So I have a few options, the design of the bow is already going to be quick so speed aside I am looking for opinions on what the smoothest drawing might be.
Choices that I am interested in are...
Yew
Red Elm
Bamboo
Action Boo
Maple
Black cherry
They all cost the same
Any input is appreciated :)
My first choice would be --premium-- bamboo, which might be kind of hard to evaluate on your own. You just have to have confidence in the bowyer.
Second would be action boo, which I understand is usually problem free.
Third would be maple, which has been a successful lamination wood for generations.
My longbow with yew laminations is the smoothest drawing bow I've ever shot. Bamboo is very good too.
I bet 90+% if blind folded would not be able to tell the difference drawing any of those woods in the limbs.
It's all about the bowyer and how the bow/limbs are made/tillered.
My best bow, most pleasant to shoot, and still a performer, is yew cored. No lams needed. I also have several top end bows with boo. They are shooters for sure. My go to bow is my yew cored bow. Additionally I have the same bow, same specs, in osage. Never again.
Sorry. Duplicate :banghead:
My smoothest bows are my Mohawks which have all Bamboo limbs.
Agree with The Whittler
Bel007, What do you mean by "Yew Cored. No Lams needed"?
I have been using bamboo for the last few years. I recently pressed a new one with maple core and it just feels smooth to me. Probably just me .....lol
"smooth" is more afunction of design, IMO.
Thanks guys I appreciate it.
Not to discredit anyone if Chuck agrees it won't matter all to much I trust him. That man can build a bow!
Don't rule out foam core...very smooth and consistent draw because it's a consistent material
Don't have the option for foam or carbon, glass and wood only.
It's hard to beat maple. Look at how many bows from the mid-to-late 1950's, 1960's with maple limbs, that are being shot regularly.
I vote for action bamboo cores. I had a pair of limbs made for my bear take down and those limbs out perform a set of carbon limbs I have @ the same weight and length.
Two of the smoothest bows I ever owned were Brackenbury Quests. One had vertically laminated wenge cores and the other vertically laminated walnut cores. All of my Schafers are actionwood cores and are smooth as silk.
I've found elm (red elm as well as American elm) is the best in performance and durability, followed closely by walnut. On one of the things about bamboo is the limbs have to be thicker than limbs with wood cores. It still makes for good limbs if you don't mind the extra thickness, most people don't.
The other ones you mentioned are pretty much equal.
I'd follow Mikes advise...
I was wondering when someone was going to suggest red elm!
I really like bamboo. I also like Osage.
I like most of the woods listed. Some I like better for short bows, some I like better for longer bows. I do think its more about design and build.
Danny, Its funny you mention the laminated hardwoods. I just carried a literal ton of wood into the shop, and I am trying to decide how I am going to use some of it. A vertical lamination panel was talked about. We'll see
Red Elm. Had a Dan Quillian Canebrake that has a reputation of being fast and smooth. Search/Google it and those characteristics will be prevalent. Sure, it was the result of his design but he could have used any wood and chose Red Elm to complement the design.
(https://i.imgur.com/UKafqJ8.jpg?4)
I have had two of the same identical bows. One was made with maple and the other with a bamboo core. The only difference, I thought the maple was quieter.
One of the fastest bows that I ever owned was a Dan Quillian Canebrake.
I'm in the 90+% mentioned by The Whittler!
So much of it is dependent on bow design and how the cores are tapered.
I currently have bows with bamboo and red elm. All shoot sensationally and are from top level bowyers. My red elm core recurve is a screamer and very sweet to shoot.
I've always loved elm and walnut cores, they seem to be a great alternative to boo. Can't go wrong with yew either.
There is so much variation in cell structure within the same species of wood it's almost impossible to give a definitive answer on this.I personally love Yew but have processed multiple sets of core lamination's in the same thickness from different boards and they will all weigh very different.
Having said that,on average raw bamboo(not actionboo) and yew seem to consistently weigh less than any other woods I've used,less mass equals a faster limb.
I doubt the difference in core woods will translate to more than a few ft/sec between them all with limb design being more of an influence on speed.
Foam gives you the most consistent results in my experience.
I've been using quite a bit of quarter sawn walnut for cores lately and really like it. Looks good too.
Red elm
I'm a curious sort. I'm in the group that feels design trumps material.
What I am interested in is: material vs material at equal design.
I like hard facts to make decisions.
Are there any bowyer's or individuals who have chronographed SIMILAR design bows (same design, draw weight, same amo, same arrow etc), HAVING DIFFERENT LIMB MATERIAL ( ie bamboo vs elm vs maple vs "limb material of choice")?
Real chrono data requested. Anyone?
I have been following this thread out of curiosity to see what woods would be suggested. I have made only a handful of bows myself and find this subject very intriguing.
I don't know how much corewood affects the performance of a fiberglass bow, nor do I think that anyone else has a 100% guarantee on any specific differences in different woods.
And I want to start off by saying that I'm not arguing anybody's suggested wood type. Buuuuuut, if you have a fast design and want to smooth it out, that could be a completely different core from if you want to maintain performance but still be as smooth as possible.
Basically, wood that is heavy and flexible will be smooth. Wood that is light and stiff will yield higher speeds.
Wood that is light, stiff and bends smooth as silk...... that's the bowyers dream. And I believe it is called Mongolian Tulip Wood.
I think you are correct.. :)
I can't help with the chrony numbers, I don't have one. The high quality ones are pretty costly. I don't see the point in buying a piece of equipment for $300+ so it'll tell me that one bow is shooting 5 fps faster or slower than another. But having made as many bows as I have, and having shot them all, I've got a good idea of what performs great, what performs good, and what I wouldn't recommend using. It's very important to me that the bow I send my customer, performs as best as it can, so I tried several woods and bamboos and have learned what I can rely on. I've shot fast bows and slow bows, and after shooting several thousand (mine and other's) I can tell what is and isn't.
A simple test I do with laminations when I make them, is I'll bend it around into a full circle, them let it go and if it springs back to the straight shape it was before I did it, then it's a good material. I can do that because I usually use full length laminations. The woods that are slow to string back, can have too much moisture, or just not have the compression/tension strength I need. Those ones will still work but the bow will perform sluggishly.
Chronograph numbers are great and all, and I'm not saying you're "that guy" Riser, but in the end, guys would still be "taking my word for it" I've seen others do it, and the data still wasn't "good enough". (another reason I don't spend the $$ on a chrony)
Mike I see you a chrony will tell you the speed of a already made limb with your metod you'll know before the wood becomes a limb
I've never, (other than in my sub conscious) applied that logic to it, but it makes sense.
I would lean toward agreeing with Mike. But i will go that one step further.
After building and shooting several 1000 bows, with all manner of materials, in any given design, any of the good materials will shoot very close.
Bad materials will shoot poorer.
I still think that design and build execution are most vital.
Some designs like certain materials better than others, some are not fussy at all.
Feel, sound, speed, looks....Takes a skill to bring it all together and there is generally a fine line for the trade offs.
Thats why I like bow making and talking bow making.
I think Bamboo is the smoothest wood,but Yew is right p there
Most boaters tend to agree on this topic. From my limited experience, I also think design is paramount. For example I currently own a fantastic shooting bow in all categories that sports one thick lam of HICKORY.
Most bowyers tend to agree on this topic. From my limited experience, I also think design is paramount. For example I currently own a fantastic shooting bow in all categories that sports one thick lam of HICKORY.
I've found the best core wood to be what the bowyer making it recommends.
I can't argue about hickory, I use it sometimes, especialy if it's got some tight growth rings. Flat grain even looks good with clear glass too. (no veneers required)
QuoteOriginally posted by The Whittler:
I bet 90+% if blind folded would not be able to tell the difference drawing any of those woods in the limbs.
It's all about the bowyer and how the bow/limbs are made/tillered.
Truer words have not been spoken
The fact still remain; some species of wood are better than other species of wood when it comes to making good bow limbs.
How much better is the question.
QuoteOriginally posted by snag:
How much better is the question.
Better at what?
Speed? Smoothness? Quietness?
The topic is open to debate as much as "which is the best broadhead?". Just about any wood will make a bow. Especially when sandwiched between fiberglass. Some woods may excel in certain categories or in certain bow designs.
Finding the perfect wood for the perfect design is like searching for the holy grail. Kinda hope I never find the grail. I'm havin too much fun on the search.