I've been hearing everyone talking about they want their arrows underspined a little and is this following the leader or serious business? What is the actual difference between a little underspined or a little overspined? The reason I ask is I cut my shafts and shooting 145 grain heads they fly pretty good but with 125 a little overspined. I would use they 145 grain heads but I can't find any 9/32 for these darn Axis shafts! I wish I never bought them because 9/32 supplies are so limited!
By no means am I an expert. I just want my arrows to fly straight, and hit what I am looking at.
I have found that my best shooting and arrow flight has always been with arrows that are overspined. I have two sets of limbs for my favorite recurve (63 & 68 @ 28) and with wood arrows I needed to spine them at 85 plus. Not so much with aluminum, and even less with carbon, but always a heavy on spine. (current arrows are Vapor Carbonwood 5000 65-80lbs, cut as short as possible with broadheads under 145 grains, and weighted inside the shaft with tubing.)
As you said, most talk of being underspined to get the best results. It makes me wonder if maybe I`m doing something wrong.
There are a couple of different ways you can go.With the skinny axis/mfx shafts you can get broadhead adapters.They are a tapered cone washer that fits on the end of the shaft that fits 11/32 points or broadheads.Or you can add a foot to the end of your shaft,which is a 1" to 1 & 1/2" of an aluminum arrow epoxied on the end of your shaft.That will make the end of your shaft 5/16" which allows you to use 5/16" points which are available in so mant more weight sizes then a 9/32 point.That also makes the skinny shafts almost bulletproof.For example I've done Beman MFX Classic 500 takes a 2020 shaft for a good fit,Beman Black Max 300 takes a 2016 and Axis Obsession 300 camo takes a 2013.With 9/32 125 gr. is the largest I have seen.Broadhead adapters work great but they are around $13 to $14 a dozen and there is a few different sizes for different size shafts.Adding a short piece of an aluminum shaft cost less and makes a smooth transition to a 5/16 point.I love the skinny shafts,they are pretty tough and real tuff when footed.
I like my arrows to be a little on the weak side because they are more forgiving to my style. I shoot instinctive and if my shot is from an off position, or a quick shot on a rabbit or dove, I am much more likely to draw a little shorter than I ever would be to draw longer.
molson, doves ? now thats a shot!ive been shooting at blackbirds shooting not hitting.i also go a little on the weak side
Most say I am way over spined. How ever, my arrow shoot great in my opinion. So I use them. I can use a heavy head and it softens the spine a bit. There is recomended spine, which is a great place to start. Work from there and see what ya end up with.
Kieth, shooting not hitting would be a good description of it! :) When they're in season, I always find myself looking for a shot opportunity. They are quite the tasty treat!
When people refer to wanting them to spine a tad weak they are reffering to a bareshaft. Once you fletch th earrow up it stiffens it a bit, thus you end up with an arrow that is spined perfect, not over or under. I myself like a slightly weak bareshaft for just that reason. Shawn
What Shawn said.
Agree with Shawn,
Footing the Axis/MFX not only lets you use larger point but strengthens the weakest link, the small section from the arrow end to the beginning of the brass recessed insert. I use 2018 for 340's, like said makes them very tough.