This is the first time I've seen myself shoot. I'm a novice but I've got thick skin so please don't try to spare my feelings. I'd love your feedback. Thanks! Oh, yeah, I have iMovie on my Mac so I had a little fun with it.
Video here: jfelkins (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PLvsotSjOOs)
You seem to have a nice fluid relaxed style, with good followthrough. You don't quite seem to come to full draw. If you look at your forearm, it never quite makes it back in line with the arrow. Your shoulders also seem a little open to the target at full draw. You seem to be enjoying your shooting, which is the most important thing.
Thanks, what does "shoulders seem a little open" mean? Thanks again.
PS I grew up in Fresno and lived in Sac for a few years. Great place, my folks are still in Lodi. I need to get dad off the compound!
I agree with McDave (usually do). I'd like to see you get your bow hand down so the "heel" of your thumb is down on the grip. With that wrist so straight, you are in the weakest position. Just bend the wrist up and that will put you in pretty good position.
Look at Terry's form clock, which is one of the permanent posts at the top of this forum. You will see a diagram of how your shoulders should be parallel with the arrow. "Open" would be when your shoulders are pointing to the left of the target (or, in your case, to the right of the target!)
There are a few of us in Sacramento who are avid traditional shooters. Be sure to look us up when you come visit your dad!
I agree with McDave also.
In addition to what he said I might add, Your holding your bow with the wrong hand, (what are you using for a target backing?) You sure seem to be close to that target, and it's snowing outside.
Keep up the good work and check the form clock. Other than what McDave pointed out you seem to be doing fine.(Really would like to know what your shooting at though, my wife walked by and saw the video and said, "I sure hope that's not their linen closet!" And you really are CLOSE!
Keep watching your self and keep the footage and then you can compare down th eroad and changes will be easy to see. Just does not look like the back muscles are being really used as at full draw to me it looks like maybe a little short . You shoulder blades should be able to hold a softball between them at full draw[pinched]...hey - I am still learning after aLOT of years. Great job
For a novice, very good.
I've been shooting almost 25 years and still looking to improve my form, it's an ongoing process of maintaining\\building consistency and confidence, keep up the good work.
Good tip from sticbowhntr about filming :thumbsup:
Thanks all. As far as holding the bow with the wrong hand...I've been told I was made backwards!
Here is a link to the DIY target instructions: DIY Target (http://archeryreport.com/2009/12/diy-lifetime-archery-target/)
It's not the linen closet but it is about 6 35 gallon bags worth of clothes. You can see from the condition of my garage that we just moved and I got everyone to pitch in some cloths they were getting rid of...sorry Goodwill!
I'm just focusing on the spot I want to hit and shooting at it. That's the way I want to shoot. unless that's bad I'll keep at it.
Does shooting aerial targets help eye hand coordination or is it just for fun? Thanks again. I'll keep working at it.
Looks pretty good....but I think you are cheating yourself out of a bit more draw length....that would improve your back tension and alignment.
See if you can find an anchor a little farther back. This may also correct the right movement of the bow arm at release.
Way to stay after it!!!
Because I'm left handed to "open" up some I need to "open" my shoulders to the left right? It seems as I do this my right (bow) forearm will be more at risk of string slap. How do I avoid that? Thanks!
Can't wait for my Tradgang DVD to get here!
"Open" to the target means that your shoulders are angling away from the target, with your chest partially facing the target. "Closed" to the target means that your shoulders are perpendicular to the target. We are recommending that you try shooting with your shoulders in more of a closed position.
If you look at the first example on page 1 of Terry's form clock post, that person has his shoulders open to the target. The next example down, with the clock face superimposed, shows the shoulders perpendicular to the target.
If you study the clock face example, which shows good allignment, you will see that even with shoulders perpendicular to the target, there is still room to shoot the bow without string slap.
The string will be moving pretty close to the bow arm, however, and there might be string slap, for a variety of reasons, some controllable, some not. If you can learn to shoot with your shoulders perpendicular to the target, it will probably lead to better consistency. Some people, because of their body types or other reasons, prefer to shoot with their shoulders open to the target, and they can become good shots too, although it does add some additional variables that need to be controlled.
Masters of the Barebow III is another good DVD that covers some of these questions, and I would recommend that you view this DVD when you have an opportunity.
I guess I didn't answer your question. String slap is kind of a secondary issue, in that if you're doing everything you can to shoot with good form, you're also doing everything you can to avoid string slap.
Good allignment, coming to full draw, dynamic release, proper bowhand grip, good followthrough, all help you to shoot more accurately, and coincidentally, to avoid string slap.
It looks like you are pulling your hand back and then laying your head into it. That's backwards. Hold your head motionless and bring the hand back to a solid anchor.
I'm also a little different than some here in that I don't move my hand back from anchor at the release. I tuck my hand up against my jaw, middle finger touching the tooth behind my upper canine and then relax the back of my hand until the string leaves but hold my arrow arm and elbow locked.
Thanks All! My brain is now full! I'll start working on these suggestions. I still need to study the "shot clock" some more to digest it. Masters of the Barebow III is now ordered!
QuoteOriginally posted by jfelkins:
Masters of the Barebow III is now ordered!
You think your brain is full now!!! :biglaugh: :biglaugh: :biglaugh:
uh-oh!
I just need to focus on a few things and then move to the next step.
BTW: I'm assuming I need to solidify my form before tuning? I have no clue how to tune a recurve. I just bought arrow according to what 3 rivers told me.
I would encourage you to get involved with tuning now. Your shooting looks consistent enough that I think you would benefit from it, and it is fun to do. Having arrows that are well matched to your bow will increase your enjoyment and confidence. Of course, you won't be able to tell much difference until you shoot at a little further distance than five feet....
Despite what you may feel from the comments you've received, your form is already as good as most other shooters'. You just need practice at different distances to learn the trajectory of your arrows.
Thanks, your really right about the distances. Im just guessing at this point.
QuoteDespite what you may feel from the comments you've received, your form is already as good as most other shooters'.
'S true. I know some very good archers who have a textbook form but who get into trouble in the woods where there is always something in your way or the terrain is uneven.
You gotta do what works for your geometry. We are all put together a little different (but start with what generally works for most). I've been honing my bad habits since before the Apollo Program so my form is ingrained beyond correction. It's much easier to suggest changes to yours. :laughing:
A couple of questions.
I read the following from the tuning guide that was recommended: Next, set the brace height at the low end of the bowyers recommendation, just twist or untwist the string to set the brace height.
How do I know what that is?
#2. I wear a glove to shoot and my the tip of my finger is squashy with the glove on. I don't feel rock solid using it to find my anchor tooth. Any thoughts/tips?
Thanks!
If you call the bowyer who made your bow, he will probably tell you what the recommended brace height should be. Otherwise, with the type recurve you are shooting, 8" might be a good place to start. Then try 8 1/4" and 8 1/2" and see what shoots best. The brace height is measured with a bow square from the string to the deepest part of the grip.
You want your fingers to reach the end of the glove, otherwise you won't get a clean release. The glove should fit as snugly as possible while still allowing you to hook your fingers.
First learn to draw the bow to full draw, then find an anchor. As Terry mentioned, "I think you are cheating yourself out of a bit more draw length." When you come to full draw, your finger may be further back than your current anchor tooth. Find something else to anchor on, like your thumb knuckle against your jawbone, for example. Something that is convenient when you come to full draw, not something that is arbitrary and forced.
BTW, Ken Beck of Black Widow Bows has a good section on tuning arrows in Masters of the Barebow II.
Ok, thanks. I'll check with Chad. I have a chek-mate hunter 2.