Which seems to be better, the bow bolt or sleeve.
Personally, I love the bow bolt. Very tight, secure connection. Adds a little bit of mass to the riser section. Comes apart easily and quickly.
That being said, I think each of the systems work very well and are dependent on the craftsmanship of the bowyer to perform flawlessly!
:archer2:
Never owned the bow bolt, but the sleeve just seems sturdier in my opinion.. Of course, you're stuck with a straight grip.
Post', if you search Pow Wow you'll see this question has at least a dozen threads. That being said, currently, it's apples and oranges, I've owned enough of either system to share my opinion that one isn't necessarily better than the other, they're just two solutions to the same problem. The bottom line is there needs to be a competent bowyer building either system. Personally, I gravitate toward the Bow-bolt for the bit of extra mass it adds to what would be an otherwise lightweight one-piece bow...the sleeve system (unless it's the old school brass/steel one) adds nothing to the bow mass, so on bows like that I prefer as heavy of a riser wood as I can get, otherwise you still have a featherlight 1pc bow. My last sleeve bow had a Leadwood riser from Big Jim and it was brilliant with just the perfect heft. Both systems are quick to break down for storage. The Bow-bolt has threads obviously that need to be protected from abuse, but the sleeve has its own niggles...like occasionally if not properly maintained it may be difficult to pull apart. I have also owned one sleeve bow from a well known bowyer where the fit loosened up after about a year or so and you could feel a very small amount of flex on the draw/release because of it. This was a total oddball and honestly the bow still shot just fine, unfortunately I was not the original owner so I didn't pursue a warranty claim or anything like that. I only mention this because some folks criticize the Bow-bolt because back when it first came out some folks were retrofitting wood riser bows with poor results and so they cheerlead for the sleeve claiming it's faultless. The Bow-bolt if built properly from the ground up with a riser incorporating Micarta/G10 is a great system. Another difference is the sleeve makes the 2pc nature of the bow invisible whereas the Bow-bolt you'll still have a thin seam in the middle of the riser. On any Bow-bolt bow I've owned this is never an issue holding the grip, you can't feel it. In the end, pick the bow from the bowyer you want. I wouldn't choose a bow based simply on what system it used.
We use both the bow bolt and a hinge most the longbows are sold with the hinge because of weight. Most guys shooting a recurve don't seem to mind the weight and go with the BowBolt. Out of your two choices I prefer the bowbolt
And then there is the "Locit Socket" that Black Widow uses. I think Abe Penner does as well. It has a clean look as well.
I'm a huge fan of the locket-socket. My Caribow has it and it is flawless for fit and simple to take down
QuoteOriginally posted by M60gunner:
And then there is the "Locit Socket" that Black Widow uses. I think Abe Penner does as well. It has a clean look as well.
When the OP mentioned sleeve I think he was referring to this system. Big Jim, Widow, Caribow, and some others use it.
Bow-Bolt for me, no movement and I have never had an issue. Built into the bow with proper materials it would be tough to beat. I'm getting ready to order a Javaman Falcon in the next few weeks and the Bow-Bolt will be part of it.
I have also owned bows with the Loc-It-Socket and that system performed flawlessly as well.
I would not use a bow bolt. Not suitable for high poundage and slim grips. The locket socket is done with a wrap made from epoxy. Epoxies may become brittle with age.
My preferred system is locket socket style into the small steel sleeve like Keith Chastain from Wapiti Bows builds them. One can mold whatever grip he likes under a small sleeve and cover it up with a leather etc. I cover all my grips with tennis racket overgrip. Never slipping hands in 90% humidity heat on a 3D course....
The sleeve adds more weight (but you're pretty much limited to the shape of the sleeve being the shape of your grip) I've used both the bolt and and the sleeve, another thing I like about the sleeve is you're not limited to using micarta or phenolic, you can use any suitable riser wood, or micarta or phenolic. The bow bolt doesn't do well in wood risers, especially slim ones like I make.
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f301/jillanmike/sleevebolt_zpsjxc2ipcr.jpg) (http://s50.photobucket.com/user/jillanmike/media/sleevebolt_zpsjxc2ipcr.jpg.html)
The only 2 piece take down that I have owned that has failed is a shrew bow bolt I bought used on here. I have sleeve bows that are over 20 years old and are still tight.
MAP
I have to agree on the bevel lock "sleeve" used by a lot of bowyers very solid and ads next to nothing in weight. Since it's basically a fiberglass wrap. And can be used in heavy draw weights and most grip configurations
I have to agree on the bevel lock "sleeve" used by a lot of bowyers very solid and ads next to nothing in weight. .