Hi All!
I've been looking into carbon arrows over the past few days and while I know I really don't NEED them, I was thinking about trying them to compare to my basic Easton Jazz Aluminums..
I'm shooting a Fleetwood Monarch @ 30 lbs currently with 1916 Jazz arrows... I am looking at Gold Tip Traditionals probably in a 400 spine.
Also critical, I have only been shooting for upwards of a month and a half..
Thanks in advance.
Kevin
Nope. 1916 would need a .600 to compare. And if you are happy with 1916s, no reason to look at carbon.
Fair point. Maybe I can find a buddy at the range who has some just for comparison's sake. Probably nothing really wrong with testing them out right?
I don't think you will really see a difference other than carbons don't bend as easy as aluminum in just 1 month and a half of shooting. But give it a try with .600, why not? It was a time when I had both types in my quiver.
I've heard a few different things but it all sounds like its just a preference thing.
Maybe I will give it a shot.
Thanks guys
At 30#, you will likely need a .700 spine! .400's will be waaaaaaaaaay too stiff!
I say "Yea", but only if you get a shaft that will tune for you. It does boil down to personal preference, but you won't know which you prefer until you have tried both.
Bisch
I am planning on moving up to either a 35 or 40 lb limb soon. (Not sure what is too much of a jump!) So to one degree, I don't want to get arrows and then have to get new spines...
You wouldn't need a 400 until you make it up to like 53-55lbs. Like stated before a 600 should fit just right now, and at 40-45lbs.
Main thing at this point is just to shoot!
QuoteOriginally posted by Bisch:
At 30#, you will likely need a .700 spine! .400's will be waaaaaaaaaay too stiff!
I say "Yea", but only if you get a shaft that will tune for you. It does boil down to personal preference, but you won't know which you prefer until you have tried both.
Bisch
This.....
I just got some 700 entrada ultralights for a 40# bow I have. I think this might be the ticket for you as well
Jazz is not made of the tougher alloys so you would eventually bend some in a couple of weeks. Carbon will not bend but will break if you hit something hard like a nail in a target stand. That said, improve your form first before investing in some carbons because you will not be able to tune them properly at this stage in your learning.
Thanks for all the help everyone.
Glad its not a judgy forum haha.
Please keep in mind to flex a carbon arrow before you shoot it. Had one blow up on me at release, scary!
To be fair the arrow had earlier passed through my target and hit the ground hard
Thanks for the advice.
I heard that you should flex each arrow a few times to be safe.
Not planning on pulling shards out of me arm anytime soon.
What kind of shooting are you doing? I find that carbons are tougher in the woods and take abuse that would bend and dent or kink aluminums. However, I've also had the nock end split when I hit the steel bar in a 3D target leg. If you're shooting field archery, aluminums should last but as mentioned, the jazz arrows are a softer alloy. What is your draw length? This will play a big part in your arrow selection. For example I'm shooting a 45lb recurve with .400 spine carbons, but they're full length and my draw is 30.75".
I still get wrapped up in arrow cost once in a while, until I remember that going to one highpower rifle match costs me more than a dozen arrows!
I'm with Bisch....most likely a .700 spine. You might get .600 to work for you depending on draw length. I really like carbons myself...esp now that I've got an arrow saw and cutting for the perfect tune isn't an issue.
x2 what shag08 said...
Gold tip warriors come in 700 and i believe 800. You can get a total weight w tip in low 300s- that would be a good recipe for your 30# rig.
PS-- i paid $50.00 a doz for some 700s that included nocks and inserts. They tune well out of my 43# non hs Whip.
Thanks! I will give em a check.
I have a buddy with a half doz 600 gold tip trads he's willing to let go for cheap.
QuoteOriginally posted by Holybeardman:
Thanks! I will give em a check.
I have a buddy with a half doz 600 gold tip trads he's willing to let go for cheap.
Good place to start but I still think they will be too stiff. Might want to call RMSG they have some of the carbon express 800s might be a good option too.
I don't see how you are getting away with 1916's from a 30# bow. I use them with 45-50# bows.
The main benefit to carbons in my opinion is their increased durability in the woods. Aluminum arrows are cheaper and easier to tune. Wood arrows are cool, but much more work to maintain.
In my opinion, I would shoot aluminum for now as they are inexpensive, the easiest to tune to the bow, and your likely to loose a few more than you break for a while. Those that you do break hitting target stands and stuff will likely break other types of arrows too.
Once your form is down and your not loosing so many arrows, try both carbons and wood arrows. Carbons will be more expensive and harder to tune but will likely be the most durable of your options. Woods are just plain fun and nostalgic; also because they are heavier they make less noise off the string.
QuoteOriginally posted by Red Beastmaster:
I don't see how you are getting away with 1916's from a 30# bow. I use them with 45-50# bows.
That was what the pro shop in the area here recommended to me. I was shooting 1716 when I was sharing a bow with my Fiancé (20 lb @ 62")
Its entirely possible they sold me the wrong arrows but they do seem to be quite knowledgeable. The gentleman who owns the store has been active in the area for over 50 years.
They do a lot of movie work too since they are the only archery shop in the region.
My .02 cents, I don't see the benefit of carbon, yes I know tougher, but for the price difference, to me mute point. Keep in mind, that I am a American Longbow shooter, and it loves my wood arrows. I have used Aluminum and other material as well. My biggest problem with carbon, is the cost and time of tuning and getting the arrow weight up. For that amount of work, I will stay with wood shaft's. Mainly because I know the work that goes into it, and exactly what the bow needs. Like many, I have experimented, think natural. But come back to why change what is working.
Thanks Todd!
The more opinions, the better. Its good to see all sides of the coin.
I just double checked... I am shooting 1916 alums right now on my 30 lb bow and my Fiance is shooting 1616 out of her 20 lb...
Based on the information I am seeing here, were we sold the wrong arrows by the local shop here?
Sorry... I'm still a newbie clearly and just trying to learn.
How far toward center your bow is cut will have a BIG impact on what spine it will need. The less center cut it is it will want weaker arrow. If cut past center a stiffet arrow should work. That being said id be very surprised if 1916s were right for a 30# bow. Shoot them for awhile as you build form and then see what a bareshaft tells you. My hunch though is 1716 or 700 spine...
So I went out and shot those Trad 600s with a 125 grain field point and i'm not sure if it was a placebo effect but I don't believe I've ever shot better...
We will see how things go today.
Just got a new set of limbs today. 40# nighthawks. going to see if there's a difference in my shooting.