor. After a few shots I was coming to full anchor and making some very impressive shots on target. I have to admit that coming to anchor to set off the clicker was probably one of the hardest things I had to do in life. Its amazing how the mind works. I'll keep the clicker on the bow and keep working to make every shot the best even if I have to let down which I also was able to do as well. Maybe on the road to recovery and better shooting now.
I want to personally thanks Joel for his care and time that he spent with me on this issue. Joel's system really does work and is highly recommended.
Ron
I had the exact same target panic symptoms you did. Struggled with it for 15 years. I tried many fixes. Some would seem to be working for a week or two and then the TP was back. Learned of Joel's system on MBB4 and then attended one of his shot control clinics. I have been shooting TP free with control for over a year now. I'm glad you talked to Joel and have started. It is not a temporary fix, it works for good. You do have to work at it and practice the concentration. I use the feather to nose trigger. I highly recommend attending one of his clinics if you can. Joel is a great teacher. Good luck and "keep pullin"!
Gary
This may get a bit long, so bear with me. This is what helped me after months and months of trying to cure TP using every method and help source known.
Two things I have found that are helping me are Comfort & Confidence. Both physical and mental of each.
First the physical. If you shoot a tab or a thin glove, give consideration to a thicker tab such as a Black Widow, or a thicker glove such as an American Leathers or Black Widow Stick Tight glove. (Note - not pushing BW products, it just works out this way for this purpose). If your finger joints are not comfortable at anchor for longer than two or so seconds, you'll never get mentally comfortable aiming. Try making a switch if for no other reason than to get through this. A lot gets written in reviews about "let's me feel the string". In this case I DON'T CARE about the feel of the string. What I want is to feel myself comfortably at anchor so that I can focus on my aiming, and running the last part of my shot sequence.
Mental - you must be mentally comfortable aiming. A huge part of TP is the "vanishing sight picture". We're afraid that the "good" sight picture we see will vanish, so we let her fly. Often with no thought to our shot routine.....always a bad shot, right?
Start with your thicker glove/tab and only one arrow at the blank bale or bag target. If you don't have a spot to aim at, make one....aiming is what this is all about. Forget your form for a bit. Your goal is to get comfortable aiming (I promise you that your good form will return). Don't worry if your arrow consistently hits somewhere else....just focus on the sight picture that you want to see at anchor (you can retune later if necessary).
At at distance of 4 yards, draw, anchor solidly, and aim at the dot. How long were you able to hold before you let it fly? Good! Now, keep at it at 4' until you're in complete control of your release or the continued pulling through to conclusion of your shot while aiming in the manner you want to aim. When I started this, I had to stay at the bale for a full two days (I spent 21 days last year after one of Rod's clinics working on total form). You may have to stay longer, but however long it takes, do it! If you're not comfortable aiming, you will have a very hard time with your hunting success.
If you're familiar with bridge drills (search function), then that's where this is headed. No matter what, and you have to be completely honest with yourself here, if you shoot a less than comfortable, controlled, and perfect shot....then you need to go back to 4' and start again. I start over several times each day.
This process will not take as long as you think (remember....one arrow only), but getting comfortable aiming.....first by getting finger comfort on the string, and then at anchor, and then in your mind, will put you at ease at anchor, and on the road to riddance of TP.
Hope this can be of help to you. Rob
I recently started gap shooting with three fingers under the nock. Prior to that, I snap shot instinctively. Some days I would shoot unbelievably well, but other days I could hardly hit my target. My average was not good, not too bad, but very inconsistent. When I started figuring my gaps and aiming I did very well. In the past week or so it seems like it has become impossible to hold my bow drawn for any amount of time, not to mention time to set a gap and aim. It doesn't matter what I do, even if I take off my glove and draw bare fingered for some negative reinforcement I will still release on anchor. However, the one in ten shots that everything works out I make a terrific shot. I am not overbowed; I can point my bow at my target, close by eyes and hold at full draw for 20-30 seconds. If I do the same thing and open my eyes at full draw, it seems impossible to even point my arrow at the target before I release. I use a 60# longbow, a 53# recurve and a 45# recurve. Does anyone have any suggestions? Any help would be appreciated.
Bwallace,
Please call me, I have some info for you as to why this is happening and how to gain control of your shot.
JT
Ron,
I experienced the same phenomenon as you described above. I reached my anchor points with closed eyes and when ahooting without "actively aiming" (bale shooting) every time. But couldn`t pull the last two inches (my draw is 29-30 inches depending on longbow type and handle shape, i.e selfbow, Hill or R/D LB) staring at a target.
In my case it was NOT a lack of strength or a physical (temporary) limitation. I am not a beefcake but I wasn`t able to even pull a 40 pound longbow to full anchor. My conclusion was to break up the shooting process into small portions and to ban any visual distraction.
Three things cured this habit in MY case: To me it was very helpful to watch Arne`s (Moebow) videos on ROTATIONAL DRAW over and over again. Secondly, I concentrated on my alignment and draw solely. Actively squeezing the shoulder blades together did the trick for me (like holding a pencil wih your back muscles). And finally I concentrated on my arrow point to touch my index finger with every single shot (like a clicker). I believe in repetition to learn things and I exercised in this described manner for 30 days. After that time it was somehow ingrained and my muscles re-booted their memory.
This is just my experience.
Greetings from Germany
Vincent
After working with Joel I believe that my shooting is better now than in the past 20 years. I can actually work/think through the shot process. I now feel my back muscles and bow arm positioning. When a shot is off target I know what just occurred. I'm able to let down if the shot sequence doesn't feel right. I'm now in control and working through the target panic. The only thing I don't like is the clicker on my bow but its part of the process now and has helped as a psycho-trigger. I can now pull to anchor but deliberately set the clicker another 1/4 inch longer to allow a firm anchor to the corner of my mouth and its also has allowed me to work the back muscles during the drawing process. Everything is working and I'm loving it!
Ron
Ron, good job! I was in the same boat you were in. I am lucky to have Joel as my friend and we shoot together all the time. This past year I made the decision to put a clicker on for one full year. It is now second nature to use it. After I kill an animal with it I will probably try the feather to nose or a tab sear. I am pretty sure I have the shot under control now. Even though I could not get through the clicker with a bear walking past me at 15 yds. I couldn't get it to click as the bear wouldn't stop and I had the thought go through my head to shoot as I was on target. I killed the bear with a good shot but I didn't hit the clicker so I consider it a bad shot. I have 2 deer tags in my pocket and hope to fill them both using the clicker.
Chris.
I too have benefited from Joel's instruction. I've only been out shooting 8 or 9 times since I talked to him, but my muscles are actually tired when I am done. That doesn't happen snap shooting. I can let down if things aren't going right. The problem I still encounter is letting down when things do go right, if I want to. As soon as the feather touches my nose, the shot takes control of itself. I've still got plenty of work to take control of that aspect.
Yeah my muscles are worn out as well after getting to anchor and holding now a days. Agree that snap shooting doesn't tire as much but I sure do like hitting the intended target most times than not.
Just got done shooting and the majority of my arrows were in the 10 ring on a 3-D target 98% of the time. The 2% of my shots that hit outside was my bow arm moving a bit upon release. At least I can now determine why the shot was not on target. I let down twice because I hit the wall and couldn't come to complete anchor. Little steps to improvement.
Ron
Joel helped me several months ago, I was releasing as soon as I got a sight picture, or even before I got one.
The problem I have now is once I am satisfied with the sight picture and start "keep pulling", I have a hard time re-starting. If I use a continuous pull, without pausing at anchor, I get back to shooting too quickly
Any suggestions.
What do you mean by re-starting?
Toby, I've experienced the same problem. Once at anchor and having the right sight picture I would start the mantra but the string wouldn't move. I seemed to be stuck in a static anchor position. What helped me was focusing my concentration. Joel said in the clinic "if you are saying the mantra but aren't feeling the muscles move then let down because they aren't". Once I start the mantra I try to only think about my back muscles pulling the string back. If any other thoughts including aiming come in I try to let down. It has been challenging for me to let go of the aiming thoughts but when I do the arrow seems to go right where I want it to. Hard for me to trust the subconcious to aim. One other thing I have tried is starting the mantra before reaching anchor and pulling through to my trigger without pausing at anchor. Seems to work well on close shots for me.
Gary
Mcdave, Flingblade described exactly what happens to me. With Joel's system I think I stop at anchor, trying not to collapse, then switch aiming to the subconscious and start the mantra. Lots of times there is no movement.
If I don't pause at anchor, but keep pulling right through the shot, I shoot very well, but am fearful that TP will rear its ugly head again.
Toby
I think it's important to understand the difference between the two methods of anchoring and releasing: the dynamic release and the dead release. When Joel talks about drawing almost to the point of clicking the clicker or touching the feather to the tip of your nose, and then saying the mantra until the non-anticipatory psychotrigger happens, he's talking about a dynamic release. There should never be be a point where your draw comes to a complete halt and has to be restarted, which is why I asked the question. Your draw slows way down as you approach the psychotrigger, even to the point that there may be no apparent movement of the arrow, but your back tension should continue to increase without stopping. The movement is no longer drawing the arrow back, but instead around toward your spine, which is sometimes referred to as completing the bottom of the "J".
There is another kind of release, taught by Rick Welch, that I use, called the static or dead release. In this release all movement stops at full draw and the arrow is held with balanced pulling: back tension backwards equals the force of the bow pulling forwards. The release using the static release happens without any further increase in back tension.
It is important to realize that under neither type of release is movement stopped and then restarted, which is a sure way to screw up your shot.
Dave,
You've very accurately describe what is going on. The problem I have is that when I contact Joel I was a mess. Immediately after talking with him I was able to draw aim and conclude the shot, but I think I had been stopping, and this takes care of the target panic bit as I described I don't like the feel of the shot.
I shoot better with a static release, but when I anchor with the feather against my nose and shoot like Rick welch! I release very quickly after acquiring my site picture. Not exactly snap shooting, but it could lead to that. I shoot very accurately this way and the shot feels great.
So, how do I stay away from TP and shoot a static release.
Thanks so much for your help
Toby
Toby, I also use the feather to nose. If you want to shoot a static release you could try one of the triggers that requires no further movement of the back muscles or the string like the tab sear or the sear button on the riser; which I believe is the trigger Joel now uses. I've tried the tab sear and found that when my adrenaline is up I do better with major muscle groups like the back muscles than fine motor movements like the tab sear but everyone is different. I'm sure if you call Joel he can give you more info on using one of those triggers. Good luck!
Gary
Gary, thanks for the help.
What is the sear button on the riser?
Toby
QuoteOriginally posted by toby:
I shoot better with a static release, but when I anchor with the feather against my nose and shoot like Rick welch! I release very quickly after acquiring my site picture. Not exactly snap shooting, but it could lead to that. I shoot very accurately this way and the shot feels great.
So, how do I stay away from TP and shoot a static release.
Same problem I had, and many people have with the static release. The second most common problem is losing back tension with balanced pulling, because there is usually no direct indication of when the balance tilts one way or the other.
The first problem I have solved by the use of an interval timer. An interval timer is a gadget that either dings or buzzes at whatever interval you set. People who are into physical fitness sometimes use it to alternate fast laps with slow laps, etc. You can get an interval timer as a separate gadget, or as an App for an iphone or other device. I use an iphone app, and set the interval for 10 seconds. I turn it on and put the iphone on pleasure mode in my pocket and can feel a buzz every 10 seconds. This gives me enough time to take a clearing breath before I start my draw, and then draw with an approx. 2 sec hold before I shoot. The hold time varies, depending on how long it takes me to take my clearing breath, etc., which is good because then I can't anticipate the buzz exactly. I find it very easy to hold until the buzz goes off. This is much better than trying to count seconds in your head, which is a cognitive activity that takes away from awareness of the shot. With the interval timer, I can focus 100% on the shot and not on how long I should hold. You can, of course, vary the 10 seconds if it turns out to be too long or too short for you. Over time, you will become used to the shot sequence, and may no longer need the timer. I find that if I don't use the timer, things go okay for a while and then I begin rushing the shot again. Use of this timer has improved my accuracy so much no one can believe it! It has totally settled me down so I can focus on the shot, so I can deal with the subtleties of becoming more accurate rather than trying to deal with nervous tension.
I deal with the second problem by drawing the bow until the string hits my eyebrow. By keeping a constant tension on the bone under my eyebrow I am able to keep a very accurate constant tension on the bow, without creeping or increasing tension.
Dave,
So, if I understand this, you are using the buzz as the Psychotrigger?
Toby
That's correct. My mind is conditioned to release the arrow on the buzz. This is similar to the tab sear mentioned by Flingblade above. A tab sear is some kind of spring flipper mounted to your tab that you compress with your thumb and are conditioned to release the arrow when it flips up. Other people may find a ridge or something on the bow handle and press on it with their fingernail or thumbnail until the nail slips off the ridge. The reason I went for the interval timer rather than these things is that pressing down with my thumb has nothing to do with the shot, and I didn't want the distraction. I don't mean to steer you away from it, however, as I understand it works well for some people.
Thanks Dave, you have been a big help. I need to get back on the right track again.
Toby
Toby, The sear on the riser is just anything you can hook your fingernail on and then increase pressure until it pops off. I think Joel has a small screw on his riser that he hooks his fingernail on. Others like McDave said use a ridge in the riser. There is another shooter that draws with his fingers open and then brings his index finger and thumb together and releases when they touch. There are all kinds of non-anticipatory triggers a shooter can come up with. I am going to try a clicker after this hunting season is over. Don't want to change anything up mid-season.
McDave, Do you use your timer trigger while hunting?
Gary
I haven't actually hunted since I came up with this timer. However, when I shoot in the morning with my friends, we divide our time between roving and shooting at targets. We are fortunate to belong to a club that allows both. When shooting at targets, I use the timer. When roving, I don't. I'm sure that the next time I hunt, I won't use the timer. Can you imagine sitting in a blind or a tree stand for hours with a buzzer going off in your pocket every 10 seconds (even if the battery would last that long)? Fortunately, there seems to be enough carryover that I'm sure I can hold for the few shots I get to take when hunting. I definitely do use it when shooting in 3D tournaments, which I credit for my win in my category at Petaluma.
Good conversation folks. Please keep it up.
Just wanted to bring everyone up to speed on my progress. Installed the clicker and worked with Joel to establish a mantra of 'keep pulling' with a firm draw and anchor. I'm shooting very good now and seem to have complete control of the shot sequence. As a result I am shooting better now than in my entire lifetime. Confidence level is back and a full anchor with back tension is working. Still don't like the clicker but it certainly helps me get to my anchor point so its staying on the bow.
Just curious...Has anyone removed the clicker from their bow after defeating target panic and maintained good form and solid anchor?
Ron
That's a great question Ron. Joel helped me and I pull the feather to my nose, fixed the quick release, but then as I mentioned before I started to freeze when it was time to "keep pulling". So, I went back to a more static release which I prefer, but I can sense the quick release trying to take over again. I don't like pulling the feather to my nose, kind of like your clicker.
So, I am in search of another way. I hate being so mechanical, one of the reasons I switched from C bows. I shoot really well using the Rick Welch method, just need to stay away from releasing on sight picture. I might do bale work using feather to nose as trigger, and the welch method for the rest of my shooting. Don't know if it will work, but worth a try.
I want shooting to be fun.
Toby
Just came in from shooting. I am going to go back to using the feather touching my nose as my trigger. It is very tempting to simply draw, look, and shoot, but I can feel the old bad habits creeping back in.
So, back to draw, aim, and "keep pullin" till the feather touches my nose. I really have to work at this, wish there was a way to initiate/continue the pulling.
Toby
Yeah at least for me it takes a long time to get completely used to shooting with a non anticipatory psychtrigger. There are times when I do not shoot well with it and if I try a shot without the trigger I shoot great. But what keeps me shooting withe the trigger is that in the back of my mind I know that if I stop shooting with a trigger, the gremlin will eventually be back. So now I just shoot right through the bad stretches with the trigger and eventually it gets easier again.
Lee, wise words, that's what I need to do.
Toby
Ron,
I use the feather to nose but haven't tried shooting without a trigger. I know the gremlin will take over the shot again very quickly if I do. That said, I have been doing some bare shafting to get arrows tuned for my longbow and didn't have any trouble. I fought tp for 15 years before I found this website and I am just glad to have a system that works. I am going to try a clicker after hunting season to see how I like that. Tried one briefly in the past but tore it off my bow when the clicker cord kept getting hung up in brush while hunting.
Lee,
I have had the same experience and have found that for me it was not concentrating on the right thing. My mind really doesn't like to give up the aim to the subconcious. If I am correct you are the one using the index finger and thumb touching as a trigger?
toby,
One of the things I have been doing to help is separate the draw and aim from the execution of the shot. I draw off target to anchor. Then move the arrow on target and aim. Then I mouth bleat to practice stopping the deer. Then I start the mantra and focus my concentration on my back muscles and elbow coming back. If my concentration is right there isn't any delay or problem with bringing the string back. If I am still thinking about aiming or anything else it sticks and I try to let down and start over. I don't do this all the time just another way to practice. I recently took a shot at a squirrel where I came to full draw and followed the squirrel as he made several jumps until he paused long enough to start the mantra and execute the shot. The string came back and the arrow went right where the squirrel was but those buggers are far faster than deer at jumping the string.
Sorry for the long post guys but I like to hear other shooters experiences using Joel's system. Thanks, Gary
Gary,
That's a great post. I have trouble bare shaft tuning, I just got a new longbow and tuning is not going smoothly, so I rely more on paper tuning with fletch, not what I prefer.
I think your observation about concentrating and giving up aiming to the subconscious is spot on, at least that is exactly what I am dealing with.
I am trying something similar, I look at my arrow/riser as I draw/anchor, then aim, then try to think pull with my rhomboids. This seems to be helping, I was pulling with my arm and that was literally going no where.
I am going to stick with it, just wish it was as smooth as shooting in one continuous motion.
Toby
I have found that once you eye the intended target the aiming process is complete. The next thing I do is think about pulling to anchor and let the clicker tell me when to release. You actually have to break down the shot sequences into several stages to be successful. I would aim and draw in one sequence and nothing was telling me that I was at anchor so my subconscious mind would tell me to release. My goal with the clicker is to come to full draw and when the clicker goes off I am there and release on command. If I release before the clicker goes off which is somewhat common when first starting this program I then measure that shot as a failure and need to work harder on the next shot by analyzing first what I did wrong. Normally its just improper use of back tension that is at fault. If everything is right with the sequence including back tension you feel very little resistance and the weight of the bow feels minimal.
Ron
Ron,
It sounds like you have a good plan. Keep us posted on how the clicker works for you. That is something I have considered as well. May go that route.
Toby
Gary yeah I touch my pointer finger to my thumb. I have been lucky enough to get two shots at deer this year so far and I used this psychotrigger and here are the results! The shots felt great!
(http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx203/Lee1_photos/doe.jpg) (http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Lee1_photos/media/doe.jpg.html) (http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx203/Lee1_photos/buck3.jpg) (http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Lee1_photos/media/buck3.jpg.html) (http://i756.photobucket.com/albums/xx203/Lee1_photos/buck2.jpg) (http://s756.photobucket.com/user/Lee1_photos/media/buck2.jpg.html)
For myself the way to conquer TP was to develop a dynamic shot sequence. I believe the reason I was having my issues is that as Joel says, when you come to full draw, tension and anxiety increase, your mind naturally is working against you, wanting you to release the string so you release the tension/anxiety. Forcing yourself to hold only makes it worse in my opinion. There has to be balance in the shot. If it takes you 1.5 seconds to draw to anchor, holding for 5 seconds is going to transform your shot from dynamic to static and ruin the balance or the rhythm.
Lee,
Could you explain in more detail how you use your finger touching your thumb as a trigger?
Thanks
Toby
What I do is look at the intended target, draw slowly but normally hit a wall around the corner of my mouth which is almost a full anchor and where the TP gremlin is located. I think to myself keep pulling until the clicker goes off right in the corner of my mouth at full anchor and using the back tension to get the full draw and anchor.
Ron
I have shot with a tab or a glove for years, and I can't deny that I love the traditional aspect of it. I was snap shooting all of that time and created some very unsavory habits that wouldn't hardly ever allow me to come to full draw while looking at my target or my hand giving out implicitly as soon as I anchored (target panic). I spoke with Joel Turner of Ironmind Archery and he gave me some great advice on how to combat target panic. Retraining myself proved to be more of a problem than I expected and upon further thought I realized why exactly. I have had ms for a number of years and the most attacked portion of my central nervous system is what controls my right hand. Creating a new neuropathway ( repetitive shot sequence) is much more challenging and time consuming because of this. I don't think its impossible, but defiantly improbable. Some day it might work out, but until then I will shoot a mechanical release with a wrist strap. I shoot three fingers under, so when I use my release my anchor is right where my index finger would be. I have not noticed any spine issues with my arrows. I have noticed a huge increase in accuracy because I can slow down my shot and concentrate on every aspect of it prior to the release. I just know that I would no longer be able to shoot in tournaments in traditional class if I quit finger shooting all together. Its too bad that a mechanical release is not "trad" but an ILF take down with adjustable center shot, I have shot with a tab or a glove for years, and I can't deny that I love the traditional aspect of it. I was snap shooting all of that time and created some very unsavory habits that wouldn't hardly ever allow me to come to full draw while looking at my target or my hand giving out implicitly as soon as I anchored (target panic). I spoke with Joel Turner of Ironmind Archery and he gave me some great advice on how to combat target panic. Retraining myself proved to be more of a problem than I expected and upon further thought I realized why exactly. I have had ms for a number of years and the most attacked portion of my central nervous system is what controls my right hand. Creating a new neuropathway ( repetitive shot sequence) is much more challenging and time consuming because of this. I don't think its impossible, but defiantly improbable. Some day it might work out, but until then I will shoot a mechanical release with a wrist strap. I shoot three fingers under, so when I use my release my anchor is right where my index finger would be. I have not noticed any spine issues with my arrows. I have noticed a huge increase in accuracy because I can slow down my shot and concentrate on every aspect of it prior to the release. I just know that I would no longer be able to shoot in tournaments in traditional class if I quit finger shooting all together. Its too bad that a mechanical release is not "trad" but an ILF take down with adjustable center shot, adjustable tiller and draw weight is. tiller and draw weight is.
Sure Toby,
I pick a spot, draw and anchor with my pointer finger open on my bow hand. In my mind I tell myself keepmovingkeepmovingkeepmoving and I consentrate on moving my index finger toward my bow. When my finger touches my thumb I release. It very simple and I don't have to add anything to my bows or arrows.
BWallace and Lee, thanks for sharing, glad you both have found a solution.
I am going to try your method lee.
Thanks again
Toby
Cool let me know how it works for you.