So I keep hearing people talk about arrow footing...but I don't totally understand how it's done and what purpose it serves...I shoot aluminum and carbon arrows and I'm not sure if it's something that I should be doing....so School me fellas!
Thanks,
Keith
On aluminum and carbons some people glue about a 1" section of aluminum arrow over the shaft at the insert to keep the shaft from splitting when hitting something hard. There are charts to give you inside and outside diameters of shafts. If you don't shoot at anything real hard you don't need to do this.
Not a necessity. Some do it for arrow weight but most do it to strengthen the insert end of the arrow. Can help if you do a lot of stump shooting
The aluminum arrows I'm currently using are internally footed. I glued in a 3" piece of smaller diameter aluminum directly behind the insert.
Several benefits: strengthens the front of the shaft, stiffens a weak shaft, added overall weight, and higher FOC.
I foot almost all my carbons. If I miss there's a 90% chance I will hit rocks. I have also started to make nock collars for the same reasons. Never bothered with aluminum although I have "spliced" some shafts together. Aluminums bend more than they break so learning to straighten them is a plus.
Adding a protective "foot" to an arrow also helps the FOC. It is an extra step for aluminum or carbons that will pay off in arrows not broken, and it is an intricate and artistic element as done to wooden shafts with contrasting hardwood footing. There are tools which make this a hair easier, and I think there is also a DVD about it, possible from the Renfrews?
I appreciate all the info! I think I have a handle on it now...It's basically a protective sleeve to keep the front of your arrow from blowing apart when you hit a hard object..
I like the idea for stump shooting, but don't find it necessary for hunting as most of the places I hunt are not all that rocky. Just out of curiosity, what aluminum shaft makes a good footing for 11/32 wood shafts?
Sam, for 11/32 use2413, for 23/64 use 2513. Might have to ask around some "older" wheel bow guys for aluminums that size. These were line cutters until the 2613 came out.
Here's a great video by Yononindo who i think is a member here...?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaiCiL2Jg04
That video says it all. After that "target", anything will be like shooting into a pillow!
This is timely for me as I just last night was looking at some Easton Gamegetter 2016's and trying out the fit of some aluminium pieces I had cut for footings but didn't follow through. Next step - footings on.
I can't see adding a footing as having an impact on FOC...it's only 15 - 30 grains depending on the size you use.
However, I foot all of my carbons as it adds incredible impact strength. In my experience, a carbon either splits at the tip end, or nock end when hitting something solid. With a footing on the front, and a smaller footing at the nock (I often do both) this no longer happens.
you can add a hardwood dowel inside, it would require testing; weighted inserts are also available. They screw into inserts for the purpose of increasing FOC. I like the internal weight, so it is not a problem extracting from targets. You can use a pistol cleaning rod and brush to prep the inside when using heat melt glue.
After having trouble finding alloy shafts to fit my carbons, I bought some brass tube that does the same job but is twice as sexy.
I do as Cook does. Nevada is one large rock and i have broken as many as 5 cedars on just one rabbit hunt. Footed carbons are tough and it takes some hit to break them