I picked up a '77 bear Kodiak Mag and it should be here this week. I originally thought my draw length was 29" but it appears it's 28". The bow is 45lbs and 52 AMO. I have a bunch of two blade bear and magnus heads that are 125gr and I'll be hunting whitetails. I want carbon arrows and I was thinking beman mfx since they come with heavy weight inserts and our local pro shop has a lot of them in stock. I'm guessing a 400 spine and was thinking 30" in length. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Also I shoot three under if that makes a difference.
Next I need to decide if I should shoot shelf, or weatherest. I plan on shooting TONS of arrows a year, I'm absolutely obessed with shooting traditional gear after switching over from compounds. I'm guessing the weatherest will give me the best flight and easiest tuning? I noticed the shelf on the bow is fairly long and although radiused, it's not a real curve like a lot of newer bows. I don't seem to shoot as well with the bow canted a lot, I'm wondering if I would be able to cant less with the weatherest as well?
Finally, I'm trying to stay on a budget and cant afford to be buying new arrows all the time. I'm wondering if vanes and an elevated rest would be better than fletchings for longevity? I don't plan on ever shooting a deer over 20yds, but possibly some shots at small game at 30yds for fun. I know right now I'm streching my range out which means a few arrows hit the dirt from time to time and I really notice some wear and tear on my fletchings from the shelf and misses. Maybe I'm being too much of a cheapskate and I should just buy a fletching jig and refletch from time to time instead though?
I appreciate any advice you guys can give a newbie, I'm reading a ton on here and really becoming a "sponge"!
First of all do not get to picky. If you are on a budget (smart move) stick with simple things. Get a Bear hair rest, put a toothpick or a matchstick under it to elevate the shaft a bit before you stick it on. You can pick them up for a couple of bucks. Stay with feathers if you can swing it. If you are planning on some 3d shoots, a lot of them will not let you use an elevated rest. They also seem to make a bit more noise using carbon if you are planning on hunting. The initial cost of carbons are high especially if you have to do a lot of experimenting to find a shaft and length that works with your set up. In the long run you will probably save a few bucks just based on the durability of carbons. With some luck your pro shop should be able to find you a shaft without having to go through to many. I prefer wood but the cost of some I have seen lately rival the most expensive carbons. However, with the work that goes into them I can understand why they cost so much.
Three fingers under does make a difference in arrow flight and point of impact arrow selection/spine and a bunch of other factors I am not qualified to help you with. I have never shot three under other than just playing around. Don't know why I never made three under my style. It is more comfortable than split finger to me. Some of the other guys here will have to address that one.
Good Luck! I too am a convert from the 80's. Trad is addictive.
:archer2:
I use both vanes and feathers for both practice and hunting.
The shafts I use are all aluminum or wood.
I have tried carbons but I don't like 'em. Seem to be more trouble than they are worth.
I also have used an elevated Hoyt Pro rest or a Bear Weatherest since 1970.
Arrow flight is about the same with vanes and feathers.
I would suggest using wood shafted arrow to start.
They are easy for a new guy to make up and seem to work pretty well most of the time.
There is a lot of good knowledge and experience available to you in this website.
Good luck.
Charles.
First of all I think you will find 400 carbons too stiff. I shoot .500 spine, cut to 29 1/2" with a 50gr. insert plus 145gr. broadhead. My K-Mag is 48@28 or 45@ my 27" draw. The K-Mag shoots great off the shelf, just Bear Hair or a little Velcro and you are good to go. Definately quieter than an elevated rest with either carbons or aluminums. Great bows- good luck with it!