While trying to get a longbow that's fairly new to me tuned I've been scratching my head to figure something out. I keep getting nock high tears.
I'm a lefty and if I'm understanding things correctly that reading is either a bad release or a poor string nock position.
Focusing on my release is about the best I can do. So I then moved the arrow up the string about as high as I can go without running out of serving room. The tears are less but still there.
Today I started all over (pulled off my Velcro rest and string nocks) and got an interesting reading. I think, and so does a fellow member here, my starting point on the string is too low. The arrow is sitting at about level, maybe 3/16ish.
So I thought I'd post a picture and ask for ya'lls opinions.
Thanks! :wavey:
(http://i.imgur.com/telL6Eo.jpg)
I'm shooting a 56# @ 27" Elburg longbow. I'm pulling to 28". My arrows are 55-60 cedars with cut to 29" with 160 grains up front. No right or left tears, just high.
-Jeremy :coffee:
Remember, when you measure square, that is the bottom of the arrow. To stay even the nock set, if you nock below the nock set, must be at least the thickness of the nock above level. A bit above that is usually even better.
Yes, that's why I mention the nock is around 3/16". Still think I'm riding a little low on the string.
I like to start real high with nock set and work down until it goes away. If I use a clicker I can never fully get the nock high tear to go away.
Are you canting when you shoot or straight up and down. I suspect your spine might be weak.
I thought a touch weak spine also. I notice the tear in the tape is right out on the shelf edge.
Just for giggles ,if you can, play with the the head weight. Couldn't hurt.
As for the nock point I'm usually 1/2 above center.
Also if it's a new to you bow , watch your grip on the bow , make sure you're not using too high of a wrist position. I've had that cause high tears as it affects the limb bend.
Too weak you say, huh? I can go lighter in point weight. I'm going to order a test kit from three rivers today. I would have though too stiff myself. Thanks for the ideas!
-Jeremy :coffee:
Besides nock high how is arrow flight ? Nock high can be several things I believe, including too low a nock point ( my past says place the nock set at 1/2" to 7/8" above the bottom of the square. High end if shooting three under, lower end with split.)
Or. At anchor you are putting pressure on the arrow due to high elbow position or torqued finger position. Of course there may be others as well.
With those specs and my current bows, those arrows would be too weak. No idea how they are with yours.
Tear on the edge of shelf may mean you are to stiff and the shaft is bouncing off the shelf showing the nock high. Some times with nock high you have to find where it is a minimum and go with that as some bows/shooters always show nock high.
Try it with cock feather in.
I've shot the arrow with the cock feather in. Not sure if the rub is any less or not. However I still get a nock high tear.
Too stiff, too weak?! Oh the insanity! Lol, I'm ordering a test kit and will mess around with that.
Thank you all for the suggestions. I'll le tyou all know what I come up with.
-Jeremy :coffee:
I would think those arrows are too weak. At 28"DL, your actual DW should be around 59#. I would start with 65-70's (or even 70-75's, depending on what style bow it is) for that draw weight, shaft length, and point weight.
Bisch
Well, I'm happy to announce that I was able to make a simple adjustment of nock height and that seems to have been the ticket. I'd have to double check but I believe I moved up the string to 9/16". I posted a picture of the results. Keep in mind the top tear was me and a bad release. I should have let down!
Thank you all for your opinions. The tear on the tape has also gone away. I also think I need to play with the brace height a twist or two to rid myself of that diagonal tear. But I'm in a much better place I feel.
-Jeremy :coffee:
(http://i.imgur.com/BUpFbbU.jpg)
Getting there my friend...
:thumbsup:
Good enough for government work. Nice going, buddy!
I have a bow that was driving me nuts with nock high arrow flight.
Tried nock height from 3/8 clear up to 1.0 with the same flight.
Finally twisted the lower nock point down a bunch so that there was no way it could affect the arrow.
(was using one above and below).
And all of the sudden perfect flight was achieved and fine tuning put it right where my other bows like around 9/16.
I have no idea why, as I use a double nock on all my other bows, but this one does not like them!
That's very interesting batbow. I too use a double nock. Maybe I'll twist that one out of the way and see what happens. Thanks for the suggestion.
-Jeremy :coffee:
QuoteOriginally posted by batbow:
I have a bow that was driving me nuts with nock high arrow flight.
Tried nock height from 3/8 clear up to 1.0 with the same flight.
Finally twisted the lower nock point down a bunch so that there was no way it could affect the arrow.
(was using one above and below).
And all of the sudden perfect flight was achieved and fine tuning put it right where my other bows like around 9/16.
I have no idea why, as I use a double nock on all my other bows, but this one does not like them!
With a double nock point you have to be careful that the nock doesn't get pinched between the two nocking points as you draw back the sting and it decreases the actual space.
Mint,
Yes, I realize that I need clearance.
Basically by the time the arrow was flying correctly, there was no point in the second nock point, had over 3/16 in clearance on the nock.
So I just removed it.
After I fine tuned the location of the upper nock I tried moving the lower nock back up, as soon as it got to around 3/16 or a little less it made the arrows fly nock low.
This is a fairly short bow, at 56 in, but I use a double nock on two other bows that are 54 and 52 in long with no issue.
Most bows I have owned tune up very similar to each other, but this one had that one little strangeness!
I do appreciate all the info on this forum, it has been very helpful!