I can't seem to get a 340 to tune but 400s with 150 up front are like lazers. I am only at 480 gr total. I have tried weight tubes and it doesn't seem to fly as well and trimmer cord rattles. Any other suggestions. I would like to hunt elk with this set up but it is a little to light i am afraid. Maybe not. All the elk I have shot have been 650+. I don't know what 480 will do at 30 yards.
I would think 480 should be enough??
What is your current set up?
Do not confuse spine rating with total arrow weight. Spine rating is ONLY stiffness of the arrow shaft and is NOT totally related to arrow shaft weight. You can find heavier shafts with the .400 spine rating. Look at "Heavy Hunters," Or "Full Metal Jacket" shafts. To name just 2. There are others too.
Arrow weight and spine are not NECESSARILY related.
Arne
"Heavy Hunters", a friend of mine uses the 500 spine from his 45# Bob Lee recurve. With brass insert and his broadheads his arrows weight close to 550 grains. You can see spine is not the necessary factor.
A light 340 with 100 grain brass insert? Would you consider an aluminum shaft? Not trying to start a debate on Aluminum vs carbon but if you are wanting to maintain stiffness but increase arrow weight a 2117 might work.Or as others have said heavy hunters. Sorry if I am out of my element here.
Thanks for the input guys. I will try a heavy hunter. I don't know why I didn't think of that. It fly's so good that I am reluctant to try another brand of shaft. I know spine ratings should be the same across the board no matter what brand w but I have seen drastic differences in bare shafts that were the same spine.
My set up is the gt trad 400, 150 up front full length. I pull 32" on tolke whip. 53@32". My long draw adds a lot of speed. But speed inst everything.
Thanks again
Doug
How much head weight did you try with the 340?
250.
53# @ 32". Is equivalent to more like a 63# bow in terms of efficiency. I if it was me I'd shoot at least 630 grains. I would think a 480 grain arrow would be loud and the bow wouldn't feel all that great.
I often add 7" of shrink tubing to the shaft under the fletching on 1820 aluminum to increase spine and add weight to the arrow. Also makes it easier to fit fletching to the shaft. If you added 50 grains of tubing to the tail end of the shaft you can add 50 grains to the front, increasing the arrow weight 100 grains. Just a thought.
It's pretty quiet.
Try 100 gr brass insert. My whips love them. Can send you one to try.
Won't an extra 100 grains up front weaken it to much
How bout wood??
QuoteOriginally posted by DKdc:
250.
Why not keep increasing head weight until it (340) flys straight? You may or may not like it, but at least you'd know where it was at... if its stiff, you arent going to hurt it by adding more.... be adventurous, what have you got to lose?
Nope. I use them plus 100gr insert on my glue on 160 gr heads on my 340's. Worth a try for an easy fix. For my bows in your weight range I use 50gr insert +100gr broadhead insert on 160gr STOS. Carbons can take a lot of front weight and still fly good. Bob Morrison got me on to this a long time ago.
True maybe I will add a 100 grain insert to the 340 and see what happens.I break a lot of arrows removing inserts.
It's tough to find wood 32.5" I know Forrester makes them but I pretty invested in carbon right now. Thanks for all the great feedback.
True maybe I will add a 100 grain insert to the 340 and see what happens.I break a lot of arrows removing inserts.
It's tough to find wood 32.5" I know Forrester makes them but I pretty invested in carbon right now. Thanks for all the great feedback.
Try Big Jim's melt works great and easy to remove the inserts.
Well changed out the aluminum with brass. I added 100 grain brass inserts to two shafts and nothing really changed. The 340 still is impacting stiff. Pretty much in the exact same place. Just for fun I took the 250 off and screwed on a 150 and it flew almost sideways. I will try a heavier 400 shaft. Dangit. I got a pile of 300 & 340 shafts that won't work.
Thanks for the help
400's should work.
Lone hunter, you think 480 is to light for an elk.
Actually after further testing I put a 300 grain field point on a 340 with a aluminum insert and it flew really well. Does the insert not change spine. It trued it out more than a 250 grain head with a 100 grain brass insert. That is wierd it's 50 grains lighter
Before you get rid of those shafts, measure the inside diameter of your arrows. Then go to the pet store, and look for fish tank tubing. It's plastic, and I believe it comes in multiple diameters. You can buy that pretty cheap, and cut lengths of it to fit inside your arrow shafts. It'll be quiet, and will add a lot of weight!
480 grains is enough for elk, velocity has something to do with penetration too ya know. All the years we never weighed our arrows and most of the time we got complete penetration sometimes a pass through just using 125 grain broadheads.
Also, just increasing the total arrow weight versus increasing tip weight can greatly decrease FOC. I shoot full length GT Hunter's which aren't a real heavy GPI with 250 up front and my arrow weight is 560ish grains. Maybe you could shorten up your existing arrows and add more tip weight
I just was in this same boat. I use paracord. It's quite too. Didn't like weight tubes cuz of noise. I was at 435 gr and with paracord I'm at 515 now. And cheap. 100 ft of chord is like $8 bucks and will do a ton of arrows and you have emergeny chordage if ever needed.
I shoot 32 also. Weird things happen at longer draw lengths. My carbon options are full length Carbon Express Heritage 250 & 350's frontloaded with GT weights to an overall weight of 620 & 670 grains. I shoot 125 tips and bhs. My bow is 55@32.
Just had some woods built that are footed and 33" bop. They average 720-730 overall. Just my .02 cents.
Scott.
Where are you at in Colorado?
I run close to the same setup just a little shorter on DL, 400 with 125 grain tips and the 340 with a 100 grain brass and same 125 tip both bare shaft perfect for me on a full length arrow for me.
Adding the weight in front of the shaft has more influence than weight behind the front of the shaft,as you've seen.
If you add full length weight like para cord inside the shaft,it will drastically stiffen the dynamic spine and you will have to increase point weight and re=tune.It doesn't matter how flexible the rope or tubing is,it will change the tune.
I would search out heavier,.400 gr shafts and tune them up.Even then,you might need a different point weight than you have now.
You could also try 300gr glue-on points with steel adapters on your 340's.