Can you guys tell me how the process on mounting two blades are so they fly like my field points. How do you change the orientation
I like mine horizontal , so they don't start steering the arrow while they are in paradox .
I just set up some wood arrows today for turkey hunting with Zwickey Eskilites. I shoot w/ the cock feather of the arrow facing away from the bow. My broadheads are mounted flat, in line with the cock feather, not up and down.
Hope that makes sense.
Brian
QuoteOriginally posted by nhbuck1:
Can you guys tell me how the process on mounting two blades are so they fly like my field points. How do you change the orientation
If you setup is tuned well, broadhead orientation should not make any difference! I position mine so that they are horzontal when I am canted at full draw. The only way they will "fly like your field points" is if the tune is correct.
Bisch
Amen Bisch, sound advice.
Make sure they spin true, unless the heads are 5" wide they shouldn't affect your vision or their flight.
What Bisch said! If you can't get your arrow to fly straight you either have a misaligned broadhead or improperly spined arrow. I prefer for 2 blades to be mounted horizontally as vertical alignment messes with my sight picture.
I set broadheads up so the arrow spins true on my fingertip. If I feel a wobble I adjust it until it spins true. By doing it this way the broadhead ends up in about every position. I've never noticed a difference in flight. When I use 2 blade broadheads they are usually original Grizzles.
I position mine so that when I cant the bow to the usual position, they are horizontal. I agree that it shouldn't matter with a properly tuned arrow.
What Bisch said for sure.
Yep tune is the trick for sure. I like my two blades in line with the cock feather as I tend to gap off of the point and it's the only way I can see it.
Mike
What exactly do you mean " the process" ? Are you asking about glue on heads or screw in heads ?
If glue on, I get the point taper as even as I can to begin and then heat up hot melt glue. I myself like the lower temperature melt glue sticks. I heat up the glue stick and put a fair amount onto the point taper, making sure to rub it over most of the surface, hen I insert the taper into the broadhead. I usually mark the shaft with a dot which identifies what "up" is for the arrow as it is on the bow. I also align my heads so that they sit horizontally as you are aiming.
I then heat the ferrule of the head slightly and then push the point into the edge of my workbench, twisting or spinning the arrow to distribute the glue and seat it fully. Glue squeezes put, don't worry.
I immediately spin the arrow and watch for broadhead wobble. I do this by simply positioning the arrow vertically onto a hard surface and.. spin the arrow.
If there is no discernible wobble ( watch the nock / arrow interface) then set it aside to cool and harden / set. If there is I try to move the head in a direction that takes away the wobble. Once in a while I have to do it all over again cause that head is just difficult. Make sure you use enough glue.
If it is a screw in head it is much easier, kinda. Screw it into the adaptor... To align the head vertically etc. screw in a heavy field tip, heat the tip ( so the heat distribution melts the glue on the insert) and remove the insert. Cool. Then screw the broadhead back onto the insert, apply glue and push into the shaft, aligning it as you wish. Generally ( not always) it is much straighter from the start this way just because of fit.
If you go to the search function,you can get a lot of opinions from a multitude of perspectives...some fromguys who have moved on from these sites, but were those who we listened to.
All in the know will tell you tune is key to broad head flight. Then there is truing the broad head to the shaft,if the head is not true,your tune is damaged. No magic, just taking the time to do it all carefully
X5 with Bisch. I've never worried about orientation. If it's hitting where my field points do, nothing to worry about.
So still spin heads even big there screw ins? Should stay on dot correct?
I agree with Bisch. If well tuned, the orientation doesn't matter.
Yes...Still spin it.... just to see if it is on straight. Less you can do about it, but you still can, and you still need to know.
I like them horizontal just they they don't get in my sight picture
I had an idea one time that I'd mount my broadheads vertical so I could use the blade as a sight pin, of sorts. My groups were pretty wide. Went horizontal (in line with the cock feather) and I started taking chunks of feather off my first arrow with the second arrow. I have a theory of why but it's really just experience. Some of you say that it shouldn't matter. But for me, it does.
I shoot carbons on my hunting setup and I've found that I don't always need the blade in line with the cock feather, per se. But it must be as close as 90 degrees off the string as possible. Angles in between widen my groups considerably. Maybe it's all in my head. But I'll stick with it until my groups show otherwise.