Original Damon Howatt 50# @28---- + 1/16 center
28" 1916 arrows with 155 grain point. I draw 27"
Tuned good at 15yds (basically same at 20,with SRF aid)Stu's chart recommends 153 grain for this arrow (XX75). Gonna have to drop the nock point 1/16 or so but fletched arrows hitting right together and bare shaft little low and right (I'm a right hander). To get this I had to drop brace to 6 3/4" which has made bow somewhat louder than at 7 1/2" but I cant complain about arrow flight!
I have no silencers on the string at present. Would a set of spider legs quieten it down some?? I'm trying to tune arrows because I have a dozen perfect 1916's with little use.
Guess I'm coming full circle,,started with recurve,,went compound,,then X bow which I still use,but the howatt keeps calling me back! Compound was nice but I'm not a mechanic. X bow is good but of course it's the recurve style, I just got tired of all the gadgets.
Any suggestions please----THANKS----Greg
I'd tune with the silencers on personally but maybe once you get the silencers on, slide them around for sound and then check your tune. The farther out they are from center, the less they should effect tune. But they most likely will effect it since you are going off of a bare string initially. Adjust brace as necessary
What is the AMO length of your bow?
At 6-3/4" that would work out to a 54" AMO (I use the 1/8th of AMO rule-of-thumb for brace height to start at).
Puff silencers and rubber legs quiet down a bow dramatically. You may have to play with the location. Ideally they are placed at the anti-nodes of string oscillation to minimize that vibration. Like a fat finger resting on a guitar string where it shouldn't be. No ideas how you calculate those so playing with location to see what helps most is my method.
You're also likely getting string slap on the limbs at that brace height. Add some Bow Hush or soft Velcro pads to silence that.
Which Damon Howatt? The Hunter? That is a low brace height in any case. Does it slap you?
As tzolk said put the silencers on it. I like beaver balls but there are lots of other good choices.
I imagine somewhere between a 52" HiSpeed and a 66" Ventura. ;-)
What type of string are you shooting? I have two Martin/Howatt Hunter's,a 2008 and a 1998 and they are two of my quietest recurves I have.Brace height spec range is 7-8",I shoot mine at 7&3/8" with a pair of homemade puffs.I shoot a padded loop 10 strand Ultra Cam on one and a padded loop 18 strand BCY-X on the other.My arrows are right around 9.5 GPP,both are 50#@28 bows.
In all honesty I think you've gone about this a bit backwards.
I feel the correct approach is to find the brace height the bow likes...as in most quiet, least vibrations etc.
Then find the arrow/point combo that tunes to the bow.
In short, tune the arrow to the bow...not the other way around.
QuoteOriginally posted by Zradix:
In all honesty I think you've gone about this a bit backwards.
I feel the correct approach is to find the brace height the bow likes...as in most quiet, least vibrations etc.
Then find the arrow/point combo that tunes to the bow.
In short, tune the arrow to the bow...not the other way around.
This is how I do it too!
Thanks fellas-----the 62" orginal hunter does great at 7.25---i'll work on the arrows from there
don't play around with a noisy bow..
http://www.bowhush.com/
When I shot a recurve I put some limb savers on it and man what a difference that made a good string " not saying yours is bad " but 1 from 10 ring with the recurve wraps would be the ticket
Put some wool string silencers at the quarters to start, that should stiffen the dynamic spine a touch and allow you to raise brace to tune, Should quiet her down well. Also the bow hush for recurves is very nice. Usually I will put a 2" piece of adhesive felt on the limb belly right were the string contacts to aid in reducing string slap.
I just replaced an endless loop B-50 string on a 58"AMO 51# recurve bow and the difference it makes naked and then with two puffs was astonishing. I could see from the wax where the naked string was striking the limbs at the tips.
So I threaded 3" puffs in the string and gradually upped the brace height and played with bare shafts to get the best flight at 10 yards and then backed up to 20 yards with fletched arrows and set the nock point.
Back to nice and quiet.
I've shot it a couple hundred times so now I'll trim the puffs down a little. They do add some drag.
I don't do "quarters". I place them where the palm of my hand across the four knuckles just contacts the string and the limb when I place it horizontal along the limb. Seems to give me good results and is at least repeatable. so they end up maybe 1/6 of the string length in from the grooves. I try not to make it even fractions because that is more likely a node than an anti-node (the high spots in a vibrating string). But because of the tiller they are not an equal distance away (and asymmetrical may help to deaden the twang). WAaAAY too much thought, now.