The Gap Compromise Video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAEn5cAS6V4&list=UUD0ESYWAUqh8JXKtxJ8Mnvw&index=12)
Jimmy, thanks for the video. I just have a few questions because I do not seem to shoot the same. Say I aim at a point like you are, I never seem to shoot high unless I am within ten yards and it is never more than a few inches. Past that I am either dead on or having to compensate for drop. I have never had a huge gap like you do at close ranges. So I am just wondering how you aim for your arrow to shoot high so severly. thanks
Robert
The height depends on how high your anchor is. I anchor lower than a lot of folks so my gap is larger. I'd have to see you shoot to say but if you are not anchoring very high then something else is causing it. Most folks suffer from the opposite; their point on is about 60 yards so their gaps are much larger than mine.
That makes alot more sense to me now. I have not been around many other shooters so I have not seen alot of variation.
Jimmy,
I'm trying some of what you're showing here but have a question, does it matter at what point you put your point on during aiming? In other words before your draw or after you're at full draw?
I'm trying to see the point in my side vision at full draw and place below and aiming point to determine gaps.
Don't know if what i'm doing is correct but my gaps are a lot smaller 6" at 10, 12" at 20, and then at 30 back to around 8" - 10". My range is not perfectly flat so out to 20 pretty level but going slightly uphill back to 30 and beyond.
My bow is 52.5#@29+ and the arrows are 505 grains and 30.5 to BOP.
What your assessment?
Superb video! Very useful information!
What gpp are you shooting in longbow / self bow class jimmy?
Those gaps are very workable but I'm not sure if you seeing your arrow or not by what you explain. You do need to see the point and put it on the string as shown in the video. Aim at it just like you are shooting point on. This will let you see if your left to rights are correct. Then you can measure the height. Hope that makes sense.
If I put the point of my arrow on a vertical line and take shots at various distances I do end up with results like you describe but all of my arrows will be to the left of the line. How do you compensate for that?
Arrows are stiff. Increase point weight.
No, they are correct, and bareshaft correctly.
After reading this thread I went out and did some experimenting. I anchor with my middle finger to my incisor and my thumb knuckle behind jawbone etc. I've never been able to get the string directly in front of my eye.
I tried moving my anchor down so that my first anchor is my index finger rather than the middle. When I do this I can get the string right in front of my eye and gapping is much more feasible.
I've been shooting around 8.75 avg. on 3D most of the time with my current anchor, but I am going to fiddle around with moving it down a bit and see if I can make it work. I want to be able to shoot 9 avg. consistently.
Jimmie,
Not sure if you answer my question or i'm still confused.
"Aim at it just like you are shooting point on"
Can I do this while at full draw, or do I need to have the point on the intended target prior to drawing?
This is new to me as i've always only looked at the target and shot.
Don't aim until you are at anchor. All I do at predraw is get my hand set and then engage the back.
Thanks, it appears from your videos that perhaps you were aiming prior to the draw.
Also i'm shooting split (again) how does this effect the sight picture and gaps?
mrjsl, did you ever try canting the bow ?
QuoteOriginally posted by njloco:
mrjsl, did you ever try canting the bow ?
Yes I know what you mean, but I don't want to be dependent on a certain amount of cant to hit my spots. I want to be able to cant any which way and still hit.
Thanks for the video. Really good job! After I get my arrows tuned up I need to give this a try. .
I'm a gap shooter and have always had a lot of up and down variation in my shooting. I had always been trying to figure out a different gap for each different yardage I was shooting. After seeing this video and putting Ranger B's system it into effect, I now have only 2 different gaps to contend with. 1 have one gap which works for 10 and 30 yards ( the same gap), about 16-18 inches below target. And one for 15-25' about 24 inches below target. My point on is aiming at 6 o'clock at 40 yards. this system has improved my shooting immensely.
Nice video. I have always shot more of a instinctive style or split vision combo. I do like to watch a good gap shooter when I go to a 3D shoot. Some of these folks really know how to very well using this method. I may have to give it a shot so to speak. It makes a little more sense after seeing your video.
Thanks for taking the time to explain this; good info!
Thank you for taking the time to make this great video. I have referenced several people to check out your video. I truly enjoyed the video!!!
Cant works best for me. Plus I can use a wee bit heavier arrow in my canting.
Great video.. Really made me understand why shooting a faster bow makes my accuracy better. My point on is roughly 20 yards. Makes for shooting further distances rough because I do not like holding above the target..
When you are shooting at a deer. Are you using the pt. of your arrow as a pin to locate your gap. Direct vision. Or looking at pt. of your arrow with peripheral vision to relate gap to where you want to hit
Thanks for the video Jimmy. I learned a lot from it. What are your arrow length that gives you that kind of gaps? I have started applying your method and found that my gaps at 15 -25 yards are around 17" - 19" . Putting my tip right at the bottom of a fita 80cm target face will get me in the gold. However my upcoming shoot is 33 yards and I have yet to test out at that distance.