Hi,
I have a new blacktail elite recurve (61 pounds at 30 inches),that needs some new carbon arrows !
My draw is 30 inches and I cut my arrow at 31/31,5 inches.
I shoot at least a 175/200gr head and 50/75 gr insert. For feahters I will shoot 3 X 4 inches parabolics.
Do I need 340 or 300 spine shafts ?
Would like to hear your suggestions!
Thanks
Contact Alaska Bowhunting Supply. I love their arrows.
http://www.grizzlystik.com/Momentum-TDT-Shafts-C99.aspx
I shoot 340s with almost the same set up (190 treesharks with a 50 grain insert). They fly very well.
Josh
QuoteOriginally posted by Josh H:
I shoot 340s with almost the same set up (190 treesharks with a 50 grain insert). They fly very well.
Josh
What is your draw lenght ?
my opinion here:
I would NEVER cut my arrows without there being a reason(too weak).
I would bet you can get the .340's to work. Some simple fixes would be buy the longest .340 you can(i'm pretty sure that would be the black eagle vintage arrows coming in at 34"), so you'll have the most tunability and slowly trim the arrow as needed.
I would also bet that with a side plate adjustment(thicker or thinner), you will be able to get the 31" arrows to work, if you choose to cut them first.
When you're tuning, just remember you're worried about where the arrow is hitting in relation to center. If its to the right(RH shooter), build out the strike plate some(very small amounts at a time(1/64 or so at a time). If it's to the left, you can try a thinner or softer strike plate.
I have quit bareshafting as my primary method of tuning and started tuning the bow to the arrow. If it works out, it is great! If not, i go back to bareshafting.
Sorry for the long response, I hope it was helpful.
God Bless,
Daniel
QuoteOriginally posted by DanielB89:
my opinion here:
I would NEVER cut my arrows without there being a reason(too weak).
I would bet you can get the .340's to work. Some simple fixes would be buy the longest .340 you can(i'm pretty sure that would be the black eagle vintage arrows coming in at 34"), so you'll have the most tunability and slowly trim the arrow as needed.
I would also bet that with a side plate adjustment(thicker or thinner), you will be able to get the 31" arrows to work, if you choose to cut them first.
When you're tuning, just remember you're worried about where the arrow is hitting in relation to center. If its to the right(RH shooter), build out the strike plate some(very small amounts at a time(1/64 or so at a time). If it's to the left, you can try a thinner or softer strike plate.
I have quit bareshafting as my primary method of tuning and started tuning the bow to the arrow. If it works out, it is great! If not, i go back to bareshafting.
Sorry for the long response, I hope it was helpful.
God Bless,
Daniel
thanks for this tips :) ;) :archer:
You might be surprised how a 400 would fly from that combo. I've got a 60# long bow that shoots full length 400s with 100 gr inserts and 175 gr points nicely. If only I knew how to shoot it.