I'm new to trad. My arrows with field tips have been flying good. I finally put on a Magnus 2 blade to see how it shot. The arrow appears to dip down kind of like a sinker ball from a major league pitcher. I was hoping it was just a nocking issue and lowered my nock a tad. It didn't help. Any suggestions?
Chew this is what I have learned in the last 3 months since I started.
Bare shaft tuning is very valuable to me. Once I got it right my broadheads and field points flew the same. I shoot 125 gr magnus two blades.
Brace height must be correct but knocking point changes after adjustments.
String stretches more than you would exspect until it settles in. Check often.
Arrows selected from Eastons's charts were overspined for my 50 pound bow.
All of these things can be found and explained with a search either here or on powwow.
I'll help the best I can but I'm a rookie too.
When asking for help describe bow, arrows and tips so folks can help with a suggestion.
For the qustion above is windage ok? If so I would check brace height. If the string did stretch that would move your knocking point up and cause the arrows to shoot lower.
I'm sure there are questions that I have missed to help you out but rest assure there will be others with more knowledge than I to help.
For quicker results you might cut what you wrote and paste over on powwow. I think it will get a lot more views.
Broadheads frequently reveal spine problems you weren't aware of while shooting field points. Bare-shaft tuning avoids this.
This dipping tells us what about spine? stiff or weak?
Lower your nock point.
SL
Thanks guys. I guess I need to strip some of pretty feathers off and bareshaft tune. I didn't do it at first because my release was so inconsistent and I didn't realize the importance of it.
Forgot to add.....shooting a Hoyt Dorado 40 lbs at 28". CE Heritage 150's with 125 gr. tip and 50 gr. inserts.
Whump Sez: Before you start scraping and tearing up fletching be sure to check for a perfectly aligned broadhead. If it is on the shaft the least bit out of alignment you will experience the same problems you stated above. You could also twist your string a few turns and raise your brace height and see if the situation improves---this will show that you have a spine that is on the edge of being too stiff if the situation improves. If they are diving like bats even more so then you are on the weak side. I hope this helps you out and saves you a few feathers. :thumbsup: Hunt Safe.
After you check what Wump says about broadehead alignement(They should spin like a top with no wobbling) Please tell us about the flethcing-type and placement on the shaft.If the shafts flew good bareshafted Im guessing the spine is good. But when theres a broadhead that wants to catch some air and steer its up to the fletching to do its job.
Chew, "I was hoping it was just a nocking issue and lowered my nock a tad. It didn't help. Any suggestions?"
Several things can cause that biggest being the nock point, tight nocks, arrow spine, arrow nock diameter, release/bow hand to cover a few. Nock point too high will cause it but nock point too low will also. The fact you lowered it and saw no chage indicates the latter is at least part of the problem. A big rule in tuning is only change 1 thong at a time and if you make a change and don't see a change, you went the wrong way. Make changes in nock point small, 1/32" can make a big difference and 1/16" can be the difference between to far one way to too far the other..
The suggestion of weighing and spineing the shafts is a good one, if either is the slightest bit off from the old ones, any effort to make them shoot the same may be futile.....O.L.
If your nock is off like OL has said the broadhead will magnify it. If your broadhead is horizontal when shot, it will make the arrow dip, if your nock is too high (or way too low). Try turning your BH vertical. Of course if your having spine problems, this could magnify them. Goodluck and God Bless! Dave