I cut a piece of cocobolo into scales for a knife handle. It looks great. With the oily nature of the wood, I was wondering what type of finish could be used, if any? I may just sand it down with 400 grit and go with it without any finish.
You might look into Tru-oil. Apply in multiple thin coats, use fine steel wool in between coats.
clean surface of wood with denatured alcohol, acetone or lacquer thinner first. you can also believe it or not use standard superglue as a finish in multiple thin coats. apply with thin gloves or finger inside a ziplock, smooth it on, let dry, sand 400-600 grit, reapply, do it multiple coats.
I use a mixture of boiled linseed and gum turps, about 1/3 turps. I find it is does a great job, though the wood will darken over time as it takes the oils from your hands.
I used some Minwax on cocobolo, it did not dry, it turned to gum. I next tried a high grade gloss lacquer. That dried very fast, I used three coats. This was on a longbow riser. I have also used it on a $7500 guitar that had a lacquer finish on the cocobolo back and sides and a French polish on the lid. I have long since forgotten the company name. I just know that it was three times the price as Valspar.
I have it first hand from a well known bowyer on here that tru oil or related finishes are very difficult to get a good lasting finish on any of the rosewood family. If it were me I just use Thunderbird epoxy and be done with it
Automotive clearcoat in rattlecan. No treating with anything. Just sand and spray. Some guys are using wheel finish on bows, search the bowyers bench for wheel finish.
Here ya go....
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=014035#000000
On oily woods I spray several coats of Zinsser Shellac to seal the oily wood and fill the grain then several coats of Minwax polly over that. The shellac dries really fast and is easy to sand. Shellac sticks to anything and anything sticks to shellac.
Thanks guys. Some great ideas, I just need to decide which way to go.
There are a few you can use. Like said before most you have to use alcohol to wipe it down first then apply the finish. If you are looking for a strong shiny finish get some medium CA glue and put 10 coats on it then sand it then use a thin CA glue with the same number if coats sand in between every few coats. Then end coat sand out to 2000 or more. Look into micro mesh works great. Wet sand if possible. Looks like glass when you are done
^---Big means cyanoacrylate glue aka super glue like I was talking about. It works.
If you use CA, have great ventilation. Stuff burns eyes and even your lips. I use the auto clearcoat so I don't have to precoat with something else, and it's clear.
Venal at ion is a must or a bad headache is in store along with the burning eyes!!
I've used Deft with great success. I used acetone to clean off the oil (it's oily!) And it worked like a charm.
An easy and lasting finish for oily woods like coco-bolo is to mix epoxy from the tubes (the kind you get at Walmart) with acetone and wipe on with your fingers while wearing latex gloves, do not use nitrile or vinyl gloves the acetone will eat them up. I know some fellows that used this as a finish on their self bows and it made a great finish, was flexible and tough and you don't have to dish out extra money for Thunderbird . Any oil based finish like a poly will not dry on woods like coco or bocote.
I use CA glue on the knives and bows I built with oily woods. This is not to say that this is the only and proper way to use super glue as a finish. It's just the way I do it. Super glue is used on tropical woods that have oils that prevent most finishes from drying, curing or hardening. It can be used on any wood.
There are those that use a super glue finish on pool cues, pens, bowls, chess pieces and a host of other projects.
I went out and bought a 4 pack of .07 Oz. tubes for $1.99. I bought the regular and not the gel but have heard of people using the gel with good results.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WBH_stuff/glue991.jpg)
Always read the warnings and understand the risks. I have chosen to ignore rule number four. I found rule number five a bit odd. I do want good results but I fail to see why it matters how me and the missus spend our free time or if we are good at it.
This glue is stinky but larger containers that are more expensive can be bought in a low odor version.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WBH_stuff/glue2.jpg)
I used a scrap piece of Bubinga right off the saw. I did not sand it at all. I did this to show that super glue is gap filling and fills in the pores of the wood. I poured a small drop on the wood.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WBH_stuff/glue9.jpg)
And spread it around with this brush. This is one of a set of ten brushes that I got from my parent on my birthday. I've had them for 53 years.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WBH_stuff/glue8.jpg)
I just spread it out until the piece is covered and never stop moving. It stays liquid for a short while.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WBH_stuff/glue91.jpg)
And then hardens with a little less gloss. You can see the rough saw lines on the wood. but after I build up of a few coats, it will smooth over the bumps. *** DO NOT blow on it to dry it faster.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WBH_stuff/glue92.jpg)
After two coats, I use 400 grit sandpaper to smooth out the brush marks and then wipe it with a clean cloth to remove the white dust.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WBH_stuff/glue94.jpg)
On the back side of the piece I applied the same number of coats except on the last one, I blew on it to dry it faster and you can see the results. The water vapor in your breath makes the glue cloudy or foggy and you cant un-do the damage. You will have to sand it all off and start over. The same goes for touching the wet glue with your finger. The moisture in your skin will also turn the glue white.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WBH_stuff/glue95.jpg)
After a few coats, you also get a build up on the tip of your brush.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WBH_stuff/glue97.jpg)
Nail polish remover (Acetone) will remove the hardened glue. I wet a paper towel and set my finger in it.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WBH_stuff/glue98.jpg)
I will also use some of that same 400 grit to clean of any glue left behind. Now the brush is clean.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WBH_stuff/glue99.jpg)
Once hardened, I use 400 grit and 0000 steel wool to smooth the finish.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WBH_stuff/glue992.jpg)
Super glue leaves a hard, crystal clear and water proof protective coating of acrylic plastic on the wood.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WBH_stuff/glue993.jpg)
It can be buffed to a high sheen.
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn31/WBH_stuff/glue994.jpg)
Give it a try the next time you are working on a small wood project or if making fishing jig heads or turkey calls. Work outside or in an area with good ventilation.
I second, or third the super glue. I use that on cocobolo also when I'm working with it.
I wear gloves though. Several, I usually do a total of 6-8, thin coats. I sand once about half way in between coats 3 and 4.
-Jeremy
When I do Maccassar ebony, cocabola or bocate it gets four coats of super glue , a light sand and one more coat and then whatever finish I wish to use. It has to be completely sealed, Any oil at all will make just about any finish except auto clear coat or wheel clearcoat gummy.
God bless, Steve
QuoteOriginally posted by Sixby:
When I do Maccassar ebony, cocabola or bocate it gets four coats of super glue , a light sand and one more coat and then whatever finish I wish to use. It has to be completely sealed, Any oil at all will make just about any finish except auto clear coat or wheel clearcoat gummy.
God bless, Steve
:thumbsup:
QuoteOriginally posted by Tim Finley:
An easy and lasting finish for oily woods like coco-bolo is to mix epoxy from the tubes (the kind you get at Walmart) with acetone and wipe on with your fingers while wearing latex gloves, do not use nitrile or vinyl gloves the acetone will eat them up. I know some fellows that used this as a finish on their self bows and it made a great finish, was flexible and tough and you don't have to dish out extra money for Thunderbird . Any oil based finish like a poly will not dry on woods like coco or bocote.
I agree with Tim Soper Glue fumes are horrible this is the best alternative for a Knife or two short of Buying Thunderbird or Buff hide
The one thing I would say about CA finishes, even when done correctly, is that if it cracks (it can do that, especially around edges/corners) or otherwise gets damaged and moisture gets under it, it can turn cloudy and get gummy as it starts to peel up. It can be repaired but sometimes it aint that easy.
Having said that, nothing magnifies the grain and looks as good as CA. It just not as bomb proof as some think.
Mark
Thanks to all. I went with VHT wheel paint and am pleased with the results.