My arrows are hiting the left side of my arrow rest,just above my hand(Im a right handed shooter). Im shooting a new to me Shrew, 62@28,55/75's with 250 gns up front, cut to 29"...arrows are porpoising(sp?),no matter where I set the nock. This is the first time Ive ran into this while tuning,any info would be appreciated. Thanks
Classic signs of a stiff arrow...but could also be bow hand torque.
Thanks shoot08, Thats what I was thinking, more likely torque in my case. Was shooting a PLX with a little different grip,so trying to get used to this one..Ill try adding some wt up front this pm and see what happens.
interesting. I've had the same problem. Bottom right side of arrow (about 3:00 on arrow)has a streak from rubbing on outside of shelf.Have you had any luck curing this problem?
No, still making light contact with the shelf..Ive tried many different spines, held the bow every way imaginable,rotated feathers,nocks are loose.When barshafting my bare shafts are grouping with my fletched out to 20 yds,but all arrows are porpoising regardless of nock point position...? Dont know what else to try but take a hammer to it.
I have the same problem. I think it must be some kind of form problem or pressure on the nock at full draw?
What's the highest nock point that you've tried?
Have you messed with your brace height?
Is your Shrew a longbow or recurve? 55/75 Goldtips I think would be light for the bow your shooting. I shoot 55/75 Goldtips out of my 54#@28" Shrew longbow with 145 grains up front cut to 29" and get great flight and no wear marks on my rest. If you are shooting split finger you should be about 1/4"-3/8" above center for your nock point and 7"-7.5" on your brace height. Of course this is figuring your shooting a Shrew Longbow. I would go heavier on your spine and see what that gives you. You could drop your point weight but I suspect you will have to jump up to 75/95 to get Goldtips to fly decent from that bow. Feel free to ask more questions or if I were you I would give Ron LaClair a call direct. He would be more than happy to help you out. Good luck.
Tim
Thanks all, I am shooting a Shrew Longbow.Never really thought of going up to 75/95,just assumed they would be way to stiff, But Im willing to try anything now. think ill order some 7595's and some axis 340's just to see if the slim diam. will make a difference. Dan : I have moved the brace hgt from 7-7.5 many times...Guess ill call Ron tommorrow....thanks everyone Any more ideas any one , just throw it out there, Imm willing to try it Shane
Would love to know the answer to this, I've worn out my arrow rest, 54# at 28", 55/75 GT, 580 grain total. I quit worring with it just started shooting, let us know when you find your answer.
longbow55, Im waiting on some GT 75/95's, Ill let u know what happens....thanks everyone.
I have same problem with Black Swan 55# @ 28", draw 29", FF string. I'm shooting goldtip 55/75 with 100gn insert and 300gn point, 31.25" length which I thought were weak. I tried stiffer 75/95 goldtips but rest strike and arrow flight was worse (arrow movement is up and down not fishtail). I also tried different nock points. I can't figure it out. I don't have this problem with other bows I shoot.
Same here CEO, Always tuned using O.L.'s planning method to minimize the need for perfect form-lord knows mines not perfect- have always managed to get good arrow flight with my longbows,this one has me stumped though...
Some bows need a high nock point. I'd start at 5/8" and work from there. I had an old Bear that I had to set at 1" to get it tuned.
If you tuned your bareshaft to hit with a fletched group, then put feathers on, your arrow would become too stiff after fletching. You have to tune the arrow slightly weak before fletching - 3-4" right of the group @ 20 yards.
Also, if you are torquing the string upon release, even slightly, you can have he same problem. Watch for excess third finger pressure/contact. It might not have shown up with more forgiving bow/arrow.
Bradd you are probably right about string torque being the cause of rest strike, at least in my case. I do get a sore third finger when I shoot this bow.
This may be my problem too ( string torque),Ill get someone to watch me today. This bow is 4" shorter than any of my others, with a different grip.Ive been so preoccupied with this shelf contact thing,I could be screwing up my shot and not even be aware of it. By the way..What could I use on my shelf to mark my arrow so I can tell where the contact is being made ?
What nocks are you shooting in the Goldtips? Also how do you have your string set up? If you are running a single nocking point on the string try and using two of them. One above and one under. Nocks in the arrows have a ton to do with arrow flight, in the past I used the Slim line nocks from Carbon Express in Goldtips. Just seemed more consistant. Shoot me your address and I'll throw some your way. Hope this helps,
Ed Schlimme
57# Shrew Samuri 60" bow
Axis 340 31.5" long
225 grains up front
3 fletch 5.5" LW Hard Helical
took me a while to tune my shrew
my specs are very similar to yours
i shoot beman mfx 340 29 1/4" 4x4"fletch
350grs up front
if you shoot 3 feathers shoot cock feather "in" that solved a LOT of my problems
Put lipstick on the fletch or baby power on the riser and the hit should show up.
Shorter bow = steeper string angle = more pressure on third finger. Truthfully, if possible, there should be little or no ring finger contact at all. It is only used to get the string back, then taken off or just rested on the string at anchor.
try to shoot the bow without the ring finger, if the problem goes away you know it was string torque. if the problem persists check the bow tiller.
Just got in from work,wasnt able to shoot tonight. I plan to spend some time in the am shooting and trying some of your suggestions. Ill update you guys and answer some of the above questions afterwards. Thanks for all the help. Shane
I found that my Shrew had a sweet spot when I gripped it. I started by using a lot of heel in the grip, the way I shot other longbows, and had a little trouble with arrow flight. I went to a higher wrist grip and it helped with torque issues and I was able to tune better. Based on your specs, I would guess that your arrows are a little too stiff. Good luck and let us know what helps.
champ38,
Finally had time to work on this same problem.As with you ,I encountered this problem when I switched bows. Since my hunting bow setup worked fine , I eliminated form as the problem.The easiest things to change were nock point and point weight ,so I started with nock point.I used lipstick on shelf, cleaning arrow after every shot.I also shot indoors at 10 yards so as not to be distracted by erratic arrow flight.Then I started moving nock up 1/32 at a time. The rub mark moved down around towards the bottom of the arrow as I moved the nock up. When the mark was eliminated I went outdoors and shoot at 25 yards. Bingo! arrows fly straight.
Hope this works for you.
Good luck
Thanks rklimber- The wheather has been rough aroound here the past few days,alot of wind and rain,so I havnt been able to get out and work on it. Hopfully that will change today, got alot Im going to try thats been mentioned above. thanks alot everyone,Shane
oK, cleared off and tried it again..good news is, figured out it was my ring finger causing the problem, shot with 2 fingers, perfect arrow flight. So, its not the arrows,as I wanted to think, it's ME !Apparently my third finger has become much more of a factor with this 58" vs. the 62" I was shooting. Weird thing is I shot recuves this length when I was younger,before picking up the longbow,dont think I ever had this problem..anyway just glad to know what the problem is. I can only shoot 2 fimger for 4-5 shots though before they give out, so how do I minimize the effect of my third finger shooting 3 split ?
Make sure you use a realllllyyy dddeeeeeepppp hook - fingers curled back towards you, with the string either before the joint crease or in it. Use the third finger to draw and hold anchor. The the moment before release(once you acquire the target),take it off or let it slide down to 'rest' on the string. It will become second nature after a little time.
When I make sure I have good pressure with my index finger on the string, and maintain that, it seems to keep my elbow down, and I shoot MUCH better. And also a deep grip on the string.
Try to increase the amount of index finger pressure on the string. This should cause the ring finger to relax and not play as much of a role which should eliminate your problem. Also, if you are using a glove try a tab instead. Good luck.
Well all I needed to do was use a deeper hook and that appears to have been the only problem. Imm able to shoot a bare shaft into the center of my group with no tail wobble or shelf contact. I think up until I made a consciense
effort to keep the end of my fingers pointed back at me, I was letting the string roll to the tips as I drew...Im not sure what was going on from there with my ring finger,cause I cant see it at full draw, but must have been torqueing the string. I do know that a deep hook maintained until release,has got my arrows flying like darts..maybee some of you more experienced archers can tell me why a deep hook resolved my problems..? Thanks a million to all of you for the help, Shane